Climbing, How to Learn???

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
rahtreelimbs said:
OK, this is what I was looking for. Someone with actual experience on iced trees!

Crampons wouldn't work like hooks........will they work though?

you would need calves like arnaolds thighs to stay front pointed on a tree. i own 3 pairs of crampons and wouldn't even think of useing them for tree work. if there is that much ice in a tree, sit home by the fire.
 
You're probably confusing the lad now...I can see the injurys forum in a couple days. "rookie Kentuky 19 y/o fell out of a tree while wearing crampons" :rolleyes:

Does KY get any good ice storms?
 
Kentucky does. The year before last, Tennessee to the south of Kentucky got super slammed. A number of years ago I-75 from southern Georgia into Northern Florida was closed because of an ice storm. My Mom was caught up in that mess. Last year, Indianapolis was missed, but 10 Km north of us, and on for another 100 Km to the north, significant devastation, elms looking like they got hit by bombs.

Ice storms can happen most places in the U.S. in the Winter. Can be a huge boost for an arborist in the Winter.

I don't recommend crampons in the tree. I've worn them glacier hiking, and I can't imagine wearing them in a tree.
 
Thanks again guys. I've scheduled to meet with a climbing (specialist) at a local saw shop to talk over climbing gear. I might end up with a basic saddle and ropes today, don't know. I have made plans to attend the EXPO in columbus 9-11th. Thanks Tree Machine, that link may be the greatest help so far... Ok break time's over now, time to get back to work ;)

Justin
 
Read this article:

http://tinyurl.com/794n3

I've used crampons for iced trees. They work FANTASTIC!!! It's almost like having suction cups. One time after a day of ice climbing I put my gear on and grabbed my tools to try them on a tree. I found a dead elm in a park reserve. The tree had a bit of lean, not quite vertical. It was fun to whack my way up the tree. Would I ever use them for normal treework? Since the Big Shot will put a line up and makes SRT so safe and easy there's no reason to use ice tools for ascent. The crampons are waiting for another ice storm.
 
Interesting, Tom. I'm glad I didn't make hasty, un-informed judgement about the use of them in trees. Ice trees would list as "Steep, hard ice, or vertical ice."

OK, another secret weapon in the Arborist's tool arsenal ! Who'da thunk? I've gone from "Can't imagine wearing them in a tree," to "Can't wait to wear them in a tree." Indianapolis hasn't had a strong ice storm in 7 years, and storms have been light. So many of the trees are so very overextended that if we get an (overdue) ice storm this Winter, it could be a very bad scene. I've been saying this for the last three years. Every year the potential for big damage increases.

I love working in the Winter, but then again it's not Winter like Minnesota. THAT is Winter. I stay prepared for events like ice storms, but clearly, I need to add crampons to the kit for the upcoming season.

Noobie, I'm glad you're coming to TCI Expo. On your badge, have them ID you as Super Noob. Own your noobieness, it's not a disease. It's where we all started. We've all been there, which is why we treat noobs with respect.

Most of us don't start tree climbing by flashing a 5.13C with Darkstar, but in all honesty, I encourage you to do so. Nothing like diving in the deep end :p
 
Last edited:
darkstar said:
well we here AT ,the dark man have expierence in rock up to 5.14b Dark

Dark, are you serious? Awesome..

What's your level on lead? on a multi pitch alpine climb? Send me some pics if ya got some goodies. I'd sure like to motivate myself into getting back on some alpine faces!!
 
rb tree I got a good pic of me leading a 13d bolted roof thingie but i dont know how to resize it ... and will not accept the att . It might e mail however .
I would not be very good inspiration for alpine walls as i just barely enjoy them .
In my older age ive become somewaht of a sport weinie . Still climbing trees but mostly clipping bolts .Oh and a new found passion for deep water soloing . Basically climbing hard routes about 45 feet tall over water .
Send me the noob, in 6 months he will be like a rock and possibly beganning to show some tree talent allthough that usually takes more than 6 months .That is if my fellow climbers dont corrupt him . har har PM me your e dress r btree ill try and e mail you the pic .... Dark........ps wi10 meens water ice grade 10 easy with the new heel spurs[[[ edit ]]]come to think of i should say m10 ... mixed 10
 
Last edited:
dark

i've only heard of wi6 then the m rating starts.......thats some pretty impressive climbing you have under your belt. i live about 45min from the gunks. i haven't done much rock but i enjoy ice and alpine climbing and really love playing with the mixed and dry tool climbs.
 
Last edited:
J_Ashley said:
Thanks again guys. I've scheduled to meet with a climbing (specialist) at a local saw shop to talk over climbing gear. I might end up with a basic saddle and ropes today......I have made plans to attend the EXPO in columbus 9-11th.;)
Justin

We don't want you in a basic saddle. We want you on a pro series saddle. They're really not a lot more, considering the amount of hours it will serve you. You can try 20 different saddles on at the Expo, and then buy the one you want. This is a time to bring as much money as you can. There is endless tree gear, and the vendors this year are packed wall to wall. As you'll learn, tree gear pays for itself. Get the best gear. It's all investment in your dream, so spend abundantly.
 
I agree with tree machine . Get the good gear and learn how to use it .The latest awesome tree harness is the mack .Dont listen to me, im a pulling your leg on the tree side of things . Listen to tree machine and Tom Dunlap ,,,and Tree seer and and Tree co.... and all etc... you dont want to end up like me .. Dark
 
starting simply

I’m not sure all the kit and jingle is the best place to start. You could begin simply, add equipment slowly, as your level of proficiency requires.

