Building with Logs......

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RatliffLogging

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Hickville, Kentucky
I have taken on the project of building a new log home for my wife. I am using eastern red cedar log and milling them into 8X12 square logs. After milling them I have been dadoing them top and bottom with a 3/4"by 1 and 1/8in deep dado. I am using the dado to take a spline cut from 3/4" plywood. When they are stacked I will end up with a chinkless log system. Now I am at the point of finding a roofing system. I know this much I want a pitch of 12/10 and metal roofing but should I use tresses or stick build? Also ant other ideas are more then welcome. This is the second time I have built a cabin using the splines and dado method but the last one was just 22ft by 24ft as a rental. email all thoughts to [email protected]
 
Most truss systems will eliminate usable attic space. Trusses also usually require a "crew" to assemble,sometimes even a small crane or a Lull. Stick built will give you a usable attic and can be assembled w/ only two people or one with some inventive braces and supports.

Or maybe you are looking for an airy cathedral ceiling? Then, I would go posy and beam.
 
Mike I was looking at engineered trusses that would be a 12/14 pitch outside and 12/10 inside making a vaulted ceiling. I got the crew and the crane.....Logging requires tools...lol. I was thinking post and beam but I am not a builder and know nothing of post and beam. If someone knows about it get in contact with me.....$20 an hour to project manage and build the roof system....Ideas please.
 
In that case I would definitlely go w/ the pre-engineered trusses. It will give you the desired effect and you know that they will perform as needed. Trying to stick build a similar vault can certainly be done but then involves drawings and engineering and a lot of mucking about w/ silly angles and cuts. You've got access to the most expensive part of the truss system, the equipment and manpower.

Post and beam would ideally be a "from the ground up" type of endeavor but you could go back and add "false" post and beam after the truss system is in place. Once the drywall is installed, the trusses are hidden and all that is exposed are you fake posts and beams.
 
I'll be starting construction on a similar project. My new shop will be a 24' x 46' milled Cedar log shop. I'll be using 4/12 scissor trusses and adding artifical beams. To correctly enginer & build timber framed trusses would be costly. Plus you may need additonal footings for posts to sit on if you are using post and beam. If it's in the budget I would say go for it because a full log or timber frame structure is a beautiful thing. If your like me and on a budget trusses and artifical beams can still put a smile on your face.

Dale
 
We've got both kinds in our log cabin. Maybe I can get a photo or two on here for you to help make up your mind. We did an addition recently with a vaulted cieling so went with the engineered trusses and icynene insulation. No more beetles crawling out of the ceiling and windows. No more mice making their homes in the insulation. We'll end up putting some pine boards over the trusses to finish it off for a nice look. We did the original roof with a King post style truss. Looks nice but space near the ends of the walls is limited. Also had shingles, now switched over entirely to metal roof. Looks awesome now. RL, great idea to get away from chinking. We weren't able to do that though.
 
Can you tell which truss style is what? And where the log walls are new versus old? Or which are solid and which are not?
 
I like the look you got on the photos.

As for the question about what tablesaw would hold a 8by 12 by 8-12ft long eastern red cedar log? The answer is a powermatic 66 with a side extention, in feed and out feed extentions.....Plus cedar even green isn't that very....nothing 3 of us can't handle day in and day out.

I would like to see construction pictures of your cabins roof system if you have them....
Thanks
Keith Ratliff
 
I'll add some on here tonight. Some interior pics of the new and old roof system. The original roof was built in 89, but I don't have a scanner so those photos may be harder to get on here. We documented the whole thing when we first built it. Brings back some fond memories. I highly suggest you do the same.
I can email you some more if necessary rat.

You can defintely tell the difference in insulation. We used to have a wood burning stove for heat. Now it is in floor heat. Awesome if you can get it.
 
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