Brainstorm-> Ideas for mobile bucking operation w/ hand saw for Joe Blow

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I already have a 100-foot 12-gauge extension cord for my mower. I thought electric chain saws stop the rotating blade the second you let off the trigger. DO gas ones do the same? Also, though not necessarily a safety feature, I figure the lighter weight can't hurt?

By the time you spend money on a electric chainsaw and a heavy enough cord to run it you could have bought a wild thing or similar gas chainsaw. Both would be equally as dangerous and strenuous to operate but as least you have the freedom to use the gas powered saw anywhere you please...
 
Couple of ideas:

- I have built some small, folding saw bucks from short 2X4s and pieces of scrap plywood
(post # 19 in this thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/131597-2.htm ).
Cheap. Light. Folds flat into the rear of my Corolla. You can make it any size that you want.

- For GREEN wood up to about 2" diameter, I sometimes use a pair of long handle, heavy duty, anvil style, lopping shears. I burn branches from 1 - 2 inches diameter in my fireplace insert, and also use them for kindling. Also use the loppers to prune off smaller branches I don't want, or to reduce them to a tighter pile.

- Bailey's sells a portable log holder that works with chainsaws, but I don't think that it would be stable enough for a bow saw:
Bailey's - Smart-Holder Firewood Holder due to the pushing motion.

- My battery powered chainsaw (Oregon 40 V) is good for wood up to 6 - 8 inches in diameter, and I have pushed it to 14 inches. It is not cheap, but would work for what you are doing breaking stuff down a little, but not doing final cutting. A battery powered reciprocal saw might also work with a tree cutting blade (Skill, Bosch, Craftsman, and others sell these - similar tooth pattern to your bow saw). I sometimes use this for pruning shrubs like lilacs, where the trunks are close together. Again, not recommending this for all your cutting, just for breaking down a few longer pieces.

- I use my electric chainsaws with a 100 foot, 14 gauge cord all the time. I have even done storm clean up with them, and the people like that they are not as noisy. Might not work everywhere, but might work some of the time. I use my small sawbuck with these too.

- You might think about a small trailer or roof box for your car that would let you carry longer pieces, reducing the number of cut you make.

- Take along a friend with a chainsaw and split the wood and the work! That might also be a way to learn how to use the chainsaw and give you and idea of what type you might like.

Philbert
 
Stihl 170 is on sale here for $229, it will cut everything you can throw at it and will still be worth decent money to sell when you are done with it. Small safe saw to operate and run cheaply. I bet you have more dangerous equipment in your kitchen. Mor echance getting hurt in a car than with a chainsaw I bet.
 
Surprised I haven't heard this yet. Get a gas chainsaw, and the protective gear to go with it. Then you can TRY to cut your leg off and not get hurt. Then, you will have the appropriate tools to do the job, get in, get wood, and get out. Your fiancee will rest easier knowing you are protected. Then, get a 4x6 trailer for that Honda!

But, if hand tools really are your thing (and there is nothing wrong with that) get the log stand Bailey's - Peavey Mfg 3-1/2' Timberjack. I don't know if it will hold it still well enough for a bow saw, but it will probably help some.
 
Electric saws are no safer then gas saws. Indeed, one can make a good argument you're safer with a gas saw + chaps which will stop a gas saw if there's an accident. Most if not all chaps aren't designed to stop an electric saw, too much torque and they'll keep cutting through the fibers that jam up even large gas saws.

But electric saws are the cat's meow working around the house. Lots of power for their weight, they always start. I have an electric one normally used on a pole saw, once in a blue moon I'll have some wood near the house and will use it as a regular chainsaw and the only drawback is I have to remember it's a push button oiler unlike the automatics on my gassers.

And since folks keep mentioning how little room a saw takes up in a car...
P7291529_small.jpg


That's a good size saw (Husky 372XP...definitely NOT a newbie saw), gas, oil, chaps, helmet, wedges, and Fiskars splitting ax in the plastic case. Just had to make sure I chatted with friends till the saw cooled off afterwards before I re-packed everything.
 
Welcome to AS! I agree with MAC, build ya a mini folding saw buck like the one Philbert made. That is, IF ya's gonna insist on doing things the hard way! You're a member of Arboristsite now, resistance is futile! You are gonna end up with a fleet of chain saws, and a log splitter, maybe a full-on processor. Get rid of the Honda cause you gonna need a King Ranch edition F350 crew cab 4x4 turbo diesel to pull around the tandem axle goose neck log haulin trailer with a skid steer on it. Just the way it is. If your SO has a problem with it, get rid of her, better now than later when she can make you sell all your equipment and then take half of it!!! :laugh:

Now then, since we are all on the same page now, like others said, go getcha a starter saw. CL is a good place for a nice little 14" brand whatever, good enough to start with. Gotta get ya some basic safety gear, gloves, ear plugs, safety glasses, ST boots, chaps, at a minimum! Oh, the most important thing, some chainsaw safety training. There is some good online training around here somewhere, U tube maybe? Hopefully someone will come along that can tell us exactly where to find that info. The little Stihl 170 cantoo mentioned would be a good choice too. FYI, I saw the 170 (I think) on sale here locally recently for $175.