Go and buy 2 Locking carabineers or snaps and 125 feet of three strand rope, ½”, polyester, hard lay (it will feel stiff in your hands), tree rope. 50 years ago it was manila line, full of splinters and smelling like some far off place. All a climber needed was a few feet of rope and a handsaw.

Cut 25’ off and learn to tie a swiss seat. This is your saddle. Tie it so the finishing square knot is in back, one end should be about 6’ long the other 2’, make a loop in the short leg and tie a snap onto the long leg. This is your lanyard.

Cut 100’ off. This will be your climbing line.

Find a likely tree, one with well-spaced branches starting 10’ or 12’ off of the ground. Approach with caution, they are dangerous. Never trust a tree. You are about to go into harms way, and if you don’t pay attention and follow instructions you will die or become crippled. Make sure the tree is healthy and strong, no carpenter ants or exposed roots. No bees or squirrel nests, No power lines.

Tie a small locked coil in the climbing line and throw it over a good stout limb. Untie the coils. Tie the line to the snap, leave 3’ of tail. Attach the snap to your saddle, just below your navel. Now use the 3’ tail to tie a rolling hitch around the standing line. Your all tied in.

Pull down on the standing part while pushing the rolling hitch up the line. Stand on your tippy toes; pull the line up as tight as you can. Now sit down, you should be suspended a couple of feet off of the ground.

Put your feet on the tree, grab the standing line with your secondary hand, and grab the knot with your primary. Now this is tricky so pay attention. You must simultaneously pull down with your secondary hand, push the knot up with your primary, and thrust your pelvis forward/up. You should be able to gain a few inches, as you get better at it you will go faster.

Repeat this process until you are up to your tie in point. Take a rest, you earned it. Now grab the rolling hitch and massage it down, slow and easy. You will fall a little bit, but as soon as you let go of the knot you should stop, there, try it again, get the feel of it and come down.

You just climbed your first tree. It will have been painful, very much so. Get used to it, there is plenty more to come.

I don’t expect you to start this way, very few people do anymore, the lure of jingle and comfort is too much to resist. I only write about it so you know there are options. The work can be done without 2000$ worth of stuff.

The real important things to learn about trees and tree work are very subtle and easily overlooked. The less you bring up there with you the more you will be able to absorb from the trees themselves. If you drown yourself in kit and jingle you may miss them entirely.

Pain doesn’t necessarily mean you are being damaged.
Why is tree time different than ground time? How does this affect your work?
What does violence look like in tree time?
What does a healthy tree look and feel like? What about an injured or dead tree?
Is there a difference in the way you feel while climbing trees of different species? Why is this so? What is the difference between fear and caution? What does it feel like when you’re killing a tree? Does the energy come from you or from the tree?



Good luck.
 
I played at it sort of this way a few years ago....and I got to have a much greater respect for arborists, especially those of you who know how to clim without spikes...I can also see how you could get hurt or killed if you're not cautious or ignorant. Here's what I had in hand to play with.... 1 basic saddle can't remember teh brand! about 75' of 1/2" safety blue rope...eventually got 120' of Samson arbor plex from Baileys, then made a flipline out of a heavy chain.....which I know would be deadly around power lines...but I was never remotely close to them so don't worry. I just threw the rope with a throwball over a likely limb or crotch and pulled myself up with the rope. What I didn't liek about this technique was it was very hard going and the rope would seem to scar the tree, and I didn't like that. Also the friction on teh rope seemed unacceptable(i.e. possible dangerous failure down the line). I really just played at this....never did any seriosu tree work. Furthest I've ever been up is maybe 40 or 50' in a laurel oak or spruce pine. Did trim a couple of low loblollys and a spruce this way...but like I said, mostly what I learned was how much I didn't know...
 
Corey,

I can't believe anyone would advise someone to use three strand for arbo work except for maybe a flipline. Three strand went out of use for climbing line 20 years ago. Look in any supply catalog. Does anyone even sell it?

If someone wanted to learn about fishing would you start them with a cane pole, safety pin and a cork bobber? I think not. :)

In time it is good to know how to tie a rope saddle. But what's the point of starting someone out that way? Do you want to discourage them? :)
 
This is probaly the thread to ask in but what do SRT and the other one DRT mean? single line and double line? Whats the advantages/disavatages of each?

I use rope over branch and with one side connected to the harness with a double bowline/spliced eye and connect to the other side with a blakes hitch on a split tale.
 
SRT=single rope technique. The rope is anchored and doesn't move, the climber moves up and down on the rope.

DdRT=doubled rope technique. The traditional arbo way of climbing. The rope is "doubled" over an anchor point. One end terminates on the saddle and the other has a friction hitch/device to allow the climber to move up and down the rope. The rope moves and the climber moves.

DRT=double rope technique. A climbing system where two seperate ropes are used. A climber could use DRT and use either SRT or DdRT on either leg of the system.

Too often arbos say that they climb on double rope since that is what people have called DdRT for many years. More correctly, it is DdRT.

There has been a lot of bandwith dedicated to SRT/DdRT threads. Instead of rehashing the same things, take some time to go back through the archives here and Tr**buzz.
 
In the tree climbers companion, it talks about ANSI standards requiring two lifelines when using a chainsaw; I assume it's talking about the DRT here? So when using the DdRT or SRT you should only use a hand saw/pruner correct?

Justin
 

Latest posts

Back
Top