Buying new saw, MS 361

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Hi all,

My first post. What a great site.

I am planning to buy a new saw after reading all of the wonderful info and advice here. MS361 w/20" bar. Can you suggest any accessories or 'must haves" that I should get right away?

I have about 3 arces of wooded land, Southern OH trees. They seem to be a variety of maple, oak, various hardwoods. I was planning to get at least an extra chain.

I'll place another post for safety related equipment.

THanks!

 

[Ax-man]

Wedges for sure, maybe a throw ball and line, pull rope, heck why not get some spurs and a cheap climbing saddle, lets go all the way and get a chain saw winch, skidder would be nice too have too.

Larry

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

Welcome to the site man. You'll be completely satisfied with that saw. There's been alot of conversation about it on this forum. Do get the extra chain. If it's standing wood, go with RS. If it's older dead, dirty, on the ground stuff, and maybe you're new to chain sharpening, go with RM. Either is a capable chain. As far as aftermarket accessories, you can get a full wrap handlebar for that saw, though it's not necessary, it's very, very nice in my opinion. It's totally changed how easy the saw is to use. I'm originally from S. Indiana, and I can speak to the hills there and in S. OH, so a full wrap might come in handy on some ridge somewhere. They are nice, and all of my saws wear them. You can mod that muffler, but it's a fine saw as is.

As far as safety gear, I'll speak to that now- use it. Ear and eye protection is cheap and easy. As far as spending money, I'd go with boots and chaps first. I also wear a hard hat when I'm cutting, and though some might think it's overkill, I don't, and there's a reason why the pros wear them.

You'll enjoy that saw, and it will serve you well.

Jeff

 

[SawTroll]

Not much to add to what Jeff said, but try to get RSC chain if the wood is clean. Less vibration than either RS or RM.

I also question the need for-/desirability of- the full wrap handlebar, as it makes it impossible to cut real close to the ground. The top of the handlebar will be close to 90 degrees angle to the bar with such a handle, which at least some people find awkward. In my opinion, it also adds some potential safety risk in the case of kick-back, especially when bucking.
What you will be doing, and in what sort of terrain, should help you decide on that topic.

Good luck with your new saw - it should give you good service!

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

In my opinion, it also adds some potential safety risk in the case of kick-back, especially when bucking.

Curious, how so? Not to doubt you, or call you on it, but interested in your thoughts. How is cutting from the RH side of the saw any more dangerous than cutting from the LH side, other than the bar being on the same side of the saw. The risk of kickback wouldn't be any greater would it? I'm asking because I don't know.

And I know you don't like our wacky full wraps, SawTroll, but out here they work well, and it was just last week I took down a yard full of trees and left stumps just a few inches tall. Everyone may not like them, but I'm hooked, and you know I respect your opinion, as it almost always differs from mine.

Jeff

 

[Lobo]

Jeff I think its more a question of overall control and handling which may impact safety as most people are not as comfortable and at ease.

 

[SawTroll]

Jeff, I do respect your opinion - and sort of expected your reaction to my post.

What I am referring to, is that the 90 degree handlebar to bar&chain angle will bring the bar&chain right at your head, instead of over the right shoulder, in case of severe kickback when bucking horizontally placed logs. It is of course possible to avoid it by adjusting your stance, but will you always think of that? It feels a bit awkward to me, as you either has to twist your body or use an unatural grip on the handlebar.
If you often buck left-handed, you will have an advantage though.

By the way, such a severe kick-back has never happened to me, so it might be a remote point..............

As to felling, what will function best is decided by the micro-terrain around the tree. I have not stated that there is any safety issues involved when felling.

 

[John Ellison]

Seems like the chain brake would be less likely to work if you were using a saw "left handed"?

John

 

[Blowdown1]

While someone mentioned sharpening, nobody suggested the supplies as something to get. Learn to sharpen by hand, get one of the basic setups (Husky roller guide or Stihl guide) and keep the chain sharp. Best thing you can do for both the saw and you.

 

[belgian]

I have the pleasure of owning this type of saw for a few months now, and can only confirm good news. It has an 18" bar and a standard RSC chain on it. I simply love that saw : awfull power, little vibrations. Like other users already stated above, this tool will give you great satisfaction, period.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

Jeff, I do respect your opinion - and sort of expected your reaction to my post.

And I, your's. Thanks for clarifying SawTroll. I enjoy talking about our 361's with you.

Jeff

 

[clearance]

Here we go again, talking crazy talk about kickbacks. I will make it real simple, NEVER put your self in a position to get a kickback in the face or arms or shoulder. ALWAYS stand to one side. It does not matter what kind of saw you are using, I have bucked with wrap handled saws (288, 066, 2101, 371 etc) and with left handled saws (266, 038, 372 etc), I prefer wraps but it makes no difference to safety. Never put yourself in the path, you can't stop it. Know where the tip is always.

 

[SawTroll]

Husky roller guide

While someone mentioned sharpening, nobody suggested the supplies as something to get. Learn to sharpen by hand, get one of the basic setups (Husky roller guide or Stihl guide) and keep the chain sharp. Best thing you can do for both the saw and you.

The Husky/E-Lux roller guide is a very good help, but they have to be slightly modified to fit Stihl chain properly.

 

[Mingara]

Here we go again, talking crazy talk about kickbacks. I will make it real simple, NEVER put your self in a position to get a kickback in the face or arms or shoulder. ALWAYS stand to one side. It does not matter what kind of saw you are using, I have bucked with wrap handled saws (288, 066, 2101, 371 etc) and with left handled saws (266, 038, 372 etc), I prefer wraps but it makes no difference to safety. Never put yourself in the path, you can't stop it. Know where the tip is always.

Clearance

I was not aware that left handed saws were available if that is what you meant in your comments above. I also take it that the saws you refer to are Sthil? As a left handed saw user new to the game, I am always concerned about possible kickback and where the chain could bounce, although I have not experienced kickback but I have to say the prospect is a little scary. Similarly I need to know what happens to a chain that breaks during cutting.

Thanks

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

Clearance

I was not aware that left handed saws were available if that is what you meant in your comments above. I also take it that the saws you refer to are Sthil? As a left handed saw user new to the game, I am always concerned about possible kickback and where the chain could bounce, although I have not experienced kickback but I have to say the prospect is a little scary. Similarly I need to know what happens to a chain that breaks during cutting.

Thanks

Of the saws he refers to, the 066 and 038 are Stihl. The others are Huskys. I think by "left handled" he's referring to the standard half wrap, or flush mounted handle bars, as they wrap around the left hand side of the saw. I'm a lefty, and though all of my saws wear full wrap handle bars, I cut by default right handed. I utilize the full wrap feature often, but to just pick up a saw and buck, I cut right handed, with my right hand on the throttle.

As far as a breaking chain, the chain catcher should take care of it. If you're cutting with the top of the bar, then all of the chain length from where the chain comes out of the wood all the way back to the saw will come in your direction. And yes, the prospect of kickback is very scary. I like think that the saw won't hurt you unless you let it-by putting yourself, or the saw in such a position as to allow it. Either through fatigue, carelessness, or ignorence. Not that you're ignorent by any means, but you'd be surprised how many folks with chainsaws are clueless.

Jeff

 

[Mingara]

Jeff

thanks for your explanation to my queries. I tend to use my dolmar 120si right handed as I don't like standing to the right of the blade with my arms crossing over the blade path should anything happen.

Appreciate your comment about ignorant people operating chainsaws and I guess I am one of them at this stage, hence my regular questions on this very useful site. However, there are a few users I know that are just as you describe. They have no fear of the possible outcomes and just fill the tank with fuel and away they go without as much as a thought to the possible dangers. Makes me shudder sometimes when I see them.

Jim

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

Well you're already ahead of the game by the fact that you're concerned about safe operation. Knowing you have things yet to learn, and not thinking you know all there is to know is good, and will probably keep you out of trouble.

All of us should do so well.

Jeff

 

[clearance]

I should have been more clear, what I mean by left handed is a standard handle like Fishetc. says. I am righthanded but I learned to run a saw lefthanded for my own safety. Example: you are bucking a windfall tree that is sideways on a steep hill, you want to buck off the rootball close to make the best use of the wood. The rootball is to your left and you have to be on the highside, you can cut righthanded, but because the rootball is beside you will be looking at the chain, bad. You can cut lefthanded (throttle in your left hand) and be safe from a kickback. It is kind of odd the first few times but it works well in many spots and is safe.

 

[SawTroll]

Left handed

Jeff, now knowing that you are left handed sort of explains your "love affair" with the full wrap handlebar................ ..........but it is good to hear that you usually cut right handed anyway, when possible. (Yes, I know there is other reasons too).

Mingara, there is no such thing as a lefthanded chainsaw - at least not in current (or resent) production. If you have to cut a lot with the left hand on the throttle, you better either get a full wrap handle, or a Jonsered saw with 90 degree half wrap. That will make it a bit less awkward, but try to do as Jeff does, normally cut right handed.

I do cut left handed when I have to, but I am extra careful when I do it.

 

[Mingara]

I appreciate the advice from you experienced guys out there. SawTroll I do try to stay away from using my saw left handed as I mentioned to Jeff. I don't like looking over the blade while I am using it. I am sort of training myself to cut right handed all of the time - of course there will be times as mentioned in this forum that I will need to cut left handed but I will take even more care then. I have learned from this post, including when to cut my timber here in Australia. Thanks to fgrogan for starting the conversation.