Had no idea what a can-o-worm yous openin, didja?! Like I said, welcome to AS man! :hmm3grin2orange:

EDIT: Just read reply #28, I forgot to add a fireplace insert and a wood fired furnace to the required equipment list ya gonna end up with...just sayin. :msp_biggrin:
 
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I already have a 100-foot 12-gauge extension cord for my mower. I thought electric chain saws stop the rotating blade the second you let off the trigger. DO gas ones do the same? Also, though not necessarily a safety feature, I figure the lighter weight can't hurt?

Don't count on instant stop w/electric. Forget the low-end Stihls, because of extreme bottom end frailty that you can't see from outside. I'm guessing a cs-310 (Echo) would be about perfect for you. Good buys avail from vminnovations dot com on non-pro Husqvarnas.

I'm not far from you, and could easily arrange a little show-and-tell on some options you have. Even an intro DO/DO NOT on chainsaw safety- getting the basics straight will keep it enjoyable. With ALL chainsaws and protective stuff, safety is a relative thing; what you do can keep you whole. Send a PM if interested. No charge. ;)

Oh ... almost forgot. Chainsaws don't have a "blade." They have a bar and a chain. Nearest thing to a blade would be the bar. Terminology's important around here, you know.

All recent gas chainsaws have a chain brake. A flick of the wrist against the brake handle will stop the chain NOW.
 
Electric saws are no safer then gas saws.

If the saw will cut your wood it will cut your leg. There are pros/cons on electric saws, and several threads here on A.S. you can search through, but if you get an electric saw, get a good one, not a cheap one, and learn how to keep the chain sharp.

Just re-read your original post on the 'ammo can stove' and think I understand what you are trying to do. I can't say this more clearly than:
Do not burn a camping stove in your fireplace. Buy an UL approved fireplace insert.
The risks for CO poisoning and structural fire are too great if the stove is not designed for indoor use and permanently connected to a properly installed chimney.

Philbert
 
Don't be afraid of chainsaw acquisition disorder (CAD). It is contagious, but there are plenty of us here with A saw. We still get the job done, and have more money in our pockets after it is all over. It is a tool, it doesn't have to be a hobby, if you don't want it to be.

Firewood is great and all, don't get me wrong. But around here, it is just another chore that needs to be done. It's just better than mucking stalls.
 
Nothing wrong at all with cutting with a quality bowsaw and a sharp blade. I did it for years, living in maine, where heating is a "no joke" proposition. 4 cords for heat, 2-3 for sugaring. it's doable if your arm is in decent shape enough. Once you get a real good rhythm and learn to cut, it just isn't that hard if you stick to reasonable diameter wood. Most guys have really never cut large quantities by hand, so, they don't know it is possible, and just dismiss the notion. I know diferent. 36" long bar is a good stroke, but look at the cutting distance from blade to handle. That full distance is just too large for handsawing with those type saws, for extended sawing I mean, go no more than 2/3rds that and you won't get whipped and can keep sawing. plus the rounds won't be heavy and easier to tote and split if needed. You will actually get MORE wood by cutting smaller diameter before you get whipped. Just like the difference swinging a lightweight fiskars over a conventional heavy maul. i can get a lot more busted up (most wood, most of the time) using that light axe over the maul. If I use a heavy maul, not too long after starting I am looking for an excuse to go do something else...a good athlete puts out 1/3rd horsepower or so, so you have to use "gearing" for the best production.

Same as a chainsaw, keep the blade sharp on the bowsaw by keeping it out of the dirt, or just don't cut dirty wood, look elsewhere.

That Baileys log holder tool looks dang spiffy, light weight, portable, puts a log or branch at a good height to cut up.

I have the same battery saw philbert does, works great. spendy, but works great and is the easiest chainsaw to use out there. No yank starting, instant on/off, built in sharpener. maintenance is a little cleaning, that's it. No mix fuel to deal with, and barely sips bar oil. No fuel lines to change or air filter or fuel filters or clutches. There is a drive sprocket, gonna take you a looong time to wear one out. Works just fine for smaller diameter wood, what you want to get any way. Get the extended battery, don't bother with the stock smaller battery, not cost effective. Yes, it is light duty but good enough for some firewood, if you keep it in the sweet spot range, as recommended above, or you can dig out the long review thread here to check it out more in depth.

If you take all the little trims off the branches with a hatchet first, then every cut with the saw is a "keeper cut" and you get a LOT more wood in the stack per battery charge. Took me a bit to remember this factoid when I relearned it...Or, with the bowsaw stroke. Trim hatchet/axe is great combo to the little saw or a bowsaw.

if you at sometime want a gas chainsaw..sigh..there are hundreds of similar threads "which one to get" on this site, primarily over on the chainsaw forum, although some here on the firewood forum as well. You can just keep scrolling back by page forever and two days and find them. Covers any possible conceivable budget/tree/cutting needs/brands/size/combination of saws into "plans", bars/chains, new/used whatever.

