Best goop to repair plastic threads

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I'm pretty sure these are self tapping. With the epoxy, done right, the part would be stronger then the OEM. I use to fly RC Gliders and the wood to wood epoxy joint would survive a violent crash whereas the wood on either side would break. The problem with many epoxy mixes was them being brittle, so us builders would add shredded fiberglass to fix that problem. Lots of considerations in drilling epoxy, as it still has to be pliable or it can break apart.

I am thinking the Gorilla Glue might solve this problem.

Clean the hole well
Pour in a thing epoxy
Drill
Tap
Correct way
 
Clean the hole well
Pour in a thing epoxy
Drill
Tap
Correct way
You might be able to eliminate Drill and Tap if you coat the screw threads first with the epoxy and then wait a bit until the glue starts to harden and expand. That worked for me -- anything to make it a little easier. But, you do not want to go out and knock down a Bud Light and talk to a bar maid while you wait. ;)
 
I'm pretty sure these are self tapping. With the epoxy, done right, the part would be stronger then the OEM. I use to fly RC Gliders and the wood to wood epoxy joint would survive a violent clash whereas the wood on either side would break. The problem with many epoxy mixes was them being brittle, so us builders would add shredded fiberglass to fix that problem. Lots of considerations in drilling epoxy, as it still has to be pliable or it can break apart.

I am thinking the Gorilla Glue solved this problem.
Elmer’s flue does the wood thing.
And there are all grades of epoxy.
Most are not like the cyanoacrylate. That’s why the good cyanoacrylates add ground rubber to give it some toughness.
“Super glue” has been around since the early 60s.
But two part epoxies are much tougher. And DEFCON makes some of the best. Not cheap. But the industrial stuff is a problem solver. Not the stuff from Home Depot.
The Titanium stiff is the Bees Knees for bedding rifles.
 
You might be able to eliminate Drill and Tap if you coat the screw threads first with the epoxy and then wait a bit until the glue starts to harden and expand. That worked for me -- anything to make it a little easier. But, you do not want to go out and knock down a Bud Light and talk to a bar maid while you wait. ;)
Yup. But then you have to have the right release agent.
Because if you don’t.......not that it ever happened to me!!!!!
It was a mess.......
There are so many great products that the public doesn’t know about.
In machine rebuilding there is stuff to fill the drive screw nuts when they wear. Great stuff
 
I going to find something similar so I can get familiar with the setting time of Gorilla glue. I have used it plenty, but mostly squeeze some out, clamp the parts, and later(?) it is done.

You might be able to eliminate Drill and Tap if you coat the screw threads first with the epoxy and then wait a bit until the glue starts to harden and expand. That worked for me -- anything to make it a little easier. But, you do not want to go out and knock down a Bud Light and talk to a bar maid while you wait. ;)
 
BTW, I do not think Nano glue is sold anymore. I bought this bottle seven years ago, and I think Bordon's dropped the product. It was half the cost of Gorilla glue at the time. Yes, it does harden in the bottle after a few years, even one that is factory sealed. JB Weld or Gorilla glue would probably be just as effective as this stuff was. They harden up in the bottle also, but maybe it just takes longer.
 
This helped. My search yesterday, kept showing me parts that did not look like I had remembered. I took the saw apart and yep, the part is different and has been changed.

Just like I thought the shipping is as much as the cost of the part. Not my expense, or I would definitely try the epoxy fix first. Now I will try them in tandem. With the part out completely, it looks like a simple thing to attempt the cheap fix.

As mentioned above... order a new one. Some shops have them in stock and they're not very expensive.
View attachment 671360
 
JB Weld is setting nicely. I'll drill it out slightly small tomorrow and reassemble. If it doesn't work, I'm out 5c worth of epoxy and will then order the part for real. Found it on Amazon for $7 with free shipping. :)
 
JB Weld is setting nicely. I'll drill it out slightly small tomorrow and reassemble. If it doesn't work, I'm out 5c worth of epoxy and will then order the part for real. Found it on Amazon for $7 with free shipping. :)
Bill, I told you that would work. It does take a little skill to apply it to the 1/2" of threads that go onto the plastic, wait two minutes, and do one bolt at a time. That way you don't have to worry about the gasket coming loose.

The 51 might even be tougher to install a carb than the 350. Too many pieces have to go in all at once: gasket, carb, carb retainer, fuel line, choke, throttle, throttle holder, and a pair of screws, all in one push. Are you kidding me? Give me a break in Sweden! No wonder those threads got stripped out. It's a mechanic's nightmare.
 
Having worked on this before, the job is simple now. It is a bit of a Rubics cube the first time. If I'm not out cutting wood tomorrow, this should go together quickly. I trust the rebuilt saw, which has run a bit, is now ready for final tuning, and I will be able to access the job complete.

Bill, I told you that would work. It does take a little skill to apply it to the 1/2" of threads that go onto the plastic, wait two minutes, and do one bolt at a time. That way you don't have to worry about the gasket coming loose.

The 51 might even be tougher to install a carb than the 350. Too many pieces have to go in all at once: gasket, carb, carb retainer, fuel line, choke, throttle, throttle holder, and a pair of screws, all in one push. Are you kidding me? Give me a break in Sweden! No wonder those threads got stripped out. It's a mechanic's nightmare.
 
Having worked on this before, the job is simple now. It is a bit of a Rubics cube the first time. If I'm not out cutting wood tomorrow, this should go together quickly. I trust the rebuilt saw, which has run a bit, is now ready for final tuning, and I will be able to access the job complete.
Bill, I have a running problem with a Husky 350, and last year I installed a new top end. Compression is excellent, spark is good, fuel line and filter are all new. It has to be a bad carb. After what you posted here, I may try to convert it from a parts saw to a running saw by taking the next step -- buy a new carb. Who knows? I might save it.
 
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