Chain just wont cut

[muddstopper]

On the last pic with 2 chains it looks like the raker is high on the old chain. That does not look like the same chain on previous pics?

Let me go look, pretty sure its the same chain, but I have several laying on the bench, might have grabbed the wrong one.

Well I did get the wrong chain here is the correct one. Sorry about quality of pics,

 

[Nine6Teen]

I noticed your bad chain is the type with the extra humps adjacent to the depth gauges. I've often wondered about those humps ... what are they supposed to do ? prevent kickback somehow ? anyways, when you file down the depth gauges, are you supposed to file down the humps too ? or leave the humps tall, and just take down the depth gauges ?

 

[Red Elm]

I noticed your bad chain is the type with the extra humps adjacent to the depth gauges. I've often wondered about those humps ... what are they supposed to do ? prevent kickback somehow ? anyways, when you file down the depth gauges, are you supposed to file down the humps too ? or leave the humps tall, and just take down the depth gauges ?

The humps are called bumper drive links. Normally the bumper drive links are lower from the factory than the depth gauges should ever need to go, however, if not file them down with the depth gauges.

 

[Philbert]

Sorry about quality of pics,

Well, if your edges are as fuzzy as those photos . . .

You need a little more hook.

More cowbell . . .

Hard to tell much from those photos. But, . . . if I received a chain like that at Philbert's No-Kill Chain Shelter, here is what I would be tempted to do:
- clean out the gullets - they don't add much to cutting ability (carry and clean out chips), but it will make your hook look deeper;
- check that both the top plate and side plate edges are sharp (you said yours are) and consistent;
- round over the depth gauges - when they are ground/filed flat, there is a possibility that the cutter will tip up onto the far, sharp, point of the depth gauge, making it seem higher than it is, as well as digging in, instead of sliding along the wood;
- make sure each rivet pivots freely - maybe add a drop of 3-In-One oil to each link (works like magic!).

Philbert

 

[muddstopper]

I put the chain on the grinder for one more try. I did notice that some of the rakers are filed a little less than flat, but as low as they are, it shouldnt matter much. Lowered the grinding wheel just a tad, not grinding on the tiebars, but getting pretty close. I wont fire the saw up today so I will have to wait until next weekend to see if anything helps. going to turn up the oiler a bit just to see if that helps. I am thinking the chain is running a little dry and possibly heating up. If none of this works, I am trashing the chain. I would rather trash the chain than burn up my saw with it 4 strokeing on every cut. Just for info, I use one of these, http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/accessories/filing-tools/2in1file/ for keeping the chain sharp in the woods. It keeps the rakers at the correct height without a lot of fuss. The chain in the pictures is an exception

 

[president]

i think im i love. wonder if shes married

She ( say-ed ) only the rivet holes need (aul) whats ;aul;

 

[turnkey4099]

Sorta OT but the mistakes a guy can make...

I & Mike went out to rescue my truck (stuck on a mud slick) tried a freshly sharpened chain on the 361 - would cut for crap. I sharpen with a jig that sets all angles. Resharpened it. Next trip it cut cut fairly well but not like it should, resharpened it today. Was looking for the depth gauage file when I moved a box of files...Hmmm sezz I, those files look bigger than what is in the jig. Yep, I had been filing with a 3/16 instead of the 7/32. I had even changed out the file for a new one.

Harry K

 

[cat10ken]

Chain isn't the same gauge as the bar. Chain is tipping slightly causing it not to cut. Is it .050 gauge in a .o58 or .063 gauge bar?

 

[unclemoustache]

View attachment 494566


I don't know if you can see it or not, but the very back of the top plate is beveled off, like right behind where the witness mark would be. This was a brand new chain that hit a large smooth rock, it happens. I sharpened it like usual, nothing. I got the dial caliper out and took another .020" off and evened all the teeth. Took the depth gauges down, nothing. Cleaned it really well and got to looking VERY closely and discovered the back of top plate damaged. Started researching and found the answer in Carlton chain download. This chain WILL NOT CUT with that damage. Crazy.

So if you were to file the end of the plate (making the tooth shorter) and thereby putting a non-beveled corner on the back of the top plate, would that cause the chain to cut again?

 

[Red Elm]

So if you were to file the end of the plate (making the tooth shorter) and thereby putting a non-beveled corner on the back of the top plate, would that cause the chain to cut again?

I'm not sure, but the next rain day I have we are going to find out!

 

[buzz sawyer]

Try holding the phone back farther so it will focus, then crop the photo to show the close up. If you can't crop them, go ahead and post and I or someone else will crop for you. In the last pictures it does look like you need more hook.

 

[Gugi47]

When you make picture with the phone, you have to wait to focus before you make it....maybe this help.

 

[buzz sawyer]

And include views from the top, outside, and front.

 

[absrio]

also did you check the bar? if the chain isn't getting enough oil then its possible the bar heated up and flowered over.

 

[Whitespider]

Take a really good, close look at the cutter side plates... any damage at all, and I mean any, will cause the kerf to narrow as the cut progresses.
As the kerf narrows it pinches, or restricts the chain from feeding into the kerf... the top plate won't, or can't, reach new, uncut wood at the bottom (sort'a acts like the chain ain't getting oil).
If you find damage, you'll need to file or grind the cutters back until all side plate damage has been removed.
I've been there... and I've done that.
*

 

[tanker]

cutters look like they could be short enough for an undressed bar(top and bottom edge wearing over the sides) to stop it from cutting right

 

[svk]

I think if we can get nice clear pics the problem will be solved rather quickly. Still a guessing game with those fuzzy pics.

 

[lefturnfreek]

Well my avatar is what should look like, angles the same side to side, top plate has an edge from outside to the inside, 0.025 raker depth, go rip chips

 

[muddstopper]

I am 300 miles away from the saw right now, so I cant get any more/better pics. One point that was brought up and I will investigate more when I get back home, is the gauge of the chain the same as the bar. Since the chain was given to me, I didnt even think about checking the gauge. And since this is the only chain that has given me any problems, it could be wrong for the bar I am putting it on. I have already resharpened the chain so any more pics would just show how it is and not how it was, but a few test cuts should tell me if it was just out of wack, or something else is going on. I am 99.999% sure that bar wear is not the issue. The bar has seen very little use and you cant even hook your fingernail on the edges.

 

[haveawoody]

For me when a chain won't keep it's edge for long it's time for it to depart for a few reason.
The chain itself is getting sloppy, the angles are at war with each other or the entire chains rakers and bumpers haven't been filed in forever.

Your problem IMO is the rakers are as high as the teeth and the bumpers are also similar.
Two signs of a well aged chain, also look for blue teeth or parts of them to see if at some point someone decided to cut for a day with no bar oil.
Blue teeth or parts of them and no matter how well it's sharpened or set it will dull very fast.

IMO take the chain of the bar and see if it bends sideways pretty easily, if so give it a heave away before it breaks.
If it's still a decent chain then time to file the rakers and bumpers with a proper raker guide.

After that if it still wont cut then time to hit your buddy with that chain, it might not cut wood any more but I'm sure as a beating weapon it will work well LOL