Best way to break in a never been started saw.

[o8f150]

Ride it hard and put it away wet.

my wife says the same thing

 

[spacemule]

I hate that the dealers around here do that same thing. They are supposed to fuel them and check for proper tuning, instead they just make sure it starts and then rev the piss out of them. As far as richening the mix wouldnt that actually create a lean running condition? More oil means less fuel is getting burned.

Rich and lean is specifically taking about fuel mix to air ratio. More fuel equals rich. Less fuel equals lean.

To "check the tune," the saw must be revved. Believe it or not, revving is in fact what saws are designed to do.

 

[ChainLightning]

i'm not sure on that, i had figured that more oil would be good, maybe itd be best to just use the regular 50:1?

I would personally run a 40:1 for the first tank of gas. Then after that, run your standard 50:1. just a little bit more oil is better than just a little under. But with today's oil, I would not worry. I still run 40:1 Husqvarna oil in all my 2 strokes. Calls for 50:1, but I would rather have a little more just to be sure.

 

[indiansprings]

I've taken every new saw out and ran it like I stole it. Had quite a few new saws over the last 30 years and never have had an issue. If they are going to have a problem I want it to show up quick, I give a new saw no special treatment, they are made to cut at wide open throttle, just hammer down, keep the chain sharp, air filter clean and good 50:1 Ultra mix with 93 octane and maintain it by blow it off, cleaning periodically under the chain cover and it should last a lifetime.

 

[stihl023/5]

Mix 45:1 warm it up and cut simple as that.:bang:

 

[Anthony_Va.]

It seems like putting a saw right to work from new makes them better runners. I've always took mine straight to the woods and cut with them. Just make sure the saw is tuned right. Your dealer should already have that covered.

 

[HELSEL]

If it had a rev limiter I would be on
it !! If it didn't I would be looking for it.

 

[sun64]

I hate that the dealers around here do that same thing. They are supposed to fuel them and check for proper tuning, instead they just make sure it starts and then rev the piss out of them. As far as richening the mix wouldnt that actually create a lean running condition? More oil means less fuel is getting burned.

Greame Alexander Bells book on two stroke tuning stated that more oil added to the mix makes more power.
The book was written origionally in the 80's but has since been updated.
Yes you have less fuel to oil ratio but oil burns as well as lubricates.
I live in the tropics in Australia. My Stihl dealer fills and starts the saws up using 25:1 mix
I often use between 25:1 and 32:1 depending on what I am doing.
Never had a problem with the saws at this ratio and like any tool , they get abused at times.
Colder climated, these ratios would be harder to start and run but I dont have that problem up here.
LOL , Santa Cause has red singlet and shorts on up here.
Like has been said before, breaking in, I make sure they are good to go and just use them.
No #####footing around, just run em.

 

[paccity]

:msp_rolleyes:opcorn:

 

[tolman_paul]

It's been awhile since I've read my Bell book, but as I recall the issue with oil ratio was in relation to cylinders with cast iron sleeves. There are two issues with those engines, one is the cooling isn't that efficient on the cylinder with a cast iron sleeve that is press fit to the aluminum cylinder, and the cast iron sleeve isn't nearly as smooth as a nickosil bore. With engines that put out ~ two to four times as much hp/cc as a chainsaw, more oil is a good thing to keep from sticking the piston. Those engines are also typically torn down and rebuilt after a fraction of the hours put on a chainsaw engine.

Chainsaws are not the same beast and more oil does not make more power. Additional oil is just going to carbon up the head, piston and exhaust port.

 

[Slamm]

It's been awhile since I've read my Bell book, but as I recall the issue with oil ratio was in relation to cylinders with cast iron sleeves. There are two issues with those engines, one is the cooling isn't that efficient on the cylinder with a cast iron sleeve that is press fit to the aluminum cylinder, and the cast iron sleeve isn't nearly as smooth as a nickosil bore. With engines that put out ~ two to four times as much hp/cc as a chainsaw, more oil is a good thing to keep from sticking the piston. Those engines are also typically torn down and rebuilt after a fraction of the hours put on a chainsaw engine.

