Fifelaker
Addicted to ArboristSite
Any maul in the hands of the 17 year old farmer kid trying to impress your daughter
Why she didn't stay with him is beyond me:mad2:
Why she didn't stay with him is beyond me:mad2:
Best splitting Maul
- Thread starter mad murdock
- Start date
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fearofpavement
Trying them all
The one one the left is the Sotz, the one on the right is a no name I picked up at an auction for $10.00 with some other stuff. Never use the red one, just doesn't have the same feel.
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Guido
The one on the left looks exactly like my "weapon of choice". Never saw any name on it but it is the same exact shape and color. Like I stated a few replies ago, I think the naysayers have little experience with them. Maybe they just don't look "complicated" enough.
From a physics standpoint you have two things going: The simple machine (wedge) and inertia. Combined they do the job.
Fifelaker
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have the Fiskars. It is as good as they say it is. You can produce a lot of speed at impact and can swing it all day. I have the Granfors Bruk splitting maul. It is a nice piece of craftsmanship, and feels the best to swing (most balanced). If I have easy-moderate wood to split I use the GB because it feels best and has a shorter handle (31" as opposed to 35"). The thing I don't like about the GB is it sticks in the wood the most out of all my splitting tools on harder to split wood; therefore, I give the Fiskars the slight edge. I also have the Iltis Oxhead. It is built like a German tank; definitely not made for feel and balance. The Oxhead splits things the Fiskars and GB can't for obvious reasons (heavier and wider). I like the way the head is attached. It is great for hitting wedges too. I also have the Monster Maul (12# head). When all else fails I use it. I swing mine instead of just letting it fall. If I want a work out I use it on everything except the really small rounds. Honestly, I don't think there is a "best". There are a lot of good ones to do the job. Sorry I couldn't pick one. it is like asking which chainsaw is best. Somebody already said a Fiskars and a big maul would make a good combo---I couldn't agree more. For those that are anti-Fiskars just substitute any splitting axe or smaller maul. Hope this helps.
From a Physics standpoint the equation for kintetic energy is KE=1/2*m*v[SUP]2[/SUP]
If all you do is drop it then v is the same no matter what the weight, so if your tool is twice the mass you deliver twice the energy on impact. If you swing the tool at twice the speed you deliver 4 times the energy on impact. So swing the heaviest tool you can swing fast. I have an 8lb maul from the tough stuff, and I can swing it fast but it takes a lot out of me - but I am not just dropping it.
I have never seen an anvil on a stick from the old days when people heated only with wood - they knew better.
fearofpavement
Trying them all
In the old days they didn't have edm wire burners to cut out blocks of steel with nice straight edges either. Don't think these mauls are stupid unless you have actually tried one. I don't let them drop either. I swing it. How they did things in days past has no relationship to what is presently available. Whip saws aren't so great compared to an MS880 for big timber... And a diesel skidder in most cases will out perform a mule team or draft horses... and a feller buncher will put more timber on the ground in a day than a skilled woodsman could do in a couple months.
one big advantage of the monster maul is that you can just split all the rounds on the ground, don't need to stand them on a splitting block. That saves energy to swing the maul.
one big advantage of the monster maul is that you can just split all the rounds on the ground, don't need to stand them on a splitting block. That saves energy to swing the maul.
Oldsawnut
Addicted to ArboristSite
Monster Maul is by far the best... At least out here where you get the knotty 2-3ft rounds.. I guess if you are splitting clear 12" rounds the fiskars might be better. But for the tough stuff monster is by far the best...
Incomplete
ArboristSite Guru
The Secret to ALL of life's problems: Finesse, not Force. Sometimes you need a little. Some times you need alot.
(Unless you are a terrorist, then we are going to break this Can O' over your head! Hulk Smash! CaAaAaAaaptain Caveman!)
(Unless you are a terrorist, then we are going to break this Can O' over your head! Hulk Smash! CaAaAaAaaptain Caveman!)
Mega Maul with steel handleis a good choich it looks like the Sotz,and weighs in at 14.5 pounds. I like The ChopperII,even though it does get stuck in the wood,sometimes.Usually I'll use a splitting wedge,in the knotty logs because I don't have a splitter,yet.
Iwannacutfast
ArboristSite Member
I welded a 4 point spike to a 20lb sledge and cut the first 4"s of a maul and welded it to the other end it weigs 30lbs and is probaly the worst maul ever but it will split anything I swing it at and would be right at home in a mid evil battle feild
mattthompson
ArboristSite Operative
You are probably thinking of the Sotz Monster Maul, I have one of the 16# ones and now regret not buying a lighter one while they were still in business. At the time I was young and never thought I might want a lighter one but after 30+ years of swinging the heavy one there will come a point in time where I will need something lighter.
