Help choosing a between a 362 CM 400 CM or a 550 or... ?

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chainbrake

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I've run Stihls for most of my life. I cut 10-20 chords of firewood and I sometimes clear laneways and building/septic sites for houses. I'm semi-retired and currently build houses in rural Atlantic Canada.
I'm 68 years, not a big man, still quite lean for someone my age. Not as powerful as I used to be, but can still cut wood for 5-6 hrs a day when I pace myself right - generally generally fell, limb and buck about 1.5 chords one day and haul and split it the next. My lungs are damaged, I have a battery-powered, forced-air respirator that I wear as a backpack when I use a chainsaw or any dusty/smoky equipment. It weighs 11 pounds.
We have about 20 acres of mixed forest. 10 acres of small wood needs to be thinned with about half of the trees in that plot needing to be removed and turned into firewood over the next 3-4 years. Another 5 acres is fairly mature. I need to remove a stand of 60-70 spruce that are 50-70 years old, 60-70 feet tall 16-30" at the stump (most are 20-25"). I'm turning those trees into lumber. I want to begin falling them in a week or two. Once they are down, 24-30" trees are going to be a rarity on this property. We also have another 5 acres that is very mixed with small and big wood. I do take down the odd 20-30" hardwood (mostly maple and birch), but most trees I deal with are smaller and are either blowdowns or just weak/dying trees.
I have an old 034 that I generally use a 16" bar in, but have a 20" for felling bigger trees. My backup saw is an ms170 that I use for limbing and pruning. I used to have a 261 that I really liked, but I gave that away to the young apprentice that I let go when COVID hit (as per my doctor's orders). I'm looking for a saw that will let me manage the trees on my land for the next ten years. My 034 just doesn't have enough guts to do the work I am asking of it. I want my new saw to be stronger than the 261 used to be because I want firewood to go faster. I'm not cutting really big wood, so I don't need to haul a big bar around. We have a good stihl/husky dealer in my neighbourhood. I will buy either of those saws, but no other. I really like working with the trees in our forest/woods. I don't want to give it up before I absolutely have to.
Many thanks to all knowledgeable pros with good advice.
 
I've got a 362 its been a good saw for 12 years but today I'd choose the 400 over it. Seems like a lot more saw about the same weight and about 100 bucks different down here.
I've been leaning that way. $100 or $200 dollars is a tank of gas in my truck or a week's worth of groceries, not very much when you average it out over 10+ years. I can cut that much firewood in less than half a day if I ever thought i needed to have that money back.
 
Get a 400, been about the most impressive saw I've owned compared to any other 60ish cc saw. It's everything the 362 should have been. Been my go to saw since I got it.
Don't know where the 620p came into play, never been super impressed with them. My neighbor has had one for years other then being cheap and reliable, it's heavy for its displacement and not an amazing performer.
 
My vote would be a 620P too, having owned both a 362 / 620P and currently a 261/620P, I end up reaching for the 620 for most larger stuff. With a muffler mod, retune and 10+ tanks in it, really outpaces the 362 in torque.
Thanks, but like I like I said: it's got to be a Stihl or a Husky. Those are the pro saws sold in my part of the bush less than 1 minute from my house. I've never even seen an Echo. I hear they are sold at Home Depot - 45 minutes away. I don't go to Home Depot. I don't like their politics.
 
Thanks, but like I like I said: it's got to be a Stihl or a Husky. Those are the pro saws sold in my part of the bush less than 1 minute from my house. I've never even seen an Echo. I hear they are sold at Home Depot - 45 minutes away. I don't go to Home Depot. I don't like their politics.
Echo can be purchased online and it doesn't have to be at Home Depot. They don't have all the advanced electronics of the Stihl and Husky saws and are simple and reliable Japanese saws.

That said, if you're dead set on Stihl and Husky- it sounds like you need light and powerful. No one can touch the MS400 in that category right now.

Though honestly, it sounds like you need two saws. A light 40-50cc and a 70cc rather than a single saw. An MS261 with an 18" bar for limbing and small work and a 572xp with a 28" light bar for large stuff and fast bucking (less vibration and smoother than an MS462 with better balance).
 
I have the 261, 550, and 400. If you want an all around saw I go to the 400 every time. Light for its power, can run a 24 inch bar if you need it. Sounds like you are looking for good power to weight ratio. If you want strictly stock 400 is my sugggestion. Ported the 346.
 
Echo can be purchased online and it doesn't have to be at Home Depot. They don't have all the advanced electronics of the Stihl and Husky saws and are simple and reliable Japanese saws.

That said, if you're dead set on Stihl and Husky- it sounds like you need light and powerful. No one can touch the MS400 in that category right now.

Though honestly, it sounds like you need two saws. A light 40-50cc and a 70cc rather than a single saw. An MS261 with an 18" bar for limbing and small work and a 572xp with a 28" light bar for large stuff and fast bucking (less vibration and smoother than an MS462 with better balance).
Thanks Tim,
Once I get through these 60-70 trees that are going to be cut into standard lumber lengths (10+ feet) and milled, I'll have very few trees big enough to bury a 2ft bar - maybe 2-3 a year. I am mainly a house (and light commercial) builder, and I really like the forest, but don't want to work other people's land. I'll stick with cutting and splitting 10-20 cords a year.

Years ago, I had a Stihl 090 with a 4 ft. bar and a Husky with a 30" bar. If I were going for bigger wood and commercial production, I'd go with the saws you suggest.
If I brought in a new Echo for the Stihl/Husky guys (my neighbours) to work on if I were having a problem with a saw, I'd be all kinds of embarrassed for not ponying up a little extra to support their storefront in the first place. Likewise, they might recommend me to build a home rather than go outside the community.
Thanks for your advice. If I were younger, I'd buy the saws you suggest.
 
Considering you have a Stihl and Husqvarna dealer close, I’d recommend the MS400. Very good power to weight ratio, and parts are readily available should the need arise. Husky makes great pro saws but parts availability is hit or miss with them right now unfortunately.
 
I'm wondering which saw your doctor recommends, isn't this his fault anyway lol.
Never ran a 400, but from what the guys say, they seem to really like them. That being said, I remember the guys thinking the 261 was the best saw in the world, so I bought one thinking I'd sell my 550xp, I sold the stihl 😆
 
Another vote for the MS400.

I’ve got a 241, 261, 400 and 500. The 400 has become my go to saw.

I run a 20” bar on mine, I‘ve ran it to pretty much full depth in walnut and cherry, with great performance… I imagine 24/25” would also run well. Might run a bit slow buried, but it would definitely get the job done, and with the longer bar, less bending over.

I run a 25” bar on my 500, and in reality, probably should have gotten a 28” on it.

Anyway, I would 100% recommend the MS400 over the 362- they are too close in weight and price, and too far apart in power to even give the 362 any consideration.

Don’t sweat the Mtronic. These guys talking about “I can’t work on an electronic saw!!” are simply dinosaurs, unwilling to adapt with the times. The same guys who say they can’t work on new cars, as if an internal combustion engine somehow changed in it’s theory of operation- buy a code reader and stop ********; it’s just not that complicated.

Mtronic saws are not rocket science either. Odds are, if you have a problem, replace the module for like $40 and get back work.

So far, the magnesium piston hasn’t shown to be an issue, so long as you run the saw properly. Just don’t do stupid **** with it and you won’t have any problems.
 
To the OP. You don't mention if you work on your saws, or have the dealer do it.

I don't really have a what-to-buy suggestion. But, I do have a couple thoughts...especially, if you work on your own saws.

1. As far as your MS170, this guy seems to be the master of bullet-proofing those saws:

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/stihl-ms180-upgrades.365661/

2. I bet your 034 needs new rings, and maybe some other tweaks. I think getting that back into trim would be a wise thing.


3. The MS400 which everyone wants you to buy has both an electronically-adjusted carb (Mtronic) and a magnesium piston. If you are fine with that, fine. If not: MS362 non-Mtronic.

Roy
 
I’m small, seventy-five years and own/run all the saws mentioned, including the Echo. I have CAD real bad.
IMHO -
MS400 is top of list if you don’t mind the price and you can get one.
MS362 good saw, but doggy stock. Adding a least a Bark Box helps, but why buy one and then have to spend more money to get performance you want.
550XP (old or new version) great saws but for trees that big you need more than 50cc. Suggest you look at Husky 555 instead.
Echo 620PW (W includes wrap bar) my new favorite saw to play with. I love the torque and price, but a bit heavy. If you look around you can find new 620PWs for $550. I just picked another new one up for $500. I strongly suggest you at least handle one Echo has a cult following.
My thoughts on Mtronic, Autotune vs standard carb - I saw a greatly differing altitude and temps, so I love Mtronic and Autotune. Don’t be afraid of them. OTOH if you are going to cut primarily at one place standard carb saws will save you money on purchase price.
 

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