Critique my sharpening skills
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ropensaddle
Feel Lucky
The bar is pretty bad mainly lack of maintenance remember to de burr the edge and rail and chain wear will be minimal. Also get a putty knive and clean grooves regular as the oiling holes stop up with trash then a build up begins transferring into the groove. Take a putty knife brace bar on a firm surface and run the putty knife down the groove away from you, it won't take long to see what I mean. If you use that bar lightly grind that burr offor hand file it from the side of bar. You just want the bur off or the corner leaving the part the chain rests on alone!
File's most are made to cut one way dragging backwards dulls its cutting edge remember to tap the file on a hard surface after several strokes to dislodge dust which will build up and also dull file!
Too tight likely! If chain is cold you should be able to lightly pull it in mid bar out of groove then let go and it fall back in place. If you have to pull harder its too tight. Also when hot just snug no extra needed.
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memory
ArboristSite Guru
I will definitely read that, lots of good info in there. I am assuming that had nothing to do with double guard bars. I did notice that in the troubleshooting section, it said worn rails like in my case can be caused by limbing. I do a little bit of limbing, not all the time. Just to get the limbs out of the way of tractors and such while doing field work. I am in the bucket of a tractor and sometimes I have to reach to be able to get to them so I am using the end of the bar more. Maybe that is part of my problem.
I will admit I have not done much in the way or de burring a bar. Can I just use a flat file to de burr the edges? But I don't understand how a burr on the outside edge of the bar can affect the chain. I do clean out the bar groove from time to time. I use a small screwdriver ground down to fit in the groove.
I do clean out my file many times during sharpening.
I really don't think my chain is to tight but I could be wrong. I do not have to pull on the chain that hard.
Tzed, I tried sending you a pm but it would not let me. Anyways, what is the deal with the pic in your sig? What angle is that supposed to be?
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LegDeLimber
Addicted to ArboristSite
Would also recommend getting a "file card" for cleaning the files during use and before putting them away.
A File Card is a stiff wire, short bristled brush and Yep, it too, works in one direction also (pull towards handle)
Sap and oil will tend to help metal bits stick in the file teeth during use.
DO NOT EVER run the files over a motor driven (bench grinder) wire wheel.
dulls them instantly ( known as Deburring-removing the little sharp edges )
you want to keep the teeth sharp.
Ditto on don't drag them backwards.
When looking at files from the tang (handle) end if you can see a shiny/glazed, reflection of light
, it's time for a new file, Compare by looking at a New file
Also, a good file handle can do wonders for your filing technique
If available, clamping the bar in a sturdy bench vise can help ,any chatter/squawking
is a sign that you dulling the file and need to figure a way to steady the chain,
perhaps a little over tightening while filling.
Just be SURE to properly re-tension it after filing.
Also, rust pretty much turns files into emory sticks.
as usual, I type so slowly that someone else has already covered what I was pecking about!
A File Card is a stiff wire, short bristled brush and Yep, it too, works in one direction also (pull towards handle)
Sap and oil will tend to help metal bits stick in the file teeth during use.
DO NOT EVER run the files over a motor driven (bench grinder) wire wheel.
dulls them instantly ( known as Deburring-removing the little sharp edges )
you want to keep the teeth sharp.
Ditto on don't drag them backwards.
When looking at files from the tang (handle) end if you can see a shiny/glazed, reflection of light
, it's time for a new file, Compare by looking at a New file
Also, a good file handle can do wonders for your filing technique
If available, clamping the bar in a sturdy bench vise can help ,any chatter/squawking
is a sign that you dulling the file and need to figure a way to steady the chain,
perhaps a little over tightening while filling.
Just be SURE to properly re-tension it after filing.
Also, rust pretty much turns files into emory sticks.
as usual, I type so slowly that someone else has already covered what I was pecking about!
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J.W Younger
ass kissing impaired
About 3 years ago I picked up a Carlton small mount husky bar, made in china{or t eye wan)From Bailey's fer 12 bucks and change, its held up purty good. Thats a .050 guage .325 pitch plain wrapper bar sold as carlton. Its a crap shoot. Buy a prolite or microllite for 35 bucks in an oregon and know what yer gettin, quality.
binderbasher
ArboristSite Lurker
I have been using a Harbor Freight electric sharpener for a while and it did a really good job. But now it will not sharpen a chain for nothing. I don't know if it is me doing something wrong or the sharpener is a piece of junk.
Anyways, I am going back to hand filing and wanted to see what you guys think of my sharpening. The chain is a .325 pitch, .50 gauge and full chisel using a 3/16 file. After you sharpen, do you remove the burr on the flat side of the cutter? If so, how?
Here are some pics:
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You need to replace your grinding stone or grind the stone flat.
ropensaddle
Feel Lucky
Ok not too tight then, yes if not de burred your bar will cut fine until burried into wood then the burr hangs the woods fibers in the cut and wolla wont cut worth a hoot. Also as burr gets larger it wear the bottom of your links which help create the rocking action in the cut and remove wood. Its very easy to feel for it and should be de burred on regular maintenance a file is actually best for this purpose because a grinder can get greedy!
You have come a long way since your first pics remember sharp,de burred,proper raker height, tension and sproket inspection and groove cleaning all necessary bar p&m
Tzed250
Addicted to ArboristSite
The cutter in my sigpic was ground on a dedicated square chisel chain grinder. Square chisel chain may also be made with a double-bevel chisel bit file. It is a somewhat advanced technique. If you keep trying with the round filing you will get the hang of it.