The one one the left is the Sotz, the one on the right is a no name I picked up at an auction for $10.00 with some other stuff. Never use the red one, just doesn't have the same feel. I bought a bunch of stuff at an auction and in the bottom of one of the boxes I found a brand new in the box Sotz barrel stove kit. I put it on Craigslist and had calls from several states from people wanting to buy it. I should have kept the folded newspaper catalog that was with it.
That exactly what we had, how does your work? We used to split 3' sycamores with that and a sledge hammer
Do you have a pic? I am trying to imagine what it looks like. Sounds evil.
DarthTater
Keep Calm & Carry a Chainsaw
The one one the left is the Sotz, the one on the right is a no name I picked up at an auction for $10.00 with some other stuff. Never use the red one, just doesn't have the same feel.
..................................................................................
Guido
The one on the left looks exactly like my "weapon of choice". Never saw any name on it but it is the same exact shape and color. Like I stated a few replies ago, I think the naysayers have little experience with them. Maybe they just don't look "complicated" enough.
From a physics standpoint you have two things going: The simple machine (wedge) and inertia. Combined they do the job.
someone left a 8lb version of that red one with a busted handle at this house when I moved in, been wondering If I should get it fixed...
as for the splitting maul I use atm I use this one.
Condor Tools & Knives :: Splitting Maul
(bottom half of the page)
Considered a Fiskars, but all they have local is the Gerber ones that are prone to the handle shattering, might see if i can snag an x27 online....
misterfreindly
ArboristSite Operative
mauls
10 years ago we bought a gas powered hydraulic splitter and I AM ETERNALLY GRATEFUL.
Nothing has been mentioned regarding SHARPENING the edge of the maul.
Sharpen that thing like you would sharpen an axe.
I have used four manual methods to split wood over almost 40 years.
Monster maul .... waste of money.
Sledge and wedge, well, if that is all you have, go for it.
The other two are no-names, one with a wood handle and the other with a fiberglass handle.
The glass handled maul has split dozens of cords of firewood. Fiberglass beats wood handle here.
Sharpen the edge like one would an axe. File, or better yet, an angle grinder with a sanding disk.
It is all about applying force to the physics of the wedge. (Re-read the post about physics.)
Good luck with finding and swinging the right maul, OP.
10 years ago we bought a gas powered hydraulic splitter and I AM ETERNALLY GRATEFUL.
Nothing has been mentioned regarding SHARPENING the edge of the maul.
Sharpen that thing like you would sharpen an axe.
I have used four manual methods to split wood over almost 40 years.
Monster maul .... waste of money.
Sledge and wedge, well, if that is all you have, go for it.
The other two are no-names, one with a wood handle and the other with a fiberglass handle.
The glass handled maul has split dozens of cords of firewood. Fiberglass beats wood handle here.
Sharpen the edge like one would an axe. File, or better yet, an angle grinder with a sanding disk.
It is all about applying force to the physics of the wedge. (Re-read the post about physics.)
Good luck with finding and swinging the right maul, OP.
Guido Salvage
Supreme Saw Whoreder
I guess since I have used the Monster Maul for so long I really don't think about other methods. I swing it overhand from way behind my back, the most effective way I have found.
By the way, I have found a source for the original Sotz Monster Maul, but they aren't cheap ($110). PM me if you want the info.
By the way, I have found a source for the original Sotz Monster Maul, but they aren't cheap ($110). PM me if you want the info.
Bought a Fiskars a couple years ago. The first time it stuck, I did what you're suppose to do, hit it with a hammer. Broke it! Don't know what everybody's splitting with those things, but it's not Ohio oak, elm, or even a gnarly ash.
I use a 6 or 8lb maul with a 6 or 8lb sledge with the handle cut short. My neighbor wears himself out pulling his maul out when it gets stuck, I use the flat spot made on the back of it to knock it through. Not to mention he loosens the handle up pulling on it.
Mike
I use a 6 or 8lb maul with a 6 or 8lb sledge with the handle cut short. My neighbor wears himself out pulling his maul out when it gets stuck, I use the flat spot made on the back of it to knock it through. Not to mention he loosens the handle up pulling on it.
Mike
zogger
Tree Freak
No, you arent supposed to hit it with a hammer, they tell you that right on the axe sheath/carry handle. Not designed for that at all, not to be hammered on, or not to be used to bash steel wedges either. Its a lightweight axe, not a maul. Use it like an axe, it works, use it like a maul, it wont. Different swing, different technique.
Not sure why it wouldnt work for you, I have done tons with mine, all sorts of wood, and I have the stacks to prove it. As do many other guys here. It doesnt do every single piece well, but around 90% of what I cut, various species and sizes, it busts readily.
SawTroll
Information Collector
I can imagine that! :cool2:
SawTroll
Information Collector
I use the ol' 2400 (x25), and don't really feel I want the longer handle of the x27. It is nice that the option is there though! :msp_thumbup:
