Zogger, you think that's really necessary? I've adjusted my share of carbooberators in my time, though not too often on my saws. Just read the owners manual and they recommend it being adjusted for height anyway over 1200 feet, I think, and I'm quite a bit over that, and dealers are in the valley.. I thought I'd see how it runs at the factory settings and then maybe just rich it up a tiny bit.. I'm assuming that's the high speed jet I'd want richer, no?
I would think the 1800 feet of altitude would richen it up a little naturally, no? Or isn't it enough height to do it?
I have no qualms about plastic. It's an amazing material these days, but it just makes me feel old, lol. Still, it would seem the saws made with it should be lighter.. And I doubt it will look as good as my old Echo 30 years from now, but I won't be here to see it, so it's all good..
Still looking for an assistance in getting the Spanish or whatever changed out of my Arborsite buttons and headings.. can't find any control for it.
Well, not an expert on these saws, just know I toasted mine and it showed every indication of running way too lean. Tried resurrecting the cylinder with acid cleaning and a lot of sanding, and a new ring in the piston, although I knew that was a long shot. Only ran again for a minute. It needs both replaced. I know the mix was good and it was full rich up against the stops per factory adjustment. I know I ran it too hard on too big of wood initially as well, they need quite a few tanks before you can do that.
Most or all the other guys here who have them have richened them just a little. But, I would say you need to be the final judge on what you want to do, just pay attention to how it is running, check out the plug condition, etc. Yes, at altitude over the dealers that would tend to make it run richer.
Either way those stupid limiter tabs they have on saws got to go. They limit your adjustment. Trust yourself on adjusting correctly, I can't see where a one size fits everyone from the factory could *ever* work properly, on any two stroke anything especially.
Read any of the tuning threads here, the sort of consensus is a burbly sounding four stroke "missing" sound out of the cut, cleans up revs nice in the cut. That's a tune for your situation. Or use a tach, a little richer for breakin according to specs, then gradually adjust it to correct good RPMs after some tanks, and that is a variable. Yes to your question, the H screw, counter clockwise -out further-to richen. Who knows, in *your* situation the factory settings might work fine, I just can't say, but think about it, they ship a container load of saws all adjusted at the factory someplace, then the saws wind up getting run in all sorts of temps from below zero to over 100 F, altitudes from sea level to 9,000 feet up someplace, and humidity levels from desert to swamp, and so on, running who knows what for crap modern fuel, no ethanol to 10% or higher, 87 stale right from the pump at brand x gas station to 90+ octane fresh from the refinery that day or ..who knows. I don't. How the heck are they all supposed to be perfect tuned outta the box? I can't see it being possible. Four strokes with a nice sump and full lube are a bit more forgiving, two strokes sure ain't.
As to getting back to english only, logout the site, clear all your tabs or pages that have arboristsite anything, clear your browser cache, then log out the browser and restart it. Might want to clear cookies and start again there as well if you use cookies. I've got stuck in some of the foreign languages here before, after following a google link that was one of the foreign language pages, and that method I outlined worked for me. I tried their various buttons to change it, didn't work very good.
