Best way to break in a never been started saw.

[GeeVee]

my wife says the same thing

PICS, or it didn't happen.....

 

[Denis Gionet]

Interesting, but how come a lot of people recommend using more oil to the mix when milling with a chainsaw where the temps are a lot higher for longer periods of time than regular cross cutting ?
Would'nt the saws sieze up then when running more oil ?

The theory that the increased temperature should still apply but may not burn the engine down due to this single error. I'm not saying run 20:1 and it'll blow, simply that oil has little or no cooling effect to a piston, and the higher concentration of oil is replacing fuel that can cool the piston better (even though it will lube more). I did a bunch of milling this summer with 50:1 Husky oil and 91 octane E-free fuel, on my 435 Husky and a borrowed 181 Husky. Both are jetted slightly rich from the "ideal" setting, to help keep it cool.

One day I'd like to try putting an Exhaust Temp gauge on a saw, you know, like you'd put on a race sled or muscle car. 1300-1350 degrees is "ideal" for maximum power output on a sled, I'd be curious to see what a well-tuned saw puts out. It'd be a nice visual indicator for temps while milling.

 

[Arrowhead]

You can (if you want) cut with it like it was an old saw.... after you let it warm up a couple minutes. I like to tune them a little rich after a rebuild, and slowly work up to wot.

 

[mrnecsteve]

Start it up,let it idle for a minute ...then run it.
When youre done a hard run,let it idle for a minute before shutting it down.(The idea of this is to leave a heavier oil residue on the cylinder walls ,for when you start it the next time.)

 

[4x4American]

yea an egt gauge would be real cool on a chainsaw i like that idea. i got one on my pickem up truck its good to have it there i never shut truck off if the egt gauge is above 400 degrees, kinda like a set point where i know my turbo is oiled.

 

[tolman_paul]

The theory that the increased temperature should still apply but may not burn the engine down due to this single error. I'm not saying run 20:1 and it'll blow, simply that oil has little or no cooling effect to a piston, and the higher concentration of oil is replacing fuel that can cool the piston better (even though it will lube more). I did a bunch of milling this summer with 50:1 Husky oil and 91 octane E-free fuel, on my 435 Husky and a borrowed 181 Husky. Both are jetted slightly rich from the "ideal" setting, to help keep it cool.

One day I'd like to try putting an Exhaust Temp gauge on a saw, you know, like you'd put on a race sled or muscle car. 1300-1350 degrees is "ideal" for maximum power output on a sled, I'd be curious to see what a well-tuned saw puts out. It'd be a nice visual indicator for temps while milling.

It's important to realize that those "ideal" exhaust temps are for relatively short WOT runs, what maybe 5-10 seconds? When you are running wot for extended periods of time i.e. minutes in the case of milling, I can almost guarantee you'll melt a piston if you run the saw lean enough for exhaust temps in the 1300's. When I went to Bonneville with a friend who was racing his car I got to see what at the time was the worlds fastest wheel driven car, the Spirit of 76 which at that time was making runs of 430 mph. The engine was a hemi dragster engine that was de=tuned. Top fuel dragsters were making 5000 hp, the speed-o-motive engine was making 2000 hp. Big difference making a 1/4 mile run to a 4 mile run as far as how much hp you can make and the engine survive.

Other than industrial and marine engines, most engines simply aren't capable of running at full throttle for extended periods without overheating as the cooling systems aren't sized for those running conditions.

I think that the ideal setup would be both an exhaust gauge and a head temp gauge. The exhaust gauge will give you a quick response for tuning the carb, but the head temp will give you a better idea of how the engine is performing over the long haul, i.e. if the head temp keeps rising with the exhaust at a relatively constant temp, you know your engine isn't receiving enough cooling and you're likely going to stick it at some point. Of course the magic question is, what are the those temps, I dunno the only way to find out is to run until you stick a piston, then richen up the carb after the rebuild :msp_biggrin:

 

[Denis Gionet]

Yeah, I agree that I won't be the test pilot on that, a stack of pistons isn't in the budget lately.

I've seen those Head temp gauges that's a sensor that fits under the spark plug and sits tight against the head, I think Arctic Cat had those on some of their sleds years ago. I wonder if that'd work. Haven't seen one in a coon's age.

 

[tolman_paul]

Digatron has made them for years for racing karts, and other uses. Occasionally the older ones will go for ~$75 on flea bay, and the most common configuration is a tach and head temp gauge. They also made tripple gauges, tach, head temp and exhaust temp. My buddy who raced at Bonneville gave me a tach with dual exhaust temp gauges that I used on my shifter kart, and I used the second exhaust temp for water temp.