Bar rail closing tool

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Hi,

I brought this tool and after the first use it broke - the threads on the tensioning bar stripped. After reading the reviews it seems I’m not the only one that has this exact problem.

Do you have any recommendations for one that is quality and reliable?
https://www.chainsawspares.com.au/c...p0AZ89ad1xud5QHPvna8-2dX9X6nDTikaAjShEALw_wcB

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Just found another one that says “Piltz” that’s a big red flag for some reason… I wonder why?!
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/362643862187

 

[atpchas]

I had one of those. Gave it away. Found that a BFH, chisel, and feeler gauge was more effective by an order of magnitude. YMMV.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I had one of those. Gave it away. Found that a BFH, chisel, and feeler gauge was more effective by an order of magnitude. YMMV.

I closed rails earlier today with my bench vice, a hammer and a wide flat blade screw driver. I then trued the rails again and it worked - saw cut nicely and straight, but it’s not ideal / the rails are not uniform in width all the way along the length of the bar. Hoped a quality closer would work more evenly

 

[atpchas]

My feeling is that by the time you are resorting to solutions like this, any additional use you can get is essentially a bonus. I don't expect such bars to perform or last like they were new. Hell, they're likely worn out and were never intended to provide that extra bit of service.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Are you not the same Tom that slams anyone buying Chinese parts for saws- but goes and buys a bar rail closer from one of the biggest retailers of Chinese saw parts and merchandise in Australia, only to find it does not perform up to any kind of expectation? Maybe you have to keep looking for one that is not only close to Stihl orange in colour- but has the Stihl brand stamped in it somewhere?

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Are you not the same Tom that slams anyone buying Chinese parts for saws- but goes and buys a bar rail closer from one of the biggest retailers of Chinese saw parts and merchandise in Australia, only to find it does not perform up to any kind of expectation? Maybe you have to keep looking for one that is not only close to Stihl orange in colour- but has the Stihl brand stamped in it somewhere?

Na, I don’t slam anyone for spending their money however they like, but I recommend against it and avoid it myself whenever I possibly can (for this exact reason) but no other retailer in the country sells anything better. Any idea of anyone in NZ offering a good version? Have you got one that works well? Looks like I have to get one from the states probably..

As for Stihl colours / logo, you know me well

 

[Del_]

I've had what looks like that same tool for a couple of decades now.

What I use is a short section of rail road track and a 3lb. deadblow hammer. I use a short section of chain to check the width and when I get it to narrow I put the bar in a vice and using a hammer and screwdriver to open the rail to the correct width.

I've also had a little luck swinging two 3lb hammers, one on each side of the bar when the bar in in the vice.

A part of the problem may be that the wear isn't even inside the groove being more worn right at the chain/bar interface and less so the deeper in the grove it goes.

I remove all side burrs and file the top profile of the bar before any closing efforts begin.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I've had what looks like that same tool for a couple of decades now.

What I use is a short section of rail road track and a 3lb. deadblow hammer. I use a short section of chain to check the width and when I get it to narrow I put the bar in a vice and using a hammer and screwdriver to open the rail to the correct width.

I've also had a little luck swinging two 3lb hammers, one on each side of the bar when the bar in in the vice.

A part of the problem may be that the wear isn't even inside the groove being more worn right at the chain/bar interface and less so the deeper in the grove it goes.

I remove all side burrs and file the top profile of the bar before any closing efforts begin.

Thanks Del, it sounds like a hammer is probably the best way forward for now, unless of course you want to sell the rail closer you have

 

[Del_]

Thanks Del, it sounds like a hammer is probably the best way forward for now, unless of course you want to sell the rail closer you have

Sometimes I think it is the filing down of the top and bottom of the bar that is doing the most good. I've never filed one so much that the groove needed deepening. Sorry but I'll be keeping my seldom used orange bar rail closer for now.

 

[J D]

I've seen a few home made ones that were decent. I made one out of an old scissor jack & a couple of old bearings... It's ugly & bulky, but it only took about half an hour to make, cost me nothing & works surprisingly well.

 

[tomalophicon]

I have used this method with success but instead of an anvil just used the top of the vise jaws.

 

[Canyon Angler]

I would just make one with my welder. You need a welder, Tom!

 

[J D]

I have used this method with success but instead of an anvil just used the top of the vise jaws.

As have I...
It's advisable to de-bur the bar before hammering on it to prevent burs chipping off

 

[Fatherwheels]

A hammer and something solid to hit against, that's all you need.
Older bars are likely worn too, so won't provide much extra service life, you need good eyesight
too, to measure the gap, it only takes one bump on the inside of the rail to send the chain into
a wobble when traveling at speed, this causes vibrations and never works too well, this happens
in worn bars, you won't be able to get a high spot on a tight new bar as any high spot will grab the
chain in that event, no wobble just a grab, and that is no good either.

Either way, hammering or pressing with a tool wont help the riveting situation, you could stress /
loosen them slightly and de laminate the bar, and your back to the beginning again, a bar that does
not guide the chain straight.
Success can be had, but it depends on a lot of factors.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Thanks everyone I really appreciate the input. Here is a 2 minute video update

 

[Mad Professor]

Well it's putting lipstick on a pig but............Get a high quality bolt ( Grade 8/10.9) of same thread as tensioning bar, and weld a handle onto it, or use a wrench

Of course, then the threads in the closer itself may strip...........so you could weld a grade 8/10.9 nut onto the closer. If you get to that point also upgrade to larger threads on both parts.

It will an adventure, like getting those saws made out of recycled beer can to run properly........

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Well it's putting lipstick on a pig but............Get a high quality bolt ( Grade 8/10.9) of same thread as tensioning bar, and weld a handle onto it, or use a wrench

Of course, then the threads in the closer itself may strip...........so you could weld a grade 8/10.9 nut onto the closer. If you get to that point also upgrade to larger threads on both parts.

It will an adventure, like getting those saws made out of recycled beer can to run properly........

Hey mate, the bolt I used says 8.8, I’m not too sure on grading? I think the jig threads will strip before these?

 

[huskihl]

Hey mate, the bolt I used says 8.8, I’m not too sure on grading? I think the jig threads will strip before these? View attachment 922740

8.8 is about like Grade 5. Plenty for what you want

 

[Mad Professor]

Tom, that's = to our grade 5. Huskihl beat me to it.

nuts and bolts, nuts and bolts, WE GOT SCREWED!!!