Chain oil, etc.

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Here is a reply from another thread I made shows my attitude

Ive nevr used anything but Stihl bar oil 10-15 bucks (was $8) whoopie doo. I take my $700 saw $100 bar and multiple chains out cut a chord of wood value 100-200 bucks use a quart or so of oil that reduced the value of my work 2-3 dollars and my oiler bar and chain had the right lube for the job. Spend 4 hours cuttin trees down for lot clearing 250 bucks - oil used I only pocket 245 bucks and take the wife out to Red Robin for lunch 30 bucks. If I had only used that cheap oil i would have bean so much better off.:dizzy:
Use stihl 2 stroke oil also Dont worry about our sense of humor its all good
 
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Hey guys , just wondering what kind of chain oil, 2 stroke oil, stabilizer for gas do ya'll use. What's good, what's crap? Thanks in advance.:greenchainsaw:

Welcome and before you get beat up to bad here for starting another "which is the best oil thread" I'll say that I like synthetic (Stihl HP Ultra or Amsoil) I use low lead 100 for fuel it last up to 24 months without ant additives, and Stihl orange jug bar oil - But that's just my .02 :dizzy:
 
Joe try searching a little but basically if you have a Stihl run Stihl 2cyl. oil. I use cheaper bar oil though. I am only cutting 3 to 4 cords of firewood a year though.
 
Hey guys , just wondering what kind of chain oil, 2 stroke oil, stabilizer for gas do ya'll use. What's good, what's crap? Thanks in advance.:greenchainsaw:

I like Stihl Ultra or Husqvarna XP oil mix, Husqvarna, Stihl or Poulan bar oil, I never use stablilzer cause Ultra and XP has it in it.

You left out the most important question in an oil thread:

What gas/oil ratio should I use? :dizzy:
(this question can be fought over for days on end!)
 
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I have always believed that you cant go wrong with factory oil for the brand. personaly i use echo power blend. I have run it in the equipment at work for years and it works great. as for bar oil, i kinda sin on that one and run the 7.99$ a gallon special at the local fleet supply store, shame on me.lol :givebeer: :chainsaw:
 
I was using Husky bar oil, but found I could get Poulan bar oil for 5 dollars cheaper. Am I really going to wear the b/c out that much faster? I mean I go though 2 gallons of bar oil a month. Only bad is I don't think the Poulan oil is all season like Husky oil.

Half my saws are running premixed AV gas so I don't need a stabilizer.
The other half run Husky xp at 40 to 1. I'm only running different gases to see if I'm going to like av gas. So far I do.
 
I talked to a backwoods Stihl dealer the other day and he brought up some points about 50:1 mix ratio- he said newer oils are refined to the point that they are nearly pure lubricant and that all the 'junk' has been removed, and therefore provided satisfactory lubrication at 50:1, and mixing richer than that was not necessary. He also said that mixing richer would produce more carbon in the exhaust which in the long term would be more 'stuff' passing through the exhaust port and thus more particles wearing on piston/ cylinder. I found that pretty interesting, along with talking politics with an older guy and the shop owner about the worldwide depression.
 
Well, since I ran out of all my Gary's Own Oil making salad dressing...

I use Poulan bar oil if I can find it on sale. Otherwise I use or Durex bar oil, which is sold at Bi Mart around here. Durex has a red dye in it for making it easy to see if you have enough oil on your bar and chain. It is really tacky stuff; bugs stick to the drippings on the side of the bottle. Made in Portland for loggers.

Oil to mix? I originally used Castrol 2T, but it is JASO FB dyno oil and it smokes a lot. It will clog up your muffler screen and leave deposits in your engine. I got wise after joining the AS forum, and flipped to using Mobil 1 2T racing oil. Burns with low smoke, and I swear my saws ran faster on it. It was JASO FC, and was a full synthetic. That stuff is no longer made, so I had to search for a replacement. I found Elf 2T at a local motorcycle shop here and now I am using that. Runs about the same as Mobil 1, it also is JASO FC and full synthetic. No smoke and the saws run faster on it.

Oh, and I add a little stabilizer to the gas when I add the oil mix. Keeps the gas fresh longer, and keeps the carb from gumming up if the saws sit for a few months (not that they ever sit that long).
 
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if you bought a good saw, it should've came with good oil - or at least been an option. if not - go see bob vila
 
Thanks guys for all the great,QUICK, responses. I just bought a reconditioned Husky 455 and it came with a new bar and chain but no oil manual. Went on line to get the manual off the Husqvarna site but wanted some recommendations from more experienced people. Plus I got a good chuckle from what I could only imagine was rollinfg of eyes. I was too quick not to use the search. Sorry guys! Rookie on board. Incidently I'm the new guy with the Homey Super xl12... :greenchainsaw:
 
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While some people on here will likely tell you that you have to use Stihl or Husqvarna oil, you can use just about any 2-stroke oil and be just fine.
For years we have used various Polaris snowmobile oils in our saws and we've never grenaded a chainsaw motor. The way I look at it, if its good enough for an 800cc snowmobile engine that makes 150 hp and turns 8,000 rpm, its good enough for any chainsaw.
I personally use Echo Power Blend motor oil (I like it because it contains a fuel stabilizer, not to mention that it doesnt smoke much and doesnt stink) and I use Poulan bar oil.
 

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