Chainsaws are not the same beast and more oil does not make more power. Additional oil is just going to carbon up the head, piston and exhaust port.

Good points, also there is a point of deminishing returns. I've run Amsoil from 80-100:1 to 40:1 never really noticed any difference.

Sam

 

[sun64]

It's been awhile since I've read my Bell book, but as I recall the issue with oil ratio was in relation to cylinders with cast iron sleeves. There are two issues with those engines, one is the cooling isn't that efficient on the cylinder with a cast iron sleeve that is press fit to the aluminum cylinder, and the cast iron sleeve isn't nearly as smooth as a nickosil bore. With engines that put out ~ two to four times as much hp/cc as a chainsaw, more oil is a good thing to keep from sticking the piston. Those engines are also typically torn down and rebuilt after a fraction of the hours put on a chainsaw engine.

Chainsaws are not the same beast and more oil does not make more power. Additional oil is just going to carbon up the head, piston and exhaust port.

One of the guys from Queensland ( splitpost i think) took photos of his Stihl ms660 after 2 years running at 25:1 before he ported it. It was around 6 months ago from memory.
The cylinder was as clean as. No carbon build up at all.
You have to remember that the synthetic oils of today are not like the mineral oils of yesteryear.
I have checked my plugs and they are the normal, brown, greyish colour. Not soot black.
With the high rpm that a chainsaw is turning, it is not like an old 2 stroke lawnmower.
Like I have said, I have never had a problem.
You could probably do a search or go in splitposts gallery for his photos.
Cheers Wayne

 

[samdweezel05]

1. Full choke, pull till fires.
2. Half choke, pull till running.
3. Choke off and strait to WFO.
4. Go cut wood.

 

[GBD]

Greame Alexander Bells book on two stroke tuning stated that more oil added to the mix makes more power.
The book was written origionally in the 80's but has since been updated.
Yes you have less fuel to oil ratio but oil burns as well as lubricates.
I live in the tropics in Australia. My Stihl dealer fills and starts the saws up using 25:1 mix
I often use between 25:1 and 32:1 depending on what I am doing.
Never had a problem with the saws at this ratio and like any tool , they get abused at times.
Colder climated, these ratios would be harder to start and run but I dont have that problem up here.
LOL , Santa Cause has red singlet and shorts on up here.
Like has been said before, breaking in, I make sure they are good to go and just use them.
No #####footing around, just run em.

A G Bell was wrong about most things concerning two stroke topends. He discarded all scientific reserch available on the subject and made up his own rules. Results were mainly screamers with no torque backup.

 

[sun64]

Yeah, there are probably some descrepancies in his book. Different oil ratios have been discussed in other threads.
Up here in the build up before the wet season it gets to 39 degrees celsius / 102.20 Fahrenheit.
Kinds like the temp difference between Florida and Alaska. Saws will / can run at different ratios.
To me the saws are made in colder countries where the operating paramiters / specifications are different to what I run at here.
In Australia with our Eucalyptus trees being a hard wood, if your cutting larger trees, the saw will clean itself up a lot better than cutting smaller softer wood, so it also depends on what size saw and what you are cutting.
So for me, I like the security in high temps of more oil. Thats just me.
Like I said before, my dealer breaks them in up here at 25:1 and they have been around here for a long time.
As previously stated though to OP question, carry out your checks and just run em.
Cheers Wayne

 

[Denis Gionet]

It's been awhile since I've read my Bell book, but as I recall the issue with oil ratio was in relation to cylinders with cast iron sleeves. There are two issues with those engines, one is the cooling isn't that efficient on the cylinder with a cast iron sleeve that is press fit to the aluminum cylinder, and the cast iron sleeve isn't nearly as smooth as a nickosil bore. With engines that put out ~ two to four times as much hp/cc as a chainsaw, more oil is a good thing to keep from sticking the piston. Those engines are also typically torn down and rebuilt after a fraction of the hours put on a chainsaw engine.

Chainsaws are not the same beast and more oil does not make more power. Additional oil is just going to carbon up the head, piston and exhaust port.

