Guess the point of the thread has been side tracked. Thanks for all the advice. I do use knot-less rigging, runner loops to girth hitch 4 small limbs at a time, I do use port o wraps and tailboard blocks. I also will isolate a 4"-6" crotch at the top of the tree with my throw line and use that to lower the whole tree without having to set a false removable crotch from the ground, or climb to the top to place the block. Here's a good scenario. Let's say you have a 45' Colorado Spruce to remove. 2,3, maybe 4" diameter limbs at the bottom, next to the house. You don't want the butt end of these to bust a window, so you lower it all. Now, your not going to climb to the top through very thick canopy to set a block to save friction are you? I'm going to toss my throw line over the entire top. Drag my lowering line up and over, and go to work with my running end while the friction through all the canopy will lower few hundred pound limbs just fine. If I want to girth hitch 4 or 5 limbs with runner loops as the limbs get smaller then fine. Friction on lowering line can be increased by running through the port o at the bottom. Still natural crotching at the top. Are you going to run your precious 'double braids' time and time again 'natural crotch' lowering (with or without) the port? No. You want to use the most affordable, abrasion resistant lowering line you can. Double braids are good ropes, but not the best choice for tree service due to their sensitive cover (the mantle). They weren't even designed for tree service. Did you know the energy absorbing Polydyne nylon core polyester sheath double braid from Yale was in in service 30+ years ago mooring boats to docks?
Looks like a few choices. 16 strand for great abrasion. 12 strand such as TrueBlue or Buzz are almost as good for abrasion, but may be more economical (Buzz) than 16 strand. Either way, still expensive. My original question: I have never used three strand, it's cheap and tough. Wondering if it works well. Sounds like it hockles, twists with port use, etc., so maybe not a good choice.
So what is the best all around that will save time and $? I think like Yale Cordage said it would be the 9/16" or 5/8" climbing line XTC16. Not as strong as a double braid polyester, but much more energy absorbing (like a spring), and much more resistant to abrasion. I run my ropes over bark all the time in many different scenarios. Double braid sailing rope is just not abrasion resistant at all. We need an industry designed rigging rope. Much like a static kernmantle rescue rope (very tough mantle, load bearing core), but with a more knotable core twist/cover braid, low stretch at loads up to 10% for efficient pulling/lifting, yet still good ultimate energy absorbing characteristics for the dynamic loads. Steam stabilized yarn so the cover doesn't work harden over time and you end up with an unknotable wire rope. Non milking as well. Preferably all polyester so it doesn't weaken when wet like nylon (storm damage cleanup) or glaze like poly-olefin. Bright color for safety and quick diameter identification. Non rotational, non hockling.
I run ropes over bark all the time. If I have one limb 10' up were removing cause it's too low or something, and the tree species has thick bark, I will natural rig it for speed sake (in back yard away from your cozy bucket truck). First toss throw line over higher limb. Pull rigging rope over. Next, toss throw line over limb to be removed. Pull working end of lowering line over limb to be removed, but keep hold of lowering rope so that when you get the working end you can tie a running bowline around it. Now, take a half wrap around the tree, reach up with motorized pole saw, cut the limb and finish with proper cut for the stub. Now wasn't that faster than setting your climbing line, getting out your climbing gear, installing a block after you climb up to the rigging point, cow hitching the port o, getting the lowering line, clipping on your climbing saw, etc.? I used one rope, a throwline, and my pole saw. Many reasons not to use a double braid and a port.
