bought my first saw, ,left wanting more

[yakcatr]

I wasn't sure to post here or in the 101 section.
Bit about me 28yo first time sawer. May have cut a maximum of 2 chords previously with some 70some cc saws.

I have about 20 14 to 20" standing dead trees to down several stumps to flush cut then grind and lots of dead fall to cut up and chip.

Went in to several shops and told them the same.

Husky dealer rec a 455 ($529.00)
Another shop sells both stihl and husky said a 455($519)
Went to another that sells husky echo jonersered
He said 455 is great ($499 as I bought my toro lawnmower frok him)
However said the echo cs500p wis a stronger lighter better built saw and he can give me a smoking deal on it($399)

Left with a echo detacable trimmer with trimmer, saw blade, tiller, edger. A cs500p w/18" bar with case, oil, aspen premix
Ran nearly 3 tanks of fuel through it yesterday. Had a bad bar right off the hop. 4 cuts in and the sprocket on the tip seized up. (10mins before dealer closed) they stayed for me and did a quick exchange.

I've downed some good size dead trees that were too close to the power lines (and leaning that way) total wood cut is just over 2 chords now.

Wow that was long winded but gives the background so my questions can be answered

First off I really thought I would have more power. When cutting a 12" spruce stump If I pushed I could easily stall the chain out and a cut would take around 25 seconds. The bigger saws I used when I was younger would have sliced through as it was butter.
Now is this from lack of power, dull chain , or in exp?
Keep in mind chain is 1 day old.

How long should I wait before a mm? Any break in time. The shop said they tuned my saw but it is definitely not 4stroking more just a weeeeeeeeeen but not as high revving as I imagined it would be. Also after a bigger cut (18"tree) if I let go of throttle immediately the saw dies.

How often does one sharpen a chain? I feel like mine could use a sharpen already.

Would that husky 455 been a better buy?

 

[bryanr2]

Echo is a much better choice between those two. It's a pro saw. That Husq is a typical garbage/ homeowner saw- overwieght and underpowered. May need more "fine tuning" and yes there is a break in period with every saw. Mod your muffler as soon as you want to void the warranty (which for me would be as soon as I got it home.)

 

[machinisttx]

A new, out of the box, saw will not have as much power as the same saw with 10-20 tanks of fuel through it. A muffler mod will increase the power some, but if the carb isn't fully adjustable, you'll probably burn the saw up due to it running lean. Echo apparently likes to tune saws lean anyway, so it would be wise to learn how to properly adjust the carb. As far as the chain goes, if you haven't sharpened it, it's probably dull. That's especially true if you're flush cutting or let the chain hit dirt while bucking.

A 50cc saw will never be a 70cc saw. Keep the chain sharp and run some more fuel through it. Edit: I usually touch up my chain every time I stop to refuel.

 

[7sleeper]

I wasn't sure to post here or in the 101 section.
Bit about me 28yo first time sawer. May have cut a maximum of 2 chords previously with some 70some cc saws.

I have about 20 14 to 20" standing dead trees to down several stumps to flush cut then grind and lots of dead fall to cut up and chip.

Went in to several shops and told them the same.

Husky dealer rec a 455 ($529.00)
Another shop sells both stihl and husky said a 455($519)
Went to another that sells husky echo jonersered
He said 455 is great ($499 as I bought my toro lawnmower frok him)
However said the echo cs500p wis a stronger lighter better built saw and he can give me a smoking deal on it($399)

Left with a echo detacable trimmer with trimmer, saw blade, tiller, edger. A cs500p w/18" bar with case, oil, aspen premix
Ran nearly 3 tanks of fuel through it yesterday. Had a bad bar right off the hop. 4 cuts in and the sprocket on the tip seized up. (10mins before dealer closed) they stayed for me and did a quick exchange.
Great buy on the echo! Much better than the husky!
I've downed some good size dead trees that were too close to the power lines (and leaning that way) total wood cut is just over 2 chords now.

Wow that was long winded but gives the background so my questions can be answered

First off I really thought I would have more power. When cutting a 12" spruce stump If I pushed I could easily stall the chain out and a cut would take around 25 seconds. The bigger saws I used when I was younger would have sliced through as it was butter. 70 & 50cc are two totally different classes of hardware! First off I would check what type of chain you have on your saw and if the rakers are filed down correctly. Second saws need some time to break in.
Now is this from lack of power, dull chain , or in exp?
Keep in mind chain is 1 day old.

How long should I wait before a mm? Any break in time. The shop said they tuned my saw but it is definitely not 4stroking more just a weeeeeeeeeen but not as high revving as I imagined it would be. Also after a bigger cut (18"tree) if I let go of throttle immediately the saw dies.
Break in time ~10-20 refills! MM can be done immediately because echo is supposed to be quite restrictive from the beginning. Usually the saw is tuned rather consevetly in the pre break in time. After you amount of refills have it retuned again.
How often does one sharpen a chain? I feel like mine could use a sharpen already. Stumping is one of the hardest things in chainsawing. One second in the dirt and your chain is dull! Simple rule big chips no sharpening needed, small chips or "dust" alot of sharpening needed! When sharpening don't forget the rakers!

Would that husky 455 been a better buy?

No husky is definately not the better saw!

7

 

[nohandle]

Are you sure your not too tight on the chain? I have never ruined a sprocket tip. I have about 600 hours on a 272xp with the same bar/sprocket. If your chain is too tight it does many bad things, however drag would go to giving up a lot of power on a small saw. ...



Edit: i have ruined bars and chains, just not the bar sprocket.

 

[sunfish]

Husqvarna makes better saws! Just need to learn models!

In your shoes, I would have bought a 346xp, 545, 550xp, 357xp, 359, 555 or 562xp. In other words a pro quality saw that is lighter, stronger and better build quality. These models between 50-60cc.

That little Echo might be alright, but you need to learn to sharpen a chain. Sharpen at the first sign it is getting dull, every couple tanks, or more often...

 

[Philbert]

A 50cc saw will never be a 70cc saw. Keep the chain sharp and run some more fuel through it. Edit: I usually touch up my chain every time I stop to refuel.

Welcome to A.S.!

I have not run those saws, so I can't judge that, but can echo (excuse the pun) the comments above. That's why a lot of guys have different sizes of saws, for falling, bucking, limbing, etc.

The chain really is the most important part of cutting ability, so maybe work with your dealer or a friend to learn how to keep a chain sharp, and to get the most out of whichever saw(s) you run.

Philbert

 

[zogger]

Brand new saw like that, I would get them all down before I started stumping. Give it a chance to break in a little.

the dealer may have tuned it, but...don't know if that means tuned to the limits of the limiters, or a more real world tune. Plus like has been said, mufflers may be restricted.

Plus +1 on sharp chains, don't wait until real dull, stop and touch it up when needed.

Up at the top of the page are some stickies, scroll down to chainsaw FAQs, inside, find tons of info on sharpening and assorted whatnot, and be sure to use chaps, etc!

 

[Clarkbug]

Definitely start with your chain.

You said you have cut 2 cords of wood, plus stumping, and havent sharpened yet? I would say go back to your dealer, buy a couple of loops of chain (without bumper links or folder rakers or the like). Get your original chain sharpened, or buy the kit to sharpen yourself. Keep one of your chains to use for stumping, since its probably gonna get thrashed from the dirt and crud near the ground.

Have them check the tune on the saw to see it its changed since you have run it some. Might as well take advantage of the warranty, and now is a good time to get to know your dealer better.

Running a 16" bar on the saw might help it feel a little better for you, since it wont have as much bar to bog down on.

Like others have said, run a few more tanks through it, see how it breaks in, and go from there. Other posts here have said a muffler mod really wakes these saws up, but thats at the expense of your warranty (which I would want to keep for a bit)

Good luck!

 

[yakcatr]

Thanks for all the quick replies.

I have a husky sharpening kit. (2round files a guide and a flat file)
I just did a sharpen on it but didn't touch the rakers as I didn't quite know what needed to be done to it. Looks like its time to do some more reading.
Saw has much larger flakes now but still not as smooth cutting as the first couple cuts.

When the sproket seized the shop had adjusted the chain and said to check after 5 cuts. I only made 4 cuts before it seized.
I am checking it now religiously.

How much more power will it get as it breaks in? 5% 10% 2%? Roughly as everything will differ.
The pro husky are much much more $ than the 4to $500 I was willing to spend. (Spent $1500 on yard tools yesterday)
I was checking used market but everything was beat or very high priced.
Eyeing a 372xpg that popped up this morning used for 2 weeks for $500.
Canadian prices are more than us

 

[sunfish]

After reading your post again, two cords cut, plus stumping and not sharpening your chain is a huge problem and could burn up even a good saw!

I'd say one or two sharpening per cord is about what I do. This takes me 5 minutes with a file.

 

[nohandle]

I was looking up exchange rates the other day. USD and Canadians dollars are almost equal instead of the 2 for 1 i remember when young. If the money is equal, why do Canadians and Australian pay so much extra for big saws?

 

[blsnelling]

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but bottom line, you bought an under powered saw. If you mod the muffler and retune, you'll be much happier. But, it's still what it is.

 

[sunfish]

Eyeing a 372xpg that popped up this morning used for 2 weeks for $500.
Canadian prices are more than us

That would be a deal down here. Even more of a deal up there!

 

[z71mike]

What are the chances you hit dirt when stumping? That could explain the wrecked sprocket tip, if it got packed with dirt.

And no one touched on the stalling yet. But I'm thinking if the sprocket nose started to seize, it could have caused excessive drag and overheated the engine. Which could explain the stalling.

Did you hit dirt at all?

I would buy another muffler online and mod it. Install and retune. That way if you need any warranty repairs, put the stock muffler back on.

 

[Str8six]

Sell the Echo and search the web for a used Stihl 044. (be prepared to spend a little but its well worth it) Head to the Stihl dealer and get you a 25" bar and an RSC chain to go on it and get out there and cut some wood! If you aren't smiling ear to ear after the first cut, I will gladly buy the saw from you!

 

[exSW]

If you horse on some of these smaller saws you can slip the clutch.Take it easy and let the saw cut.The saw will get stronger as it breaks in and I think clutches also need some time to run in.I slipped the clutch on my 420 when it was new but it hasn't been a problem since.Also buy two new(non safety) chains,keep them sharp and change them out.Flip the bar when you change chains the lettering DOES NOT have to go up.Consider buying a higher quality bar to go with your new cahins,factory bars on smaller saws suck,they have to do something to keep price competitive with the big box stuff.

 

[joesmith]

Take a look at the carb screws....sounds to me from your post like the L screw needs turned out.


And I think the 455 would be the more powerful saw...

 

[zogger]

I was looking up exchange rates the other day. USD and Canadians dollars are almost equal instead of the 2 for 1 i remember when young. If the money is equal, why do Canadians and Australian pay so much extra for big saws?

That is called an extra special big government nanny fee...the USA is headed that way too...

 

[Philip Wheelock]

My experience with a Stihl ms260 Pro, a 50cc saw with moderate power:

When new, the saw was generally cut slower than expected. Dealer said he tuned it a bit rich out of the box; said put 7 1/2 tanks through it, bring it back and he'd give it a final tuning. He retuned to 14,100 rpm WOT. Different saw after that; felt like it had an extra gear. I run the sharpest chain I can manage and resharpen every re-fueling. Check the depth gauge height every other re-fueling. Have three 16" .325 pitch chains which I rotate every 4 hrs of run time.

When I think about it, every time I've felt that the saw wasn't cutting quickly, it's turned out to be a chain issue. There's a significant difference in cutting speed between sharp and super sharp, and it takes more time than you'd think to learn the skills.