'Bore cut' versus 'Plunge cut'?

[Philbert]

I've collected and repaired well over a dozen ruined bars with frozen noses -- tip bearings shor. . . . "I do a lot of bore and plunge cutting in big logs."

Bar noses are a durable-but-consumable item. Rather mess up a bunch of nose sprockets than get gobsmacked by a nasty barber chair.

Philbert

 

[Skeans]

Bar noses are a durable-but-consumable item. Rather mess up a bunch of nose sprockets than get gobsmacked by a nasty barber chair.

Philbert

There’s other methods to keep chairs at bay without boring out the back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Philbert]

There’s other methods to keep chairs at bay without boring out the back.

Yep. It's good to have options.

Philbert

 

[68 Buick]

Yep. It's good to have options.

Philbert

Newbie here, I have enjoyed the info that has been shared on this subject.

 

[HumBurner]

There’s other methods to keep chairs at bay without boring out the back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Coos Bay if directional control is not a [significant] factor.

 

[RandyMac]

'chair 'em for the noise of it

 

[madmarksolomon]

'chair 'em for the noise of it

Is that for the crash or the timber faller screaming, or both.

 

[RandyMac]

Why would the faller be screaming?

 

[madmarksolomon]

Good point

 

[Jay Hansen]

Why is that?
Curious mostly... was I taught wrong?

I was taught to use "option A" only when Wedging in front of the holding wood (strap) was desired. Otherwise, just finish the cut as in option B and make the exist sooner.
Option B is a natural motion... cut away from the hinge taking the saw with you and leaving the tree to fall.
Coming back to cut back towards the hinge is less efficient/safe as one has more time around a compromised tree.

Out here, I cut a lot of Alders which are known to chair. Using a plunge cut is pretty much an always thing although, Seldom do I wedge with a plunge cut to finish (maybe half dozen times in 2 years).
Once in a while they are twisted as they grow upward making the weight confusing... so you wedge or use a rope winch in extreme cases.
Anyway... different strokes for different coasts maybe.

I had an incident using option b. I was falling a black oak that leaned really hard. I faced it up and then bored (plunged?) through, left an adequate hinge, and then continued my cut out towards the back side. With about 2" left to go, the wood still holding split down the stump and pulled free. The tree went VERY suddenly and with no warning whatsoever, and took the saw with it. I wasn't hurt, and even the saw was thrown clear without damage, but it convinced me that options b isn't an option

 

[RandyMac]

Some trees will do something funny, regardless of what you do.
Internal flaws are hard to read, watch the chips for change in color, some will smell sour when starting to rot.
Have an alphabet of plans, each tree is an individual.
Go steep and deep.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Most plunging and boring are designed to make a simple job look difficult.
Each to his own but all my P&B cuts are reserved for leaners.
Anything else is just perfunctorily or affectatious.

 

[andy]

Most plunging and boring are designed to make a simple job look difficult.
Each to his own but all my P&B cuts are reserved for leaners.
Anything else is just perfunctorily or affectatious.

Generally I would agree.
If you walk through a forest of red alders and look at how many blown up and shattered dead standers there are.
These trees are born to barber chair and will do it with or without a saw coming at them.
One uses their best methods in there.

 

[RandyMac]

flippin' alders, add maples, Madrones to that list, all regions have trees that 'chair.
Big conifers can 'chair, it is rare, but major stump pull is a problem.
Go steep and deep.