Used, good shape, running, from a member here in the auctions thread is a decent place to look for the most cut for the buck.


Oh, neogeezer advice. Do NOT let them get away with not "allowing" you this or that tool, BAD precedent. You'll be sorrrrreeeeee. You're a guy, you get to have any tool you want and can afford after the bills are paid, including second amendment tools if that comes up, no negotiations.
 
Dadgum handsaw will lead to repetitive use injurys, and exacerbate the existing injurys.....Get a Doc's note if you have to.

Get a saw.

The electrics are LESS safe overall, and you WILL cut the dadgum cord sooner or later?
How's the GF feel about you getting electrocuted?

Stay safe!
Dingeryote
 
Thangs My Fiance Was Not a Fan Of

  1. Farting
  2. Snoring
  3. Beer
  4. More than one dehydrator at a time
  5. Iron Maiden
  6. Road Rage
  7. St. Bernards
  8. Cussing
  9. Tearing out ceilings and leaving it that way
  10. Building 24x28 garage then asking where to put it
  11. College waitress at steakhouse who giggles
  12. Teaching boy to fart
  13. Deer Jerky

Sorry Honey.
 
WAAAY too many damn funny straight lines laid out in the preceding posts else I'd have a mile long-er post....

You MUST send PICS of the wife.

It all started in the first post when you said you moved your fiancee in it, in the last month. I'm thinking, I sure hope so....

Next. Grow a pair, and a spine, in a hurry. Actually you prolly just need the spine, with it, you can take back your cojones.

You raced motorcycles, and you're thinking you want an electric saw? Were they the kind out in front of the grocery store your mom put a quarter in? This might explain the electric thing, and maybe the dominatrix thing too.

I mean, DAMN, IF you cant start a MS 170 or a Echo CS300, maybe she can.

All you need is a MS 170 in a case, and your 4 banger FIT. You fuel and oil it, and get after your wood, don't need no stinking gas can or oil, you'll slay so much wood on one tankful, you wont be able to get your junk in her trunk....

Leave the Misery Whip at home, and the weenie stands, and fly yer flag high, You gotta leave a couple of four inch sticks about 5'4" long and hang them out the hatch window, the rest stacked to the ceiling of your perfectly inefficient wood scrounger. Actually, I think as easily as you moved your Misery Whip in, You can move her out, back to her parents just as easy.

Why you'd wanna take guff, and still have to jerk off a bow saw on top of all that, ain't worth it. Know what? Even pictures couldn't prove it would be worth all that.

We might have to pull your man card and send you back for remedial training.

And then there's this one too.

You know why divorces are so expensive right?

'CAUSE THEY'RE WORTH IT.
 
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WAAAY too many damn funny straight lines laid out in the preceding posts else I'd have a mile long-er post....

You MUST send PICS of the wife.

It all started in the first post when you said you moved your fiancee in it, in the last month. I'm thinking, I sure hope so....

Next. Grow a pair, and a spine, in a hurry. Actually you prolly just need the spine, with it, you can take back your cojones.

You raced motorcycles, and you're thinking you want an electric saw? Were they the kind out in front of the grocery store your mom put a quarter in? This might explain the electric thing, and maybe the dominatix thing too.

I mean, DAMN, IF you cant start a MS 170 or a Echo CS300, maybe she can.

All you need is a MS 170 in a case, and your 4 banger FIT. You fuel and oil it, and get after your wood, don't need no stinking gas can or oil, you'll slay so much wood on one tankful, you wont be able to get your junk in her trunk....

Leave the Misery Whip at home, and the weenie stands, and fly yer flag high, You gotta leave a couple of four inch sticks about 5'4" long and hang them out the hatch window, the rest stacked to the ceiling of your perfectly inefficient wood scrounger. Actually, I think as easily as you moved your Misery Whip in, You can move her out, back to her parents just as easy.

Why you'd wanna take guff, and still have to jerk off a bow saw on top of all that, ain't worth it. Know what? Even pictures couldn't prove it would be worth all that.

We might have to pull your man card and send you back for remedial training.

And then there's this one too.

You know why divorces are so expensive right?

'CAUSE THEY'RE WORTH IT.

But tell us how you really feel...


:laugh:
 
Don't count on instant stop w/electric. Forget the low-end Stihls, because of extreme bottom end frailty that you can't see from outside. I'm guessing a cs-310 (Echo) would be about perfect for you. Good buys avail from vminnovations dot com on non-pro Husqvarnas.

I'm not far from you, and could easily arrange a little show-and-tell on some options you have. Even an intro DO/DO NOT on chainsaw safety- getting the basics straight will keep it enjoyable. With ALL chainsaws and protective stuff, safety is a relative thing; what you do can keep you whole. Send a PM if interested. No charge. ;)

Oh ... almost forgot. Chainsaws don't have a "blade." They have a bar and a chain. Nearest thing to a blade would be the bar. Terminology's important around here, you know.

All recent gas chainsaws have a chain brake. A flick of the wrist against the brake handle will stop the chain NOW.

He should take you up on the offer. Run some saws, see if the bum arm will really be a problem or not.
 

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