I like Devcon...... they have one very thin mixture that pours and fills every pore. Don’t know if JB has one like that.I second the motion. Would use JB Weld.
Keep it level till it hardens!!!
But either way.....FAF
Fix And Forget
I like Devcon...... they have one very thin mixture that pours and fills every pore. Don’t know if JB has one like that.I second the motion. Would use JB Weld.
Clean the hole well
Pour in a thing epoxy
Drill
Tap
Correct way
You might be able to eliminate Drill and Tap if you coat the screw threads first with the epoxy and then wait a bit until the glue starts to harden and expand. That worked for me -- anything to make it a little easier. But, you do not want to go out and knock down a Bud Light and talk to a bar maid while you wait.Clean the hole well
Pour in a thing epoxy
Drill
Tap
Correct way
Elmer’s flue does the wood thing.I'm pretty sure these are self tapping. With the epoxy, done right, the part would be stronger then the OEM. I use to fly RC Gliders and the wood to wood epoxy joint would survive a violent clash whereas the wood on either side would break. The problem with many epoxy mixes was them being brittle, so us builders would add shredded fiberglass to fix that problem. Lots of considerations in drilling epoxy, as it still has to be pliable or it can break apart.
I am thinking the Gorilla Glue solved this problem.
Yup. But then you have to have the right release agent.You might be able to eliminate Drill and Tap if you coat the screw threads first with the epoxy and then wait a bit until the glue starts to harden and expand. That worked for me -- anything to make it a little easier. But, you do not want to go out and knock down a Bud Light and talk to a bar maid while you wait.
You might be able to eliminate Drill and Tap if you coat the screw threads first with the epoxy and then wait a bit until the glue starts to harden and expand. That worked for me -- anything to make it a little easier. But, you do not want to go out and knock down a Bud Light and talk to a bar maid while you wait.
As mentioned above... order a new one. Some shops have them in stock and they're not very expensive.
View attachment 671360
$10 with free shipping on ebay.
Really??
If a $10 part makes you pee your pants just wait until things start falling off of that 880. That saw should look REAL nice in a couple years
Hey, ya gotta admit, if tightening a bolt properly is outside of your skill set the odds are probably in my favor.You are the voice of Doom. Always Dark and Stormy in your forecast.
Hey, ya gotta admit, if tightening a bolt properly is outside of your skill set the odds are probably in my favor.
I can't argue with someone that knows everything about everything. Can you wipe my butt, I'm probably not doing that right either?
I can't argue with someone that knows everything about everything. Can you wipe my butt, I'm probably not doing that right either?
Bill, I told you that would work. It does take a little skill to apply it to the 1/2" of threads that go onto the plastic, wait two minutes, and do one bolt at a time. That way you don't have to worry about the gasket coming loose.JB Weld is setting nicely. I'll drill it out slightly small tomorrow and reassemble. If it doesn't work, I'm out 5c worth of epoxy and will then order the part for real. Found it on Amazon for $7 with free shipping.
Bill, I told you that would work. It does take a little skill to apply it to the 1/2" of threads that go onto the plastic, wait two minutes, and do one bolt at a time. That way you don't have to worry about the gasket coming loose.
The 51 might even be tougher to install a carb than the 350. Too many pieces have to go in all at once: gasket, carb, carb retainer, fuel line, choke, throttle, throttle holder, and a pair of screws, all in one push. Are you kidding me? Give me a break in Sweden! No wonder those threads got stripped out. It's a mechanic's nightmare.
Bill, I have a running problem with a Husky 350, and last year I installed a new top end. Compression is excellent, spark is good, fuel line and filter are all new. It has to be a bad carb. After what you posted here, I may try to convert it from a parts saw to a running saw by taking the next step -- buy a new carb. Who knows? I might save it.Having worked on this before, the job is simple now. It is a bit of a Rubics cube the first time. If I'm not out cutting wood tomorrow, this should go together quickly. I trust the rebuilt saw, which has run a bit, is now ready for final tuning, and I will be able to access the job complete.
Enter your email address to join: