Base Gasket Delete Gone Wrong?

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i just tried to do this on my 038mag stihl. Cleaned everything up good, laid a bead of yamabond on the case and slapped the cylinder on there. Torqued the head bolts tight, then got a decent torque wrench and found out they were over torqued, so I brought them back down to factory specs. I let the yamabond and loctite setup on the bolts for 24 hr. Went to run it today and it idles like crap and wants to scream when the throttle is applied. I assume there’s an air leak, could there be something I didn’t do right?
I think I figured it out. Some of the sealer squeezed out inside the case in “globs” which looks like it could divert air/fuel mixture or block some of it all together. I’m going to rip all this crap out of there and go back with a gasket. I didn’t run the saw very much so it didn’t do a whole lot of damage, just a couple little scratches on the piston, but I see how it could have if I left it alone.
 
When I read " laid a bead", I knew you were doomed for issues. Put a drop on your finger and smear it on real thin on the case and cylinder. Even that is probably over kill. You're squishing two flat pieces of metal against each other, how much sealer could possibly fit between them?
 
Thanks for the advice. I’m going to do the gasket thing probably and coat both sides with a thin layer of seal, since the gasket is already coming, then torque the screws down with loctite I just don’t trust in my abilities well enough to do a delete yet. Maybe a few years down the road if I keep messing with this stuff. I’ve only got two chainsaws now down from 4, and a trimmer to get going before before spring.
 
Make sure it’s real clean. Smear a really thin coat on both surfaces. Be careful on reassembley to not make a mess. Tighten down bolts as tight as you can with a T handle.

You got this
 
Harley T is making a solid point. Have you checked the rest of the saw for air leaks? High idle, no response to carb settings, dies on throttle or runs away is classic air leak terrain. Could be a base gasket, but could be a seal, lose plug, cracked case, bad intake boot etc. You have to pressure test.

I like Threebond 1184 for deletes. It sets slow, so I have plenty of time to deal with piston rings and case alignment. I put on gloves, get a little wild with brake cleaner, blow it all dry and then put a super thin layer on both surfaces. I have two long threaded studs with flathead slots cut in the top that help align everything so there isn't much movement when the cylinder sets down. I tighten it up with a T handle and let it sit 24 hrs. Then pressure test.

The first few I did weren't all successful. Some failed a pressure test and had to be re-done. Acetone melts 1184 pretty well, clean it up, then try again. Watch for the case gasket sticking up (trim it down with a razor blade) and keep all oil off the mating surfaces.

Most clamshells have to be glued, so it pays to get good at the process. I think you should try again. Yota has it right, you got it.
 
Soapy water is your friend. Easiest way to visually find a leak. 2nd is spray the running saw with carb cleaner around suspected areas.

Doing a proper vacuum/pressure leak test can be quite involved in properly plugging up the intake and exhaust.

If you decide to do a leak test, you can get by with plugging up the intake/exhaust with rubber pads tightly held in place (need extra hands - at least 3 total), and create pressure by blowing into a tube connect to the impulse line. You will still need a gauge and a t-fitting. An adequate gauge only will set you back ~$15 or so.
 
Joy_Harmon_Cool_Hand_Luke_01.gif
Soapy water is your friend. Easiest way to visually find a leak. 2nd is spray the running saw with carb cleaner around suspected areas.

Doing a proper vacuum/pressure leak test can be quite involved in properly plugging up the intake and exhaust.

If you decide to do a leak test, you can get by with plugging up the intake/exhaust with rubber pads tightly held in place (need extra hands - at least 3 total), and create pressure by blowing into a tube connect to the impulse line. You will still need a gauge and a t-fitting. An adequate gauge only will set you back ~$15 or so.
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/att...541-car-wash-joy_harmon_cool_hand_luke_01.gif
 

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