Chopwood
ArboristSite Guru
Ask me about my scar, and the four sheets of 3/4 plywood I saw a 1/2 inch chain go through.
Now Chris,
Are you making fun of me for trying to "shave down" a chain for my bike saw?
I know that rock wall 300' away didn't think it was funny.:jawdrop:
It don't scare me, but as soon as it fires my respect for that monster sure gets high.
I can't remember anyone ever calling me "The Bomb" before.
Andy
Ask me about my scar, and the four sheets of 3/4 plywood I saw a 1/2 inch chain go through.
Honestly, I don't know anyone who runs a bikesaw that hasn't learned respect for it the hard way. Some have been luckier than others but until you turn one into a shotgun it doesn't really register.
I have had nightmares about hitting a someone with a 150 mph 5 pound 6 foot string of razor blades. Do it once and the show will probably be dead for good.
Just try to keep safety in mind for every step of your build and whenever you run it. The operator area, front (a football field in length), and bar side (for around 20 feet) are the most dangerous areas. When you build the chain guard, keep in mind the bottom side too, thats what protects your boys. The top of the guard is to protect your right wing and head. Not much to offer for protection when the chain leaves the saw except making sure there aren't people in the way.
In this video there were people in the "shot zone" before the run. Didn't hurt Andy one bit to tell them to move.http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/redprospector/?action=view¤t=HotSawAndy.flv
The wood in that video looks really high...
Those harvester bars will work just fine, stick with the 16h .063 gauge. This is a harvester bar (404x63) with full comp square chisel chainsaw chain on Redprospectors KX250. I have used this same bars on the last four or five builds. Dont go nuts thinning the chain like you do for race chainsaws, Andy would be the first to tell you.
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