Building a chainsaw winch

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Justin Taylor

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Hi guys so I’m trying to build a chainsaw winch to give me something to do and I am at the point in design that I have to figure out how much to cut the bar. I’m using a 10t rim for cost effective I have it all drawn out. The dotted circle is the size of the 10t rim and the dotted straight line is how deep the bar groove is now this is we’re I need your guy see help. How should I go about cutting the bar groove deeper and the top of the rail? I have Dremel's and bench grinders. Thank you and I will be doing updates as I get more parts in as of right now. Btw I only will have about $55 into this and trying to keep it cheap
 

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[QUOTE="Justin Taylor, post: 7115867, member: 160587" I’m using a 10t rim for cost effective I have it all drawn out. The dotted circle is the size of the 10t rim and the dotted straight line is how deep the bar groove is now this is we’re I need your guy see help. How should I go about cutting the bar groove deeper and the top of the rail? [/QUOTE]

I’m trying to imagine what you’re trying to say based on the photo. You basically need to make the bar groove deeper on the cheep?

If that’s the case I would set up an angle grinder or Dremel if that’s all you got with the appropriate thickness cut-off wheel for the groove. Make a jig similar to a sliding mitre saw motion with scraps that allows you to make passes over the bar until you get to desired depth.



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[QUOTE="Justin Taylor, post: 7115867, member: 160587" I’m using a 10t rim for cost effective I have it all drawn out. The dotted circle is the size of the 10t rim and the dotted straight line is how deep the bar groove is now this is we’re I need your guy see help. How should I go about cutting the bar groove deeper and the top of the rail?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

yes I want to make it deeper in the cheap and yes it’s very hard for me to explain and thanks for the great idea
 
Get another bar and butt weld 2 tails together. Or, cut off the tail and the roller tip from that bar and butt weld them together. The roller tip will let the chain leave the end of the stubby bar at any angle you need.
 
Get another bar and butt weld 2 tails together. Or, cut off the tail and the roller tip from that bar and butt weld them together. The roller tip will let the chain leave the end of the stubby bar at any angle you need.
Great ideas but no welder and I don’t have any other bars to cut
 
So I got what I want to cut drawn out but I just don’t know if it’s going to be too step I guess I will have to figure it out as I go
 

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I have an 8,000 lb winch I built a number of years ago with 600 feet of air craft cable. This winch really gets the job done. It however is some what heavy and time consuming to set up. So I have been putting together a really lightweight version aimed at a 100 lb total weight. The difference between a chain saw motor and a four stroke 5 HP motor does not seem worth the effort to use a chain saw motor. I am using aluminum for 90% of all construction. My goal is to have about a 100 feet of 1/8'' to 1/4'' cable. It seems like it would be very helpful for moving stuff around like log splitter, large winch and small rounds. Thanks
 
Ok guys i finally got the time to throw it together but with no Logs to test it it’s hard to see how it will work but it will pull 23 feet of this nylon in in 2 seconds on half choke so I might have some more design to do and it needs 1 more bolt when I put some weight on it I’m planing on putting cable on there also. This was built for under $30 with stuff I already have
 

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Ok guys i finally got the time to throw it together but with no Logs to test it it’s hard to see how it will work but it will pull 23 feet of this nylon in in 2 seconds on half choke so I might have some more design to do and it needs 1 more bolt when I put some weight on it I’m planing on putting cable on there also. This was built for under $30 with stuff I already have

I have a boat winch like that though probably a bit bigger I think it could pull 1100 kg or so with two different gears, I use it to pull logs with manually.
I changed from wire to the nylon and I like it much better, the wire gets rolled on with different forces and it gets squeezed and ruined, also the nylon is much safer if something should snap.

Great idea to power it with a chainsaw engine, I would also think like you concluded with that it needs to be geared with a much bigger wheel/rim/sprocket at the winch side than at the engine side.
At the most even using the very slow gearing on mine it's really heavy to turn the large handle, so a chainsaw engine would definitely need to be geared a lot to pull with that kind of force.
 
I have a boat winch like that though probably a bit bigger I think it could pull 1100 kg or so with two different gears, I use it to pull logs with manually.
I changed from wire to the nylon and I like it much better, the wire gets rolled on with different forces and it gets squeezed and ruined, also the nylon is much safer if something should snap.

Great idea to power it with a chainsaw engine, I would also think like you concluded with that it needs to be geared with a much bigger wheel/rim/sprocket at the winch side than at the engine side.
At the most even using the very slow gearing on mine it's really heavy to turn the large handle, so a chainsaw engine would definitely need to be geared a lot to pull with that kind of force.
I might just stick with the nylon then and for rims I have 8 t on both sides and I could change the chainsaw to a 7t but idk how much that would really affect it is there any math equations for gear reduction
 
I wondered when you said 10T. I guess you didn’t mean on the saw.
tooth is direct proportion.
Going from 14 to 7 tooth on the saw would be double the torque and 1/2 the speed.
Go from 14 to 7 tooth on the winch would be half the torque and double the speed.
go from 14 to 7 tooth on both would mean no change. Lol
Sorry .......

Go from 8 to 7 tooth on the saw would mean 7/8 the speed and 8/7 the torque.
About 14% increase in torque
 
Thank
I wondered when you said 10T. I guess you didn’t mean on the saw.
tooth is direct proportion.
Going from 14 to 7 tooth on the saw would be double the torque and 1/2 the speed.
Go from 14 to 7 tooth on the winch would be half the torque and double the speed.
go from 14 to 7 tooth on both would mean no change. Lol
Sorry .......

Go from 8 to 7 tooth on the saw would mean 7/8 the speed and 8/7 the torque.
About 14% increase in torque
thanks I decided not to bother getting a 10t but might have too
 
Thank
thanks I decided not to bother getting a 10t but might have too

I think you should try it, but I don't think it will be nearly enough. Try to imagine a 10" bicycle gear on the winch side...
Another solution would be to make a several steps reduction gear, but again it would make it a lot more complicated and probably not anything like the simple idea you started with.
 
I think you should try it, but I don't think it will be nearly enough. Try to imagine a 10" bicycle gear on the winch side...
Another solution would be to make a several steps reduction gear, but again it would make it a lot more complicated and probably not anything like the simple idea you started with.
Yea I think another problem I’m going to run into is the clutch but won’t be able to test tell the spring
 
And were are you going to chain this contraption so it can pull ?

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No hate here.

Two stroke one of those Clinton 2.5 hp panther engines or a reo two stroke engine. Using a clutch with a chain sprocket #35/#41 using four sprockets with a mechanical advantage. Now you need a brake band on the clutch drum. A hand locking brake assembly I think Coleman’s surplus has them. Get a five lug rim and spindle for your cable hook.
 

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