i agree with Kevin on bar abuse, probably good time for a non-bearing tip if a lot of dirty wood or plunging; 3 abuses bearings don't take to well shok, heat and dirt. Also can be dangerous; never do 2 things wrong at once so they can't compound against you ; firm footing, grip, self bracing as anchor, chain brake etc. in this compromised position please, of potential pitching force. Dull a chain doing this and invisiblely captured inside deep kerf cut heat can reaaly build up quick, challenging any tip i think.
If doing it, i keep heat/pressure on tip in mind and butter bar, not bear pressure on tip constantly so it can cool too; also lead with bottom/ bottom corner pressure and not exactly the nose when you can. As always being aware that any cutting actually done with top part of the bar can cause pushback/kickback, any upper tip cutting can cause whip/kickback. Cutting at the 'square' of the tip, can diretclty jam topside/ top corner into cut position in this box it creates, where you can't even see. Reverse coming back for Pulls from cutting on bottom side, that aalso pulls cutting bar into the sheiled of the spar, onto the lever of the bumper spikes. Catching that power and leverage curve to work for you can make the same cutting task much easier.
The 'backsstrap' remote trigger release, must be sound, and doesn't take as much material as some people think if it is. It is positioned in the most leveraged position to resist folding to the face when commonly placed at farthest reach from hinge, leveraging it as far back as possible from the hinge trying to move, powered by the leaner's call to the earth.
One reason for coming very deep into a spar with face would be to undermine the C.o.B. of the fall in a tree without C.o.B. favorably helping, so by moving hinge back deeper into tree, coming closer to C.o.B. being more forwardly set in comparison to hionge in the adjustment. This is only one mechanical choice that the hinge makes in it's manufacture. But with this favorable lean (head leaner), we don't have to bring the hinge deeper (less cutting overall), which puts the 'backstrap' at the severe rear to have more leveraged control til'released, and puts less pressure on it at the same time, and you farther from fall and hinge worx all at the same time. This will also give less sudden release, as the C.o.B. to hinge ratio is softer, but still favorable, so there is more self balallast in the 1st lass lever balance on the hinge, thus less 'ping' in your face on release if hinge is guessed thin. In a Head leaner, i think hinging higher also gives less leverage to lean's pull. Conversley, you might cut lower on a shallow forward leaner to give whatever lean more leverage, if wind pushes against, less leverage of push desired on hinge, cut higher, need more push, wind from behind, cut lower, to give sail more leverage on hinge.
Wedge trick is nice for step lift to opposing side. This puts spring pressure on the system. If Wedge is 10in. for 1" liftthen 10x1 machine - friction, if JP is mad slamming a mini 2#wedge into that 10x1, try to keep him mad until he balances the other side with all of that, then hit that trigger peice (wait until he is clear and done hammering for sure next time).
But, this is all guess work on previous experience. Too thin a hinge / damage per pressure of : C.o.B. + wedge + line pull, can let go violently, softly or not at all when triggered. All by what you pre-set prior to triggering, not what you cut and guide so much in present time. But it can be done at the farthest position from the machine of the hinge motion and spar place-meant, rather than closest position to the works (ending up with bar at hinge , rather than at farthest circumfrence.