There might be a discrepancy that applies with iron cylinders with lots of hours. I've seen instances where outboards running 100:1 would have significant power improvements when using 50:1, after a bazillion hours of use. Right after warmup the engine would start losing power at full throttle while on the 100:1 mix, but would not experience this power loss on the richer mix. Mind you we're talking about something 1/3 the speed of a saw, but the hours theory should still apply on anything with decades of use. I've got a mower at the lake that has this very issue.

Another thing I've heard of was using far richer oil mixtures than normal in racing motorcycle applications. Some folks would richen up the oil mix after a rebuild and promptly overheat and burn down the engine due to higher temperatures. Why ? Oil doesn't cool the piston like fuel does. It had been discovered that using the correct oil mix on the same engine would keep the piston cooler and prevent the burn down. If I'm not mistaken, I read that in Olav Aaen's Carb Tuning Handbook, regarding snowmobile carbs. The theories apply in any 2-stroke though.

For a saw nowadays, 50:1, premium gas (Ethanol free) and have a nice day.

 

[phillipmc]

Just use the same mix you intend to use for the long run and cut with it like you would normally. The saw will do just fine. Keep sharp chain, clean filter and enjoy your new investment.

 

[pgg]

Chainsaws are very delicate, so you should break a chainsaw in very carefully. First of all soak the chain and bar in a drum of synthetic 2-stroke oil for at least three days before using. Start the saw and blip the throttle five times then immediately switch off. Repeat the process anywhere between thirty to forty times. Next step is to run the saw in wood for twenty five minutes with a 26 - 28 second break between each 2 minute fifteen second burst. Gradually over a period of a few weeks start to increase the time period between breaks by at least five or six seconds each time. By 2013 the saw should be running at full potential.



Otherwise just start it and run it, it'll make no difference hohoho

 

[sun64]

There might be a discrepancy that applies with iron cylinders with lots of hours. I've seen instances where outboards running 100:1 would have significant power improvements when using 50:1, after a bazillion hours of use. Right after warmup the engine would start losing power at full throttle while on the 100:1 mix, but would not experience this power loss on the richer mix. Mind you we're talking about something 1/3 the speed of a saw, but the hours theory should still apply on anything with decades of use. I've got a mower at the lake that has this very issue.

Another thing I've heard of was using far richer oil mixtures than normal in racing motorcycle applications. Some folks would richen up the oil mix after a rebuild and promptly overheat and burn down the engine due to higher temperatures. Why ? Oil doesn't cool the piston like fuel does. It had been discovered that using the correct oil mix on the same engine would keep the piston cooler and prevent the burn down. If I'm not mistaken, I read that in Olav Aaen's Carb Tuning Handbook, regarding snowmobile carbs. The theories apply in any 2-stroke though.

For a saw nowadays, 50:1, premium gas (Ethanol free) and have a nice day.

Interesting, but how come a lot of people recommend using more oil to the mix when milling with a chainsaw where the temps are a lot higher for longer periods of time than regular cross cutting ?
Would'nt the saws sieze up then when running more oil ?

 

[Mastermind]

One of the guys from Queensland ( splitpost i think) took photos of his Stihl ms660 after 2 years running at 25:1 before he ported it. It was around 6 months ago from memory.
The cylinder was as clean as. No carbon build up at all.
You have to remember that the synthetic oils of today are not like the mineral oils of yesteryear.
I have checked my plugs and they are the normal, brown, greyish colour. Not soot black.
With the high rpm that a chainsaw is turning, it is not like an old 2 stroke lawnmower.
Like I have said, I have never had a problem.
You could probably do a search or go in splitposts gallery for his photos.
Cheers Wayne

Not trying to turn this into yet another oil thread.....but.

I use Belray H1R @ 32:1.

No way in hell I will run the engines I build on 50:1.

To the OP just run it as if it were a used, well worn saw. I take saws outta the boxes, tear em down for port and machine work. When they go back together I fire em up and tune for the rpm I'm looking for and cut wood.....