Best firewood saw for scrounger

[bytehoven]

Man if an 18" bar is optimum for the MS361, all of the other lower CC saws should be running 14/16" bars max.

IMHO, the 361 is prefect with the 20" bar.

I would ask how many tanks of java have been thru windthrown's saw? The saw really starts to come alive just around the point you would want to do it's 1st tune up at 10 tanks.

One other thing I noticed, which I assume is not the issue with windthrown, it really easy to have the trigger just a little less than 100% depressed, and be running at a lower RPM than the saw is capable.

I agree if slicing up 30" rounds was going to be a regular event, something in a 80cc saw starts looking real purty. :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[nilzlofgren]

Thanks for the additional information.

A 60cc saw in a light, trim package will probably be your best bet for an all-around saw. The Stihl MS361 would be a great saw for your purposes, as would a Husqvarna 357xp. For a few bucks less (and a bit less in the performance department, too) Husqvarna's 359 would be another good choice.

EDIT: Upon further reflection, you might want to also consider the Stihl MS290/310 and Husqvarna 350/353. These are less powerful but are also less expensive, and should meet your needs pretty well, too. Of those four, only the 353 is a magnesium-cased pro-grade saw. The others have plastic engine cradles/oil tanks. The Stihls in this class are very heavy for their power output, but are renowned for their reliability nonetheless. The Husqvarna 350 is probably the best value in a 50cc saw that you are likely to find, and has a very good reputation for being a durable, handy, reliable $300 saw!...

If for some reason you go for the 290/310 option, you might as well get a 390. Same family, same weight, most power of the three.

 

[firebuckeye]

I am not sure exactly what chain I was set-up with but I know its not a skip. I have only ran 2 tankfulls so I guess it will gain power. I like the saw, I just would say its definately not to much saw. I figure if I stay in the wood burning buissness in acouple years I can by a bigger saw to put a bigger bar on and use an 18 on the 361. Besides where do you stop at..... how big? I still thbink it was a good purchase for me and Im sure I will become more efficient with it. I may not even want to mess with the big 30" rounds anyway.

 

[zemmo]

I am not sure exactly what chain I was set-up with but I know its not a skip. I have only ran 2 tankfulls so I guess it will gain power. I like the saw, I just would say its definately not to much saw. I figure if I stay in the wood burning buissness in acouple years I can by a bigger saw to put a bigger bar on and use an 18 on the 361. Besides where do you stop at..... how big? I still thbink it was a good purchase for me and Im sure I will become more efficient with it. I may not even want to mess with the big 30" rounds anyway.

If I had a 361 I'd probably put a 20" on it and leave the 24 on my 7900, and the 18 on my 5100. How are your sharpening skills? That comes into play real quick. A good sharp vegomatic will outcut the latest wondersaw if the latter has a dull chain.

I'd love to have a 361, it sounds like it might be the best saw for you, unless you're really strong and don't mind limbing with something larger and heavier.

 

[parrisw]

There aint no replacement for displacement!!! I was watching a guy cut up a Oak near my work the other day, and it was taking him forever, he was using a Stihl saw, I didn't ask what model, it looked like about a 24" bar, maybe his chain was dull or something, but each round took forever, and the rounds were only about 24", I was cutting up some 30"+ Oak a few weeks ago, and I was cutting way faster, but I was also using my big saw, which is a Husky394xp with a 33" bar. I am very happy I purchased that saw, cause last summer I was cutting some 40" Douglas fir, and its sure nice to have a big saw, with stuff like that. I take anything I can get for wood, doesnt' matter to me on the size, if its too big to lift, I use the Hydraulic splitter in the veritcal position. Looks like you got a good setup though, good luck with it.

 

[dingo]

I scrounge wood, trees already down. I wouldlike your guys opinion on one good saw that will be good for many years. I currently have a husqvarna 141 and feel it is to small. The diameter of logs varies, and some wood is already cut to length. What is one saw you guys would not leave home with out. Husky 359, 357?? I dont want to spend a fortune if not needed. I burn maybe 4 cord a year and thats it. I probably have no other use for the saw than cutting my own firewood. Thanks for every one who replies

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So if you are a scrounger why go the big expense for a saw. Why not a less expensive poulan or something like that. Yeah, I know fellows, but the way to wealth is how much you can keep, not how much you can make. I like scrounging, and my scrounging days was done with a 25 dollar Montgomery Wards saw.

 

[firebuckeye]

I actually am enjoying the scrounging and burning wood heat. I can afford gas but even if it was same price I would still cut and gather wood. And I like nice, well built tools / toys. I appreciate the quality of my tools. Thats why I went 361, I already had a husky 141 w/ 16 bar. The 361 is more fun.

 

[parrisw]

Yes I agree, I like good tools, and this to me is fun, its a hobby for me too, and the bonus is, it enables me to heat my house, and pay less money to Hydro!!! I figured at how much wood I burn, the amount I have spent on saws, and the splitter, and anything else, it will have paid for itself in 3-4 years, and I ve been burning for 3 years now. Wood is expensive to buy around here, anywhere from $150-$200 a cord delivered.

 

[firebuckeye]

Right now I am debating wether to go ahead and buy a splitter or just doit all by hand. Can you really make any time splitting by hand? This is my first year so I dont have much experience. It would be nice to split right there where I cut the wood. Any suggestions?

 

[Haywire Haywood]

If I were you I'd hand split a year or two before plunking money down on a splitter. You'll get a feel for how much wood you will actually use. If you're really only going to burn 4 cords/yr there's not much point in a splitter unless you have some disability or you're getting up in years to the point that you can't swing a maul. It's good exercise after all.

My 2c,
Ian

P.S. If I keep giving you my 2c, you're gonna have to start chipping in when I write the check for my mortgage.

 

[firebuckeye]

Funny, you have been very helpful! I am in healthy and in good shape soI should be able to split by hand. I was thinking of maybe selling some to next year. I dont know if its worth it or not though. Whats the best way to split 20+" rounds? That is about all I have so far. I ve been using a saw some but that is time consuming. Is there ant easier way then a wedge and axe? The little stuff is fun tosplit but the big stuff is why I was thinking splitter.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

On the big rounds instead of trying to split it down the middle, I shell pieces off the side. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't depending on the wood.

Ian

 

[046]

if you can swing the bucks... get a splitter.

as you stated, it's no problems splitting the little wood. it's being able to handle larger wood without having to cut. and of course how wood you are dealing with splits. some woods split so easy, even larger pieces fly apart.

so if your constantly handling larger/knurly wood, a splitter will save you some real time.

Funny, you have been very helpful! I am in healthy and in good shape soI should be able to split by hand. I was thinking of maybe selling some to next year. I dont know if its worth it or not though. Whats the best way to split 20+" rounds? That is about all I have so far. I ve been using a saw some but that is time consuming. Is there ant easier way then a wedge and axe? The little stuff is fun tosplit but the big stuff is why I was thinking splitter.

 

[zemmo]

Funny, you have been very helpful! I am in healthy and in good shape soI should be able to split by hand. I was thinking of maybe selling some to next year. I dont know if its worth it or not though. Whats the best way to split 20+" rounds? That is about all I have so far. I ve been using a saw some but that is time consuming. Is there ant easier way then a wedge and axe? The little stuff is fun tosplit but the big stuff is why I was thinking splitter.

You can split nearly anything by hand, kerf the really terrible stuff with a saw first. Don't forget about the set-up and clean-up time for the splitter, not to mention maintaining it, fueling it, transporting it, et al. And it's not a high performance motor like your saw, and not really especially fun, IMO. If you were doing 100 cords a year and selling it that's be an entirely different matter, but in your situation I'd just get some good mauls, sledges, wedges, and embark on your upper body training program.

 

[firebuckeye]

I cut some more today with my ms361 and it was walnut 24" diameter. And the saw seemed like a different beast. I had no trouble keeping the rpms up with a 24" bar and full chise chain. I dont know why I was having trouble a coupledays ago when cutting cherry???? I had a new chain on today and maybe the other one dulled really quick or something. Anthow I just wanted to give my 361 some credit back. It has plenty of power today and that was some of the bigger stuff in the wood lot. I dont know how oak will compare to walnut as far as bucking it to length but hopefully it will do as well.

 

[wdchuck]

Split by hand or machine

My personal experience:

Split 1/2 cord with a maul, was 10" ash, okay, I can do this , majority of wood in the pile to be split was elm, split 4 pieces. My hands, knuckles, up through my shoulders, everything was getting banged up, then at lunch my hands were shaking, not fun.

Went out and bought a splitter, nothing high end but horiz/vert, $900 out the door. Now, if it's too heavy/big to roll or dolly to the splitter, or in the field I just use the saw, going with the grain and it goes quick to a size I can handle. My wood furnace will take 22-24" pieces, and the door is 12x12, so my lengths average 20"long by whatever fits through the door opening, for a comfortable fit, that's long stuff to do by hand.

10% of my wood in three years has been straight grained easy splitting, the rest is machine split necessary.

Wife likes it too.

 

[DGG]

I would look for good used Husky 55 Rancher with 18"-20" bar (the newer version is the 455 Rancher). The 55 Rancher is comparable to the 359 without some of the bells & whistles (and price). I own and use both so I'm biased. I don't know much about the 455 Rancher. I haven't used a 24" bar so can't speak to the benefits over a 20" (or 18"). Either length bar works good on my Husky's in hard wood like maple, walnut, black cherry, and ash. White pine is a breeze.

In my experience with them both the 55 Rancher and the 359 have been fine dependable saws, that with a good maintenance routine, should do everything you need to do with a chain saw. If the scrounging turns into a full time job then an pro saw XP model (like 357xp) might be the best bet. Same weight, quicker cutting with more horsepower.

I could go with any of the recommendations on this thread though. I just happen to like the orange color!