cutting roots in dirt.

[Valpen]

We have been clearing some old growth pine that has grown slowly on bedrock around our cabin/cottage. It is on top of a bedrock ridge with no nutrients other than it's own needles and the water it can get when it rains. The technic we use was to winch the whole tree over to expose the clean rock. The near root system is cut out of the extended root system. Which leaves you with a tree together with the near root system to remove. It is hard work but the result is granite bedrock to walk on...

• Use a decent high pressure hose with at "turbo-nozzle" to cut thru the root mat and/or clean the wood before using your saw. We would cut wheelbarrow-size chunk off the root system by "cutting" the dirt with the turbo-nozzle, 2-3" lopping shears for the smaller roots, and a chainsaw for the larger roots. I would have loved to have had a small "bobcat" to help, but all around are wild blueberry bushes that need to be undisturbed.
• The roots on these very old, very dense, slow growing trees are extremely tough and sinewy. I tried a sawsall with wood blades, demolition blades, everything without efficient results. The Stihl Duro (carbide) chains are very good, but very brittle. If there is any contact with a stone fragment in the root area, the teeth just chip off the chain (the carbide cutting teeth are welded onto the chain). I now have 2 carbide chains, one with 1/4 of the teeth, and one with 7/8 of the teeth. They work very well while they last, but they are expensive.
• The current solution is an old bar, and 2 old safety chains that get sharpened commercially that I keep just for root-work. To hand-file these chains after use is not worth the time IMO.

 

[Stihl User]

OK, I know to dig first or air spade, but getting laxy in old age.
Removing 4 flowering cherry trees with very extensive roots, some of the roots are a foot in diameter.
Am pulling the entire tree (some 20 in dia trunk, pic) first with winch and blocks (120,000# pull) but there is a LOT of lawn damage when roots come up so want to cut roots below surface without digging.
Is there a clever sharpening angle to file old chains to minimize dulling in dirt? I have any number of old worn out chains, a, using them up filing down to just a 1/16" of tooth left.

Pic note: cable and single block shown was just final pull to break off a cut root, main pull was 4 more blocks - top of stump shows wire strands where I broke my 3/4" wire rope chocker and needed a grade 80 5/8" double chin for choker. Had tired a higher attach point but snapped off the trunk. Figured it took over 100,000# to pull this puppy.
View attachment 914349

When necessary, I would cut roots with my chainsaw.
A. Use the smallest bar & chain per application.
B. Stihl Green Label safety chain works best as the triple hump clears dirt and helps protect the cutting tooth.
C. Use bars & chains that you were ready to discard.
D. Clear as much dirt/rocks as possible prior to making the cut.
E. If available, use garden hose to blast away and prep the cutting area.
F. Have multiple chains ready to go for this proceedure.
G. I always