Can't start my 92cc saw

Rugged made
Wesspur
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The bump I described as something more you would hear but maybe it's also an actual bump.
 
1. yes
2. like new , wet
3. same
4. dripped out
5. dry
6. dry
7. see answer below
8. key is whole

I am not sure what to report so i am going to over answer the question. the spark is big and it consists of two colors...white and blue... about 50% of each. So I could not remember what a working spark looked like and i went to my other saw and performed the same test and i would describe it as a 95% blue concentrated spark. the AM spark was larger or appeared that way. definitely not the same. i am leaning towards a NOT a nice blue spark.
 
i am going to wait to pull the jug until you process the information i just provided. it looks like i have two problems a suspect carb and a weak coil. i will get a new coil. i just got a new carb out of the mailbox.

i don't have any solder or even any clay. what size solder should i have? is checking the squish something i can do through the spark hole? me getting a coil is not going to be quick could take a week. i will ask a friend if he has one i could try in the meantime

when i put the new wj-69 carb on should all the screws be one full turn out?
 
  1. Remove the spark plug. Does it turn over nearly effortlessly, with only a slight "bump" as the magnets go past the coil? Yes
  2. How does the piston and back cylinder wall look with the muffler cover removed? like new , wet
  3. How does the cylinder wall look through the spark plug hole? same
  4. Turn the saw upside down with the spark plug removed and pull over quickly. Does any fuel spray out? dripped out
  5. Is the plug wet or dry when attempting to start WITHOUT choke? dry
  6. Is the plug wet when attempting to start after several pulls when it IS choked? dry
  7. Are you getting a nice blue spark? see answer below
  8. Is the flywheel key sheared? key is whole
#4. Your saw is flooded. It will never start in this condition. With the plug pulled and the saw upside down...pull the recoil until it no longer drips. Let it set overnight. Try to start it the next day WITHOUT choke and in the high idle position. If it doesn't fire, check the plug to see if it's still dry. If it is, place the master control lever on choke and pull until it pops, or no more than maybe 5 times. Place in the fast idle position and pull until it starts.

If the plug is wet again after the very first pulls WITHOUT choke, then you likely have a bad needle/seat in the carb.
 
blsnelling said:
  1. Remove the spark plug. Does it turn over nearly effortlessly, with only a slight "bump" as the magnets go past the coil? Yes
  2. How does the piston and back cylinder wall look with the muffler cover removed? like new , wet
  3. How does the cylinder wall look through the spark plug hole? same
  4. Turn the saw upside down with the spark plug removed and pull over quickly. Does any fuel spray out? dripped out
  5. Is the plug wet or dry when attempting to start WITHOUT choke? dry
  6. Is the plug wet when attempting to start after several pulls when it IS choked? dry
  7. Are you getting a nice blue spark? see answer below
  8. Is the flywheel key sheared? key is whole
#4. Your saw is flooded. It will never start in this condition. With the plug pulled and the saw upside down...pull the recoil until it no longer drips. Let it set overnight. Try to start it the next day WITHOUT choke and in the high idle position. If it doesn't fire, check the plug to see if it's still dry. If it is, place the master control lever on choke and pull until it pops, or no more than maybe 5 times. Place in the fast idle position and pull until it starts.

If the plug is wet again after the very first pulls WITHOUT choke, then you likely have a bad needle/seat in the carb.
Click to expand...
Agreed.
It's flooded and it won't run until it dries out.
When you cold start a saw if it don't hit in 3 to 5 pulls stop because something is wrong and your flooding it.

I have never seen a saw in decent condition not hit in a few pulls.
I have seen my brother not hear it hit and continue to pull and flood the snot out of it.
Rest assured if it's not running by 6 or 7 pulls then it's not going to.
 
jmssaws said:
Agreed.
It's flooded and it won't run until it dries out.
When you cold start a saw if it don't hit in 3 to 5 pulls stop because something is wrong and your flooding it.

I have never seen a saw in decent condition not hit in a few pulls.
I have seen my brother not hear it hit and continue to pull and flood the snot out of it.
Rest assured if it's not running by 6 or 7 pulls then it's not going to.
Click to expand...

I was more deliberate than that. I would suspect the carb is leaking. I know how to start and clear a saw. Either way thanks for considering my problem.

An afterthought, I don't think that coil is giving me good fire. I ordered a Briggs Stratton tester where I can see the spark should be here by Saturday. I will proceed as planned until then
 
Bedford T said:
I was more deliberate than that. I would suspect the carb is leaking. I know how to start and clear a saw. Either way thanks for considering my problem.

An afterthought, I don't think that coil is giving me good fire. I ordered a Briggs Stratton tester where I can see the spark should be here by Saturday. I will proceed as planned until then
Click to expand...

Try having an OEM 1122 with 190 psi of compression & no Texas Button.

And somebody decided to make it angry all the time. [emoji6]

It will be getting the bicycle tape treatment to the handles also.
 
Yes, someone earlier said they saw a big gap and it later dawned on me that he meant the coil gap and it was wider than it should be and I fixed it. It had been working but i corrected it
 
jr27236 said:
Did you set the coil gap correctly, business card between magnets and coil is always a good gauge.
Click to expand...

33663faeb334edb35377ccb09c2fc1e2.jpg
 

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