Basic climbing tips

[Beeboo]

Hello to all,
I am in need of some info, if possible.

I have a basic set-up--rope, caribeaners, harness, etc......

I am trying to trim the dead wood & hanging limbs on the tree's in my yard at home, but have not figured out the best way to climb the tree's that have no branches to use to climb.

I am interested in finding out what anyone would suggest, besides spiked shoes, to use for getting up the tree.

I have ran into a site that suggested a large rope with knots tied in it to climb the tree----how do you get the rope through the loop with the knots already tied in the rope??? or, How do you tie it in the tree with the knots already in the rope??

I tried it with a figure eight follow through knot, but could not get the rest of the rope through the loop with the knots in the rope. I am guessing that if I made the loop bigger, it would work, but I woud be interested in information from someone who has done it before.

Also, as a life line--I am planning on using climbing rope (arborist?) (bought it at a climbing store) with a caribeaner with a bachman knot around both ropes. Is this safe?? The guy at the store suggested it & I have tried it out with decent results--seems safe to me.

As you can see, I am new to this, have done trim jobs with no rope, but would rather be safe while working in the tree.

Any help\suggestions would be greatly appreciatted!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks in advance.

 

[sgreanbeans]

Sounds like me a while back!, if you are in the tree service then youll understand what time and pain means, if not, hire a pro, ive been in this for a while and im am just now learning to climb, and im being trained. to go and try and figure it out for your self takes alot of time and can mean alot of pain, maybe even death, the rope you bought is probley a static line, this is not a tree rope, it has no tolerance for bark and heat. buy the time you go out and buy every thing you could have had somone come over and do it for the same price while your sitting inside and watching tv! by no means am i a pro at climbing, but i do know the cost and the skill it requires to do it safley. if you are in the bus, sub it out our find someone to show you the ropes! (pun intended) hope this helps

 

[monkeypuzzle]

Good Luck!

 

[treeclimber165]

I just checked, and Sherrill Arborist Supply has several good books available (link at top of this screen). Tree Climber's Companion ($15) and Ropes, Knots and Hitches ($12) are absolute minimum requirements. Anything by Shigo is good, but can be a tough read sometimes. Greenbean is right, though. Either hire a climber or go to work for a tree service so you can see with your own eyes how it is done. Compare what you see to what you read in the books.
Also, climbing trees is only half of it. If you don't know what to do when you get up there, you don't need to go up. Modern Arboriculture by Shigo or Tree Maintenance 7th edition by P. Pyrone might be a good starting point.
Good Luck!

 

[treeman82]

it sounds as though you may wish to call in a guy with a bucket truck.

 

[Beeboo]

Ok--I want to start by saying, thank you to TREECLIMBER165 for the info provided.

As to the rest-----I figured this is what I was going to get as a reply. I do not have all day to sit here & type the experience I have had in a tree, but I am new to climbing tree's without many limbs--seems like everybody else is too.

So, when I get the response, hire a professional (which I knew was coming from people in the business)--it is not practical & the cost would be outrageous.

So, when you tell me to hire a prof.--I am assuming that you think I have a Money tree in my back yard that I can pick as much as I need to pay for the job.

I have heard the quote before about buying the equipment would be cheaper than hiring someone on other requests for info & this is DEAD WRONG!!!!!!!!!

Besides, I already have most of the equipment needed to do the job.

I would advise anybody wanting to do the job themselves, not to listen to anybody that says it is cheaper to hire a professional---IT IS NOT TRUE!!!!!!!!!!


I thought I asked a simple question: How do you get up the tree without GAFFS?????????? Equipment used??

At least TREECLIMBER165---gave me some kind of info on the books I should read---I thank You!!!

I can do it with the equipment that I have, but there has to be an easier way.

Anyway, I will wait for others to reply to my question.

Do not mean to take shots at anybody, but I am assuming, if you cannot answer the question, you must always use gaffs to climb, which causes more damage to the tree than you are fixing--or--you do not climb at all.

On top of that---a person wanting to do his own job, does not want to hear: "Hire a professional". Don't you think I have got quotes already?

I am looking for people who would like to help with 1st hand information, not just voice their opinions.

Thank You.

 

[Chain Gang]

Hi Beeboo,

Glad to see you stand up to the smartalecks. My guess is that you want to learn and that is why you wrote to this forum.

Treeclimber165's suggestion about Tree Climber's Companion book is the best thing to do. Read that book cover to cover. Then, you will know enough to ask more specific questions.

First, you'll probably need a throw bag and some slick line. I have used rock climbing ropes before. They aren't nearly as durable as arborist ropes but they work okay. The main thing is to use a rope that has dynamic stretch. Usually about 4% by length. Because it doesn't stretch enough, a static line will hurt you if you fall while on it.

If at all possible, get an arborist tree saddle. A rock climbing harness will work, but it is very inconvenient and uncomfortable.

If you are fit, you can climb fairly well using a Blake's hitch while climbing your rope by foot-locking. If the tree is short, you can use a Blake's hitch and climb by pulling with your hands and body thrusting. If the tree is tall, or, if you are not very fit, then you will want a pair of ascenders to climb with.

You will want to have some sort of safety lanyard as a backup device and to allow you to re-direct your climbing line while in the tree.

You need to wear a hardhat, especially if there is dead wood in the tree. Eye protection is always a good idea. Never, ever work alone, no matter how good you are. For climbing,I like cotton gloves that have some rubber on the palms. Look on Sherrill's website to see all of this stuff.

Hopefully, you can do all of your trimming with a hand saw. Using a chain saw in a tree adds another set of safety issues to the already very hazardous job of tree climbing.

It is usually safer to cut smaller pieces of wood than trying to bring down the whole large piece in one cut. Unless the area around the tree is fairly open, removing large pieces often requires rigging to safely lower the wood. This is another area that can really get you into trouble unless you AND your crew know what they are doing.

Try to always have a second rope in place as a backup in case the saw cuts your line or the limb that you line is over breaks, etc.

Seriously, go read Tree Climber's Companion and come back with more questions. You now know enough to get yourself seriously into trouble. Please continue to learn so that you will be able to get yourself out of a jam, because, it will definitely happen fairly often, especially in the beginning.

Good Luck!

 

[sgreanbeans]

please moderator i must reply!
1. i cost me about 1000.00 to buy the climbing equip i have( including a new saw)
2. I you already know why ask?
3. if your tree is gonna cost more than 1000.00 to have a pro trim it, then you should stay out of the tree or get another bid!
4. Average hopital bill for broken bones is about 1500.00
5. Average funeral is about 5000...

you get the point
not trying to be smart...maybe i am! but i dont want to see any body get hurt. if you knew you were going to get this response why post?

 

[lhampton]

Hi Beebo,

I've been lurking for awhile, I had to join up so that I could reply to your post.

I would try to persuade you not to try to do the work yourself, if I thought I'd have any chance of success.

I pretty much taught myself to climb with rope and saddle so I think I have a fair idea of what your up against. Beg, borrow, or buy what ever book, video, or manual you can and study. Find someone who is experienced and watch them, talk with them. See if they can help teach you. You have the time, that tree isn't going anywhere. This is what I did. I can tell you from experience, when you get up in a tree and your only security is a half inch rope and lanyard, you better know what your doing with it.

If you take your time and learn the right/safe way now, it will be a positive experience for you. If you go out half cocked, you may not come back.

Practice in a small tree until you are familiar and confident in your performance. Pay attention to detail. The best, most important thing I can tell you; don't second guess yourself. If something feels wrong, if you get a funny feeling in your belly, stop and re-evaluate the situation.

Best of luck to you.

lhampton

 

[Beeboo]

Chain Gang & L. Hampton---Thank You for your posts.
The info provided will be very helpful.

I will be placing an order for the The Tree Climber's Companion book A.S.A.P + I am in the process of trying to find a professional climber in my area to watch & learn.

I have looked at many sites today--pretty much all day long, trying to study as much as possible.

I stilll cannot figure out the following: double line asending with a Blake's hitch using footlocking--I understand how to footlock.

The question that I need answered is as follows: do you tie the blake's hitch into\around both ropes? or one?

I figure I am missing something here, if you tie onto one rope only, you will fall on your rear. The only other option would be to tie the other end to the harness?

Also, I have a set-up for a Bachman knot used with a caribeaner as an asender wrapped around both ropes---how does this differ from the Blake's Hitch?

I thank both of you for your help & concern.

Now---on to the Jacka** that persists to view his opinion where it is not wanted.

You obviously cannot read---I have 9 tree's to work on--2 to drop, 7 to trim--some bigger than others.

As far as you spending a G on your climbing equipment with saw----good for you. I already had the saw from all the dead wood in my yard needing to be cut up + the work I already did---saw price is not included.

As far as the hospital\funeral cost---I have insurance--will not cost me a DIME!

As far as why did I post: because I knew someone out there would help, but I knew some smartasses were going to tell me to hire a prof. because they think everybody is dumb & cannot do the job themselves.

Last count, I have 14 tree's that need to be maintained--seems like constantly, so the charge is a one time fee. What do I do next year when I need more trimming--Hire another prof.

By the time I am done paying for the work to get done (as long as I am in this house), I could buy 3 climbing set-ups.

Besides, I have relatives that need some work done for them.
So, the time spent learning will more than be worth the effort & cost incurred in the long run. I am sure they will be happy to pay me back for the equipment to do the job.

Look at it this way---at least I am asking, shows that I am worried about safety, or I would just go to work.

I do have an idea of how much danger will be involved with this job & therefore the need for help, but you are just frustrating me at the current time.

So, if you cannot help, go bother someone else.



Thank You to those that are helping & any further assistance would be greatly appreciatted in the future.

 

[sgreanbeans]

well im sorry i botherd you, ok you want a tip,
the blake goes on the rope side not connected to you, you should get a split tail to tie it with. it works very well. make sure you leave enough remove after your blake to tie a saftey knot. this will prevent to friction hitch from comong apart. this is what i use, and i like it, however im sure some of they other guys have different ways that work as well, if not better

 

[treeman82]

the guy that does my small pruning for me he footlocks with a prusick loop. no blake hitch, prusik loop. when he gets up there he ties in with the blake. you will need a throw ball for this with lets say 150 feet of slick line. it takes some practice to get the line up there 75 feet, or 60 feet into the crotch you want it in. then its just a matter of getting up there by footlocking. good luck and i hope you dont wind up getting hurt.

 

[Toddppm]

Don't take it so personally , these people are trying to look out for you:angel:
I wouldn't recommend using a blakes hitch to footlock, supposed to use a prusik around both lines ascending(never descending) . You can use a Blakes to ascend if you're body thrusting. Best bet is to read The tree climber s companion 10 times and even bring it up the tree if you have to(something to read when you get tired ) If you don't get your knots right you'll wish you could bounce like this guy

 

[rborist1]

:Eye:

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Wow, talk about stiring up a hornets nest!

I gotta agree with the rest, it is a risky biz we are in.

Doing a footlock off a blakes or such is very risky if you dont have a backup. many of the SRT climbers now are using double ascenders. One for ascention one for self belay. DRT and a prussick cord can send one burning to the ground. That is why all TCC climbers are on secodary belay!

 

[Sudo Tsuga]

If you do get a throw ball be sure and check your slick line mine had a melted splice about 50' from the throw ball and is still in the tree and that was last month. Get safty blue hi vee climbing line, with a soft splice and a split tail. But I agree with every one else here and would advise seeking profesional training, assistance before you enter the tree.

BTW: dont forget your saw!!! ha ha ha

 

[monkeypuzzle]

An EXPERT is a man who has made ALL the mistakes which CAN be made in a very narrow field.

Niels Henrik David Bohr

 

[Treebeard]

If you have a large number of trees to maintain you can probably do most reasonable work as an owner never leaving the ground. Buy an orchard ladder & a decent pole saw. With the 20' orchard ladder & 20' reach extending Hayauchi pole saw I use I can do limbs 30'-40' up & stay on the ladder. Even if you end up in the tree, secured at a safe point a good polesaw will minimize your risks by dancing too high & far out on limbs. The books are good, videos are better to see knots, etc, but hands-on is best. ArborMaster training has 2 day sessions on safe climbing, knots, etc., & training beats hospital bills. Even a basic rockclimbing course, especially the rapelling part, will help if you need cheap hands-on work to build confidence & skill. Most colleges have these as non-credit weekend course for $50 & up.

 

[treetrunk]

I think my reply to this post may be a bit belated, but this seems to be quite a sensitive subject for some, including myself. I respect you for wanting to care for own trees, and all the best of luck to you, I`m sure you`ve heard more than enough of how dangerous climbling is. But I don`t think just reading the Tree Climbers companion is going to turn you into an arborist, the only thing that can do that is training, experience and dedication, which also means more time than just reading a book and wearing second hand gear.

 

[Tom Dunlap]

This has been an interesting thread to read through. You asked a good question and after reading your follow ups too it seems to me that you have a good head on your shoulders. You seem more open minded than a few seasoned, full time climbers that I have talked to.

There are a lot of things that can be learned from books and also a person can be self-taught and quite compitent. With caution, and good books, I believe that a person could learn to get up and down trees safely. The Companion is the best book going for training. One venue that has not been mentioned are the ISA training videos. there is a lot of good informatino on those videos. The best part is that the skills are illustrated and narrated. Pause and rewind are good ways to learn. Taking some time to find an arborist to shadow or work under would be another excellent technique. The problem is finding someone who is worth learning from. You might not know enough now to be able to establish their credibility. If you want a referance to someone in your area, write to me off the forum. I would bet I could connect you with a good arbo nearby.

When you do go off the ground, leave the chainsaw on the ground. Get a good tri-cut blade handsaw. Never work alone. If you do any work on someone else's property you should consider purchasing liability insurance even if you are not being paid for the work. Learn "Low and Slow". Above all, when you are considering the risk of climbing trees there are two words that you should repeat: Widow and Orphan. Even if you don't have a wife and kids who depend on you, you do have a social and blood family that you belong to and you have an obligation to them to work as safely as possible.

Strong limbs and snug ropes!

Tom