Brush Cutter

[trelane]

I have an acre of medium to heavy brush and small saplings. I'd like to keep the paths and a few open areas clear.

I have a cheap string trimmer that can't take a blade attachment and string won't do the job.

Can anyone recommend a $200 brush cutter? I don't need extra attachments and I don't want to spend a fortune for a tool purchased for a secondary purpose.

 

[fsfcks]

Something used from criagslist? Or rent as required?

Or Troy Bilt make a $70 or less add-on "brush cutter" attachment which uses their Quick Link connector system. It would be slow and underpowered but inexpensive if you already have a compatible power head.
http://www.troybilt.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_14102_18303_54987_-1

 

[computeruser]

I guess I'll answer it on this forum, too.

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My first thought: you're going to have to increase your budget. I suspect that there are few string trimmers that are worth a darn for serious use at the $200 price point (none spring to mind), and can assure you that NOTHING at the $200 price point will run a blade acceptably.

I know of a few people who have put blades on Echo SRM260 (26cc, both cable and solid shaft versions) and have accomplished a lot of brushing. But it was slow, and required a gentle touch to keep the machine in its power band. I know that my SRM260 will lose RPM in heavy grass with standard-length .095 line, and I can't imagine it wanting to run a blade on woody brush.

What you will need, frankly, is a 30cc+ machine. Stihl's models are the ones I'm most familiar with, and you'd want to look at the FS250 and FS350 as your best choices for blade use on brush and small saplings; an FS130 would probably work, though you won't save that much coin over the FS250. I've got an FS200 (36cc non-EPA version of the 40cc EPA-friendly FS250), and run a tri-blade on it almost exclusively. It is enough machine to handle brush duty, yet light and nimble enough to run a line head in heavy grass, too.

The unfortunate truth is that saplings require a LOT more guts to a trimmer/brushcutter than is required for grass and soft vines. Stouter driveshafts and clutches, coupled with much more powerful engines, are simply required. You will abuse/wear out a smaller machine in short order, and have a miserable time using it in the meantime, if you opt for something in the $200 range (i.e. Echo SRM210, 230, Stihl FS55).

The other problem that you're going to find is that these truly blade-capable machines, being more specialized and much more expensive, tend to be purchased by people who actually need them, so you see fewer of them on the used market than you do with <$300 string trimmers, which are purchased by the thousands every year by homeowners looking for a step-up from a box store Homelite or Ryobi machine.

 

[Vangellis]

This works for me...about 3 years now.

Husqvarna 326 LDX It was $400 with the brushcutter kit.

And no, it didn't cut the logs in the picture.



Kevin

 

[Elmore]

Serious Brush Cutter

Shindaiwa B450

Displacement 2.5 cu. in. (41.5 cc)

Output 2.3 hp (1.7 kW)

Dry Weight* 18.9 lbs. (8.6 kg)

Fuel Capacity 34 oz. (1000 ml)

 

[Tree Machine]

The unfortunate truth is that saplings require a LOT more guts to a trimmer/brushcutter than is required for grass and soft vines.

The other unfortunate truth is that cut-off saplings come back in multiple, with an ever-increasing root system.

The saplings need to be pulled by the roots. That is it for them. Then you can mow your field or paths with the extended hedge pruner, much faster than a circular blade because you're taking a 24" wide swath, and with the hedge pruner head two-sided, you can cut that wide swath either left or right.

7 or 8 years ago I bought one of the last Husqvarna combo boxes, a 32 cc power head with straight-shaft and interchangable heads, almost identical the Vangellis' picture. See the picture for where the interchangable shafts interchange. Mine had a string trimmer and interchangable blade that would change over at that same place, and an angled hedge pruner head, and a sidewalk edger that each will attach where the red arrow is.

I have never used the edger, used to use the string trimmer but don't anymore, quit using the blade because it was so slow compared to the hedge pruner and the hedge pruner itself?, that gets used every now and then when it suits the job. Large swaths of tall grass is where it really kicks ass. And hedges and bushes of course.

It would serve a landscape guy much better than it does me. It could be a very money-making tool but see, I climb and it doesn't. The whole kit came in a reinforced, wooden, lockable tote box. One of my most-favorite, least used power tools. I like the versatility of it.

It's a multi-purpose, commercial-quality tool and should last many years. Vangellis has almost exactly what you need, but the hedge pruner attachment is a MUST for what you want to do. Those three options should cover you completely. You should make it go out and pay for itself over a couple days so you don't have to moan the price.



The saplings are kinda fun to yank out by the roots if you have the right tool. Its kinda testosteroney, and once they're out by the roots, they're out. Its over.

You'd be surprised how fast you can uproot a hundred saplings (less than wrist-diameter).

How much area are you talking about, an acre? That could be 50 saplings or 50,000.

 

[computeruser]

The other unfortunate truth is that cut-off saplings come back in multiple, with an ever-increasing root system.

Not if you hit the little stumps with some Garlon when you're done!

