Bars used for Hot and Bike saws?

[Chopwood]

Ask me about my scar, and the four sheets of 3/4 plywood I saw a 1/2 inch chain go through.

 

[romeo]

Honestly, I don't know anyone who runs a bikesaw that hasn't learned respect for it the hard way. Some have been luckier than others but until you turn one into a shotgun it doesn't really register.

I have had nightmares about hitting a someone with a 150 mph 5 pound 6 foot string of razor blades. Do it once and the show will probably be dead for good.


Just try to keep safety in mind for every step of your build and whenever you run it. The operator area, front (a football field in length), and bar side (for around 20 feet) are the most dangerous areas. When you build the chain guard, keep in mind the bottom side too, thats what protects your boys. The top of the guard is to protect your right wing and head. Not much to offer for protection when the chain leaves the saw except making sure there aren't people in the way.

In this video there were people in the "shot zone" before the run. Didn't hurt Andy one bit to tell them to move.http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/redprospector/?action=view&current=HotSawAndy.flv

 

[romeo]

Now Chris,
Are you making fun of me for trying to "shave down" a chain for my bike saw?
I know that rock wall 300' away didn't think it was funny.:jawdrop:
It don't scare me, but as soon as it fires my respect for that monster sure gets high.
I can't remember anyone ever calling me "The Bomb" before.

Andy

Your the BOMB Andy.

 

[romeo]

Ask me about my scar, and the four sheets of 3/4 plywood I saw a 1/2 inch chain go through.

Just DONT ask him to show it to you.

 

[Tzed250]

Honestly, I don't know anyone who runs a bikesaw that hasn't learned respect for it the hard way. Some have been luckier than others but until you turn one into a shotgun it doesn't really register.

I have had nightmares about hitting a someone with a 150 mph 5 pound 6 foot string of razor blades. Do it once and the show will probably be dead for good.


Just try to keep safety in mind for every step of your build and whenever you run it. The operator area, front (a football field in length), and bar side (for around 20 feet) are the most dangerous areas. When you build the chain guard, keep in mind the bottom side too, thats what protects your boys. The top of the guard is to protect your right wing and head. Not much to offer for protection when the chain leaves the saw except making sure there aren't people in the way.

In this video there were people in the "shot zone" before the run. Didn't hurt Andy one bit to tell them to move.http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/redprospector/?action=view&current=HotSawAndy.flv

The wood in that video looks really high...

 

[HolmenTree]

I built my hotsaw 25 years ago, last raced it seriously in 1997 and now have only given demos with it at fairs etc ever since. 1982 YZ 125 J liquid. with 42 mm carb.
Cannon made me a 28", 5" belly, 5/32" thick, .063 with an Oregon 2 7/8" roller tip. I bought out Sam Madsens last stock of those old roller noses [brand new in the package] in 1984. At 5/32" you can't get much thinner for a .063 . My smaller General 20" ,5" belly .050 is only 1/8"thick, I went to all the trouble to modify the .063 roller down to .050 just to keep that chain cutting nice and straight. General by far made the better bars too bad they went out of business.
Maybe a little too much info here even for 2008, but I have run since the 80s Oregon 72 AL cutters on a 76 LG chassis[76 LG was the old lightweight lowprofile 3/8 .050chain] and 72AL cutters on 75 LG[.063] chassis on all my racing saws . I'm experimenting right now with the discontinued 75 LGX rudder drive link chassis, should hold a nice straight track on the hotsaw.Sure would like to find some more of that pretty blue 1/2".

 

[redprospector]

The wood in that video looks really high...

It was!
You gotta cut it how they set it up though. As long as everyone has to cut the same height log it makes an even playing field.
You shoulda seen romeo single bucking on those high logs.

Andy

 

[cedarheaven]

Harvester Bar

I'm interesed in the Oregon roller nose bar but I would like to have 23" cutting. What lengths are these pictured or what lengths do you have available? I'm building a Parilla 140cc and will use the 404 semi-skip 63 gauge chain probably the new high profile Stihl chain just introduced. Thanks...

 

[youngbuck$]

Those harvester bars will work just fine, stick with the 16h .063 gauge. This is a harvester bar (404x63) with full comp square chisel chainsaw chain on Redprospectors KX250. I have used this same bars on the last four or five builds. Dont go nuts thinning the chain like you do for race chainsaws, Andy would be the first to tell you.
Login to a private Photobucket.com album

hey couldnt get your pics,but stoked to see another head from nm,we should network parts a bit.sure i could learn a bit from you' and do some mundane #### thats gotten old for ya. msg me man, lets get a beer and a load

 

[K&K sprocket]

bars and sprockets

I personally buy my bars from bar chain repair in oregon. I make my own spur sprocket that have been used by others on this web site with great success. The biggest problem with the pin sprockets is the chain lift, the spur sprocket does not do this.

 

[youngbuck$]

I'm not sure if this is the exact right thread for this but... I am running stihl bars and relinked stihl chains on my Pioneer hp65 (98cc) the problem was that I had to make custom washers or shims in order to get my studs to hold the bar tight, Are there conversion studs available or is there a particular, sprocket bar and chain suitable for race type results out of my old pioneer. I'm sure there is also an archive or info source on here that I have overlooked so any guidance on the subject much appreciated. the site has grown!