BTW, the reason you never drag a file backwards is because it ruins the relief. Relief is what allows the cutting edge to work. The reason that the back of the cutter on saw chain is lower than the cutting edge is to provide relief. When the relief on a file is taken away by back dragging it will refuse to cut.
memory
ArboristSite Guru
What angle is that pic taken at? Is the front side of the tooth facing towards the you? That pic just looks like an illusion to me.
I always knew to never drag the file backwards, just never knew why. But I do now.
Tzed250
Addicted to ArboristSite
It is a left hand cutter taken from the right side.
Tzed250
Addicted to ArboristSite
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This may help:
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This may help:
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J.W Younger
ass kissing impaired
All the silver is inside side plate and underneath top plate. The plus side of this type grinding is the side plate is much less blunt than round ground. The minus side is grinder expense/grinding and filing difficulty. Square files are more expensive but will last a long time once you get the hang of it.
gcdible1
ArboristSite Operative
Been sitting back and watching the thread. For what my opinion is worth, here it is. I have had a bar or two in the same shape as yours. I enjoy cutting wood a bunch and when I have time I head on out. My problem is when I am out cutting I tend to keep a dull chain on too long. There have been times where I have pushed really hard to finish a cut.
I have learned bars and chains are not designed to last in those conditions. The combination of a dull chain requiring pressure to pull through a cut and the heat generated from pushing and dragging on the rails spreads them out and wears a groove as your pics show. Unfortunately been there and done that.
I think if you dress that bar with a grinder maybe you can keep it as a spare. Remember, sharp chain and proper tension will keep your bar rail wear to a minimum as you are not pushing through a cut grinding them down.
Thats my 2 cents worth, or maybe just one.
I have learned bars and chains are not designed to last in those conditions. The combination of a dull chain requiring pressure to pull through a cut and the heat generated from pushing and dragging on the rails spreads them out and wears a groove as your pics show. Unfortunately been there and done that.
I think if you dress that bar with a grinder maybe you can keep it as a spare. Remember, sharp chain and proper tension will keep your bar rail wear to a minimum as you are not pushing through a cut grinding them down.
Thats my 2 cents worth, or maybe just one.
ropensaddle
Feel Lucky
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This may help:
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You know 30 years as a pro tree man and I've yet to try sharpening square might use this as guide and give it a try
Tzed250
Addicted to ArboristSite
You know 30 years as a pro tree man and I've yet to try sharpening square might use this as guide and give it a try
If you have some clean wood to cut I think it will put a smile on your face!
memory
ArboristSite Guru
I definitely have learned a lot since starting this thread. I think my main problem before was I was just going through the motions of sharpening and I was not paying that close of attention to the details. Now whenever I sharpen, I will pay closer attention. I have been helping with cutting firewood for years but in the past couple of years, I have really started getting into it more and enjoy messing with firewood now. After all this talk on sharpening, I am wanting to go cut and see how much better I can cut.
I think I have a bar and chain picked out unless someone can convince me otherwise.
Bailey's - Oregon 20" Power Match Chainsaw Bar 78 Drive Links
Bailey's - Oregon 20" Chainsaw Chain Loop
I really do appreciate everybody's help in this thread.
I think I have a bar and chain picked out unless someone can convince me otherwise.
Bailey's - Oregon 20" Power Match Chainsaw Bar 78 Drive Links
Bailey's - Oregon 20" Chainsaw Chain Loop
I really do appreciate everybody's help in this thread.
One thing I didn't see mentioned. I would not run your old chains on your new bar. If the bottom of the rivets are worn uneven, it may ware the bar down uneven also.
Just my .02
Sam
Just my .02
Sam
Decent info here - Carlton Chain sharpening Complete Book
and here - Guide Bar & Saw Chain Menu regarding a lot things chain and bar related.
I am using an Oregon 30846 12-Volt Sure Sharp Chain Saw Sharpener which is a dremel like set up. Just curious if I am okay to move it back and forth while sharpening, or do I just hold it in one spot or push it through one direction only like when using a normal file?
Also the stone gets clogged up pretty good after a few uses, any tips on what is the easiest method on cleaning it out?
Great tool and I really like using it, makes fast work of sharpening and imo really does a good job. I'll post up pics of a chain when I get home from work.
and here - Guide Bar & Saw Chain Menu regarding a lot things chain and bar related.
I am using an Oregon 30846 12-Volt Sure Sharp Chain Saw Sharpener which is a dremel like set up. Just curious if I am okay to move it back and forth while sharpening, or do I just hold it in one spot or push it through one direction only like when using a normal file?
Also the stone gets clogged up pretty good after a few uses, any tips on what is the easiest method on cleaning it out?
Great tool and I really like using it, makes fast work of sharpening and imo really does a good job. I'll post up pics of a chain when I get home from work.
Hedgerow
HACK
You know 30 years as a pro tree man and I've yet to try sharpening square might use this as guide and give it a try
You would love how they cut... But hand filing them may cause you undue mental anguish...
This of course depends on your frame of mind while doing it...
Tip:
Clean the gullets out real good with a round file first...
Less chatter when filing...
J.W Younger
ass kissing impaired
Need to keep an eye on raker depth. If you use the progressive method such as the file-o-plate or husky roller guide its pretty common to find em past 40 on a chain below half life. Square don't like raker clearances much over 25. If you are just practising on a used chain it don't matter but if your gonna cut with it, start with a chain with tall enough rakers.
Actually it would be a lot eaiser to start with a new or square ground chain. At least have a square cutter to look at.
Actually it would be a lot eaiser to start with a new or square ground chain. At least have a square cutter to look at.