 

[cityevader]

What you need for permanent removal without regrowth is a product similar to a T-post puller, that cam-action tightens onto the trunk as you lever down the handle. Leaving roots behind may be only temporarily clearing it.

Anybody know a brand name to search for? I've seen several styles in the past but wouldn't know how to Google it.

 

[WesternSaw]

Treetrimmer and Vangellis

Okay fellas I think I would like to jump in on this.I have the new Stihl Kombi 90 R machine.I bought it with the the trimmer head added the blower and a brush blade.Well the trimmer is great,the blower is category 1 storm,seems pretty powerful to me.Now the brushcutter blade I put to use on some blackberry brush a few day's ago.It really did well on the 1/4 inch and a little thicker stuff,but i could see when it cut the bigger stuff it was not taking it off as clean,the cut ends of the thicker stuff was fragmented, so to speak.The engine did not seem that it was struggling though.I have now touched up the blade a bit "sharpened" it as the factrory edge I thought was not that great and will give it a test later.Now here is the second part.I have this old chainsaw attachment a BrushKing,that came with,a Pioneer model1200 chainsaw engine.I think it's 50cc's.Everything is there except for a blade,the washer's and nut for the blade were on the threaded end.the mounting arbor has three sides so I guess I will have to get a custom made blade for it and get a guard for it as well.Safety First.But i am still searching high and low for a service manual and owners manual for this machine.You can view it on the Pioneer collector thread page 18.If you know anything about this machine let me know Please.Okay Sorry about the running on at the mouth!
Lawrence

 

[masiman]

What you need for permanent removal without regrowth is a product similar to a T-post puller, that cam-action tightens onto the trunk as you lever down the handle. Leaving roots behind may be only temporarily clearing it.

Anybody know a brand name to search for? I've seen several styles in the past but wouldn't know how to Google it.

I have heard of Weed Wrench, Extractigator and Puller Bear. You can probably google them to find some reviews.

 

[Tree Machine]

The saplings are kinda fun to yank out by the roots if you have the right tool. Its kinda testosteroney, and once they're out by the roots, they're out. Its over.

You'd be surprised how fast you can uproot a hundred saplings (less than wrist-diameter).

I have heard of Weed Wrench, Extractigator and Puller Bear.

These are the types of tools I was referring to. They are very, very, very, very effective. Literally, 100%.

I have a weedwrench. It paid for itself in one afternoon and it keeps giving and giving. They're basically indestructable.

 

[Tree Machine]

They're a really nice alternative to putting poison out into the environment.

 

[fsfcks]

Tree Machine...I am just starting a large clearing operation and those hand tools look very interesting. They also give an immediate effect in that the area is cleared that day. My wife and I are not keen on the herbicide approach, and for the smaller brush those tools should work well. It would also be cost effective since Remedy generic + diesel is nearly $100 per 4 gallon tank. Thanks for your post.

 

[Tree Machine]

I can only speak for the weedwrench, but by the looks of the other brands of sapling pullers, they would likely do just as well.

The puller gives you a 6:1 mechanical advantage. That means if your wife pulls the handle with 50 pounds of force, she creates 300 pounds of upward pull. Most saplings don't need anywhere near that. The more force you pull with, the tighter the jaws grip

My first day out with the weedwrench was along a rocky shoreline. Honeysuckle bushes were growing out of the embankment up through the rocks. I bought the weedwrench specially for this job. It was a $200 weedwrench and a $300 job, and though it took me better than 3 hours to complete the job, I was very thoroughly impressed, working on a steep slope, positioning the weedwrench base on rocks and yankin those suckers out like, impressive. It is much easier to use it on more level ground.

Even though I'm a climbing Arborist, I use the weedwrench fairly regularly because if you just cut the saplings off and leave them, it's sort of a superficial service, you're giving a temporary visual improvement, but you're not really doing the client any favors because you'll take the money and run, but the saplings will come back. Pulling saplings by the roots is profitable, genuinely fun in a weird way and just a really good service to the customer (and fast). I yank vines now and then, too, especially gargantuan poison ivy stalks.

Pull one sapling with the weedwrench and you've pretty much climbed the learning curve. There are a few techniques you'll learn, then it's all about getting the speed up, yanking 5 or 6 or more a minute consistently. it depends on size and if there's fenceline in the way and whether or not you choose to cut the sapling off first and pull the stub out, or pull the whole plant at once. Bushy plants you'll often cut first; it just makes it easier to get the jaws around the stump not having the bush in your way.

Just get the biggest of the sizes offered. You can pull even the smallest seedling with the weedwrench, but honestly when they get really small, use vise-grips or channel-lock pliers.

 

[Tree Machine]

Your neighbors and friends will want to borrow this tool, you should sort of expect that.

 

[fsfcks]

Ordered a Extractigator (similar to medium Weed Wrench). For the 2" size there were several users who were Weed Wrench users who switched to Extractigator's and preferred them. I'll post my experiences later, although it will probably be a month or so by the time it arrives and I get to use it.