Chimney was clogged today!

[CrappieKeith]

Boy....where to start.
Make sure you have enough combustion air to replace what is going up the flue plus you need to think about other appliances that are being vented and allow for them too.A test will be too light a match and hold it in front of the door while open.The match should blow out from the sucking(draft) of the furnace
Next you should build a chase around that flue to help insulate it vs redoing everything through the house.
You'll gain the same effect.

Somebody else said B vent.
B vent is for oil furnaces or cooler emmisions.
Class A or all fuel(2100 degree rated) pipe is what you want.
The better insulated the less creosote it wil make.
Triple wall is pipe that actually has an air space to bring fresh air back in and these types are also notorius creosote makers.

So smoldering a fire to get long burn times will make creosote.
Burn it hot weekly!
I have a Yukon and only clean my flue annually.
I do burn it hot every night when I get home from work for 2 hours.

 

[iowa]

There have been some really nice secondary combustion systems added to some older stoves. If such a system were to work effectivly the added btu output would warm up the chimney more, produce more heat and reduce the amount of unburnt energy that is collecting in the chimney.



From what I've figured of the design it might be possible to add an adjustable bypass(located at the red arrow) (the yellow arrows are how I believe the flue gasses flow) so the large round barrel would vent right into the chimney Vs. the exhaust going through those two tubes over the barrel.(I'm figuring the two tubes are separated inside the rectangular box) This would reduce efficiency but put more heat up the chimney. Making it adjustable you may find that some heat may still be gathered from the tubes.

This stove looks like it is ducted into the hot air system of the house. If there is a large fan induced air flow over these two tubes right there is where a whole lot of chimney cooling is happening, IMO. It would take high temperature insulation but if they were insulated flue temperatures would go up. I like the idea of the adjustable bypass better.

Dan

Yes. The rear rectangular box has a divider in it so the flue gasses flow forward down the tube, then cut accross the front box and down the other tube. A bypass would work good in that divider to get some hot gasses going up and out the pipe. However I think then the heat X 'er's would be worthless then because the gasses will follow the path of least resistance.

So you think that putting a blanket around the heat x'er's would help out? This could be a good idea. Yes there is a squirrel cage fan on the bottom in the back. Where the sheet metal is fallen down is where the fan goes. I hadn't fixed that portion yet when I took that picture. My fan also has 3 speeds. It is on Med. right now. Maybe turning it to low would be better?

Has anyone looked at the old "Longwood" furnaces? How are they designed. Do they have any heat x'er's on the top other their burn tubes? Or do flue gasses just go up and out the back?

As for lighting a match in front of the door while the furnace is going... Yes I have plenty of draft and it blows it out.

I think the furnace is too efficient from the exchangers and my flue gasses are too low when they go out my furnace. Thus the creosote.

I have single wall tubing out of the furnace up to my wall. Then I have double wall insulated SS flue the rest of the way 15' up. Just for the record

 

[user 19670]

I made a stove once for my garage and it had a heat exchanger divided in half so the flue gases traveled one way in the lower half and then returned via the top half.
It worked well for delivering heat but . . . unless it was run wide open the length of level run the smoke had to travel made for S L O W burns. Had to be opened up wide to get it to draw.
Had only 12' of insulated chimney straight up from the stove and through the roof so didn't experience any plugged chimney.