Help choosing a between a 362 CM 400 CM or a 550 or... ?

[holeycow]

I'll be treating it somewhat light no matter what while giving it as a full range of throttle keeping the bar on the wood as i go. I have to get those 16" trees out of the way before the big ones have room. Power lines and a road are on one side, and hardwoods that I want to leave standing are on the other. This stand of softwoods has been growing along the powerline and road since the area first got electrified in the 50s. They have matured, and it is time for them to come down before the winds take them.

Break it in pretty hard. Wide open throttle. Some 10" bucking and then full bar bucking. Wide open. No partial throttle. It will feel "tight" at first and pretty quickly become more free revving. Don't baby it.

The motor will tell you how its feeling. If you want a good saw, let'er rip, but don't get it singing hot for the first couple of tanks. Then go nuts.

And don't run 50:1...

 

[holeycow]

Well that's my 2c anyhoo.

 

[cookies]

Wonder why they did that?

they did it because of crank bearing failures

 

[holeycow]

Which have been going on for, idk, about 15 years or so. Wtf.

For sure since the stratified charge ridiculousness started.

 

[chainbrake]

It really is a good saw. The 400 and 500i are two of Stihl’s best new saws. We’ve sold many of them at my shop and only a few have been back for basic maintenance stuff. One 500i came back with a scored piston but that was due to operator error.

Break it in pretty hard. Wide open throttle. Some 10" bucking and then full bar bucking. Wide open. No partial throttle. It will feel "tight" at first and pretty quickly become more free revving. Don't baby it.

The motor will tell you how its feeling. If you want a good saw, let'er rip, but don't get it singing hot for the first couple of tanks. Then go nuts.

And don't run 50:1...
I've read your kindly-given advice and it makes sense to me. That said, I have sent the question of how to properly breakin an ms400 to Stihl. Also, if not 50:1, then what do you use. After 90 days, the warranty is done (as it is a pro-saw). I'll follow what Stihl says for at least 90 days.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

We just got the 562 MkII in a few weeks ago, interested in running one myself. Husqvarna reduced the compression slightly with a dished piston so likely won’t perform quite like the MkI. OEM replacement pistons for the 562 are dished as well.

Late run mk1 had the dished piston too and weighed just hair under 14lbs. Early mk1 was just hair lighter then 13lbs before updated crankcase etc etc etc.

The mk2 has no stuffers now along with the dished.

Guys in the group on FB said they liking them. = The new 562mk2 muffler is alot better then the old version basically the same as the 550mk2 and 572xp. It also has alot bigger exhaust port, but a good muffler mod is still a very noticeable gain in power over stock. Also the early 562 3/4 wrap handle bolts right on the MK2.

 

[Trailsawyer]

Will do. I think it will be the last saw I ever buy. I was reading a user satisfaction survey for the saw. 73 votes yielded 70 votes at 5/5. The other 3 votes were 4/5 by people who seemed that they were wanting 70cc power.

My son bought the 400, and ended up doing a "power tune" on it after running my 462r.....
The 400 with a little port work and a bark box muffler mod will pull a 28" bar in west coast fir!

 

[sean donato]

they did it because of crank bearing failures

That was taken care of with one of the updates. Didn't have anything to do with the piston or compression. Lack of oil, and plastic bearing retainers.

 

[ace4059]

OP,
What’s your thoughts on the 400?
Have you ran it yet?

 

[chainbrake]

View attachment 1134074

When I look at your blocks of firewood, I notice you ripped them as well as cross cut them. Did you use that 400 with a standard 25ish degree filing on that chain for both the ripping and the crosscutting? I don't rip many blocks (I'd normally just split them), but if you easily ripped through them without going to a 10-15 degree rip chain, then I am impressed with the work that saw will do with a 25" bar.

 

[stihl sawing]

When I look at your blocks of firewood, I notice you ripped them as well as cross cut them. Did you use that 400 with a standard 25ish degree filing on that chain for both the ripping and the crosscutting? I don't rip many blocks (I'd normally just split them), but if you easily ripped through them without going to a 10-15 degree rip chain, then I am impressed with the work that saw will do with a 25" bar.

All that was cut and noodled with a 3/8 stihl rs chain.
I hadn't sharpened it yet.

 

[chipper1]

When I look at your blocks of firewood, I notice you ripped them as well as cross cut them. Did you use that 400 with a standard 25ish degree filing on that chain for both the ripping and the crosscutting? I don't rip many blocks (I'd normally just split them), but if you easily ripped through them without going to a 10-15 degree rip chain, then I am impressed with the work that saw will do with a 25" bar.

As you can see in his response above we refer to that as noodling. Set the log on its side and cut in from the bark side, not the cut side.if your not getting long noodles for chips, you're probably doing it wrong lol. Instead of laying your bar 100% parallel with the log, you can tilt it slightly so the long chips get a bit smaller this will help the clutch cover from getting jammed up with noodles.

 

[chainbrake]

As you can see in his response above we refer to that as noodling. Set the log on its side and cut in from the bark side, not the cut side. if your not getting long noodles for chips, you're probably doing it wrong lol. Instead of laying your bar 100% parallel with the log, you can tilt it slightly so the long chips get a bit smaller this will help the clutch cover from getting jammed up with noodles.

Oh I get the process. Back in the day, when I had a couple of big saws, I would sometimes mill 6x6 post and various pieces of millwork stock from a client's trees on a building lot. After a few years, I would mill some casing or other pieces of trim to be used in some of the common areas of the house using that wood from their own property. I had separate chains filed to 10 degrees that I would keep just for milling. I would do the same if I were "noodling" wood a great deal. It is easier on the saw. I have rip, crosscut and combo blades for my circular saws, it is the same principle. And, yes, out in the field, you do what you can with what you have. I've made plenty of noodles.

 

[chainbrake]

All that was cut and noodled with a 3/8 stihl rs chain.
I hadn't sharpened it yet.

I'm impressed.

 

[bwalker]

One response to all 3 quotes, @ballisticdoughnut thanks for checking. I would have thought a simple modification to the flywheel for more cooling air would have been better, possibly doing minor adjustmet with the timing as well. Can't see how lowering the compression isn't going to hurt torque a bit.
To both, I never had the hot start issues, carb issues or really any other issues with it. Really I reccomended it to anyone, it was a fantastic saw. Then husqy screwed the pooch with parts so new saw time.
I think If I still had one, I'd stock up on some flat top pistons to have around, just in case.

I had zero issues with mine. Although I luved in Upper MI at the time where it never gets real hot.

 

[PV Hiker]

@chainbrake Just wanted to add congratulations on the Stihl 400C-M. I own Stihls 261C-m 361, 362C-M, 400C-M and 500i. I grab the 400 and have left the 361 and 362 for a field loaner when training other sawyers. 400 is a solid saw.

If you are new to the M-Tronics a understanding will help you avoid problems with usage. As with any chainsaw, let it warm up not only for even piston expansion but the chip (computer) needs to run through settings to make adjustments.

After finished making cuts as with any chainsaw let it idle a bit around 30 seconds give or take, sometimes I go longer to cool the cylinder more. With the chip if you shut down the saw from a high RPM and hot, then that is what the last thing the chip stores as a starting point when you do a restart. That means it will hard start and flood as it thinks it is hot and high RPM and pushes more fuel.

These simple steps even though it may seem like it is taking forever and you just want to get to cutting will save you some grief with a M-Tronic chainsaw.

And I'm in the camp with new saws, warm them up and cut as normal. First tanks I'm pushing it harder than normal but not disrespecting it. Sharp chain and go have fun.

Cheers, Patrick

 

[sean donato]

@chainbrake Just wanted to add congratulations on the Stihl 400C-M. I own Stihls 261C-m 361, 362C-M, 400C-M and 500i. I grab the 400 and have left the 361 and 362 for a field loaner when training other sawyers. 400 is a solid saw.

If you are new to the M-Tronics a understanding will help you avoid problems with usage. As with any chainsaw, let it warm up not only for even piston expansion but the chip (computer) needs to run through settings to make adjustments.

After finished making cuts as with any chainsaw let it idle a bit around 30 seconds give or take, sometimes I go longer to cool the cylinder more. With the chip if you shut down the saw from a high RPM and hot, then that is what the last thing the chip stores as a starting point when you do a restart. That means it will hard start and flood as it thinks it is hot and high RPM and pushes more fuel.

These simple steps even though it may seem like it is taking forever and you just want to get to cutting will save you some grief with a M-Tronic chainsaw.

And I'm in the camp with new saws, warm them up and cut as normal. First tanks I'm pushing it harder than normal but not disrespecting it. Sharp chain and go have fun.

Cheers, Patrick

Agreed, I do about the same thing, well I do the same thing with all my saws. But yep, give it a tic to idle.

 

[bwalker]

@chainbrake Just wanted to add congratulations on the Stihl 400C-M. I own Stihls 261C-m 361, 362C-M, 400C-M and 500i. I grab the 400 and have left the 361 and 362 for a field loaner when training other sawyers. 400 is a solid saw.

If you are new to the M-Tronics a understanding will help you avoid problems with usage. As with any chainsaw, let it warm up not only for even piston expansion but the chip (computer) needs to run through settings to make adjustments.

After finished making cuts as with any chainsaw let it idle a bit around 30 seconds give or take, sometimes I go longer to cool the cylinder more. With the chip if you shut down the saw from a high RPM and hot, then that is what the last thing the chip stores as a starting point when you do a restart. That means it will hard start and flood as it thinks it is hot and high RPM and pushes more fuel.

These simple steps even though it may seem like it is taking forever and you just want to get to cutting will save you some grief with a M-Tronic chainsaw.

And I'm in the camp with new saws, warm them up and cut as normal. First tanks I'm pushing it harder than normal but not disrespecting it. Sharp chain and go have fun.

Cheers, Patrick

With my 400 I've never done anything out if the ordinary. Ie when I'm done cutting I just shut it off and no special warm up other than taking up easy for a cut or two.

 

[chipper1]

Oh I get the process. Back in the day, when I had a couple of big saws, I would sometimes mill 6x6 post and various pieces of millwork stock from a client's trees on a building lot. After a few years, I would mill some casing or other pieces of trim to be used in some of the common areas of the house using that wood from their own property. I had separate chains filed to 10 degrees that I would keep just for milling. I would do the same if I were "noodling" wood a great deal. It is easier on the saw. I have rip, crosscut and combo blades for my circular saws, it is the same principle. And, yes, out in the field, you do what you can with what you have. I've made plenty of noodles.

You're welcome.

 

[chainbrake]

You're welcome.

Ok, you are right, thanks for the description.

And I should have made it more clear. I would chainsaw mill, then 3-5 years later i would process the big boards I had milled with a table saw, shaper and sanders. The deck posts I would just use right while they were still fairly green as shrinkage on length is minimal - especially when supported spans are over 10+ feet.