Chain sharpening

[the Rooker]

As I'm mostly a lurker, wasn't exactly sure where to post this. I've been cutting my own firewood for a long long time and do my own sharpening by hand without a guide. Initially, I really sucked at it. Now I feel like I suck less but I don't want to suck at all and I really want to get a grasp on this. I've watched a slew of you tube vids including BBR but he has 40 minute videos for 10 minutes of information. I know, get the gullet. What do people feel are the best you tube videos or websites that give straight forward info without all the fluff on sharpening? To be honest I'm still not clear on what a lot of terminology is such as full house, skip, chisel, micro chisel and probably a bunch more I can't think of now. So what are the distinctions? Is full house the same as skip? I think that means it cuts more aggressively but is less forgiving when hitting old fence wire. I'm at an age where I need to work smart and not so hard. I love being in the woods and cutting wood. I'm not all that tech savvy and am pretty lost when you guys talk about muffler mods and porting. I'm cutting hardwood in NYS. Thanks for any tips.

 

[ericm979]

I hear you on long rambling videos.

Full house/complement refers to the number of teeth. There's one tooth for every other link. Full skip puts an extra plain drive link (no tooth) between each tooth. Half skip does it for every other tooth.

No chain except maybe carbide tooth is tolerant of hitting metal. Skip chain is useful for longer bars because it's a little easier for the saw to pull through the cut (fewer teeth cutting) and there's more room for chips between the teeth. On smaller diameter wood it's grabbier than full complement. I run full complement up through 24" and skip chain beyond that.

Chisel refers to the shape of the tooth. The cutting corner of the tooth is a sharp 90 degrees. With semi chisel it's rounded a bit. Full chisel cuts faster but dulls faster in dirty wood.

When sharpening I concentrate on the underside of the tooth. The top of the tooth is hard chrome. You're filing away enough tooth so there is a nice sharp edge of chrome on the top. It's like sharpening a knife but upside down. The gullet shape is secondary to getting a good edge on the chrome. On a well worn chain or one that's eaten dirt you can see the chrome worn away- it's a slightly different color than the underlying metal. You need to file/grind it back to get to where it's all chrome. I need reading glasses to see this now unlike when I learned 4 decades ago.

The chainsaw section of this forum has a lot of good posts on sharpening. Philbert has a lot of good info as do others. Madsens chain saw shop has web pages with a lot of useful info. Check the links here: http://www.madsens1.com/muu_barchain.htm

 

[jcquade]

I use the stihl 2 in 1 sharpener. I like a sharp chain and a fast way to get there. This one does a great job. Have several friends that love it. Need to get the correct size
I just bring my saw into the stihl dealer a they give me the right one. Here is a 5 minute video that shows how to use it.https://youtu.be/LlHJYnMBBzA

 

[The Shooters Apprentice]

Two basic teeth types are Chisel and Semi Chisel. Chisel cuts smoother and faster, but doesn't stay sharp well in anything other then clean wood. Semi chisel holds up a bit better, but doesn't cut quite as well.

I run chisel on everything myself

 

[jcquade]

I watched a video comparing cutting speed for both types. Same saw, same wood. It was pretty marginal difference imo. Made me go with the semi chisel.

 

[the Rooker]

As I'm not too familiar with the site, I didn't see a forum section that specifically stated chainsaws. I need glasses too, especially when sharpening now.

 

[farmer steve]

As I'm not too familiar with the site, I didn't see a forum section that specifically stated chainsaws. I need glasses too, especially when sharpening now.

Here's the link to the chainsaw section.
https://www.arboristsite.com/forums/chainsaw.9/

 

[J D]

 

[Mad Professor]

Wear learther gloves.,,,,,,

 

[blades]

Semi chisel is easier to sharpen correctly than full chisel Only guide I know of for full chisel is the A-top all the others are for semi chisel.

 

[the Rooker]

Ah, thank you. So what is it about the chain that determines the size of the file you use? Are most general chains sold say for homeowner use a square tooth with a round grind?

 

[J D]

Ah, thank you. So what is it about the chain that determines the size of the file you use? Are most general chains sold say for homeowner use a square tooth with a round grind?

Manufacturers design determines file size, although there is a little leeway once you know what you are trying to achieve.

Most "homeowner" chain will be semi, micro, or chamfer chisel (variations of the above round ground, round tooth) & will often have safety bumpers to lower kickback

 

[J D]

From the above Oregon guide you can see that generally 3/8 lopro uses a 5/32 file,
.325 uses a 3/16 file, & 3/8 uses a 7/32 file.
Some manufacturers specify a metric file.
Towards the end of a chains life it can work well to change to a smaller metric or 11/64 or 13/64 file to maintain the desired hook

 

[GusGus2020]

Semi chisel is easier to sharpen correctly than full chisel Only guide I know of for full chisel is the A-top all the others are for semi chisel.

You can sharpen both types with a round file, the ATOP isn’t necessary. Full chisel will cut faster if filed back to a square grind in clean wood with depth gauges adjusted properly.

 

[muddy42]

I’ve slowly given up on all forms of guides or ‘two-in one’ systems etc. Just memorize what a sharp cutter should look like from the side and aim for that. Replace files often so you are always using a sharp one. Take your time. Have good light. Use a vice to hold the bar.

 

[Lightning Performance]

From the above Oregon guide you can see that generally 3/8 lopro uses a 5/32 file,
.325 uses a 3/16 file, & 3/8 uses a 7/32 file.
Some manufacturers specify a metric file.
Towards the end of a chains life it can work well to change to a smaller metric or 11/64 or 13/64 file to maintain the desired hook

I gave up on all that long ago. The file that fits the tooth or slightly smaller used properly cuts well most times on round filed chain imho. Keep 4/5ths under the cutter top and a just bit sticking up.
K.I.S.S.

 

[J D]

I gave up on all that long ago. The file that fits the tooth or slightly smaller used properly cuts well most times on round filed chain imho. Keep 4/5ths under the cutter top and a just bit sticking up.
K.I.S.S.

Agreed, & that's pretty much what I was saying (in a round about way).
For someone starting out who doesn't know any better sticking with the recommended file for whatever chain they are running will be the simplest approach

 

[The Shooters Apprentice]

I prefer a file thats a little bigger then recommended and file in three directions, down, back and then up to get under the top plate to create and break off a burr. Just like sharpening a knife, if you are not raising a burr, you are not getting that tooth sharp.

 

[Goat boy]

As I'm mostly a lurker, wasn't exactly sure where to post this. I've been cutting my own firewood for a long long time and do my own sharpening by hand without a guide. Initially, I really sucked at it. Now I feel like I suck less but I don't want to suck at all and I really want to get a grasp on this. I've watched a slew of you tube vids including BBR but he has 40 minute videos for 10 minutes of information. I know, get the gullet. What do people feel are the best you tube videos or websites that give straight forward info without all the fluff on sharpening? To be honest I'm still not clear on what a lot of terminology is such as full house, skip, chisel, micro chisel and probably a bunch more I can't think of now. So what are the distinctions? Is full house the same as skip? I think that means it cuts more aggressively but is less forgiving when hitting old fence wire. I'm at an age where I need to work smart and not so hard. I love being in the woods and cutting wood. I'm not all that tech savvy and am pretty lost when you guys talk about muffler mods and porting. I'm cutting hardwood in NYS. Thanks for any tips.

Don't think theirs a better video then this.

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

i had to do some work on my Echo everyday saw today. finally got around to it. thot it was a simple matter of chain back on drive and onto bar. but alas,... was i ever wrong!

stuck tight and locked up as as good as the Frozen North in middle of January!

thot i would also give it a quick sharpening, it was in need... but then soon wondered if maybe
it was time for a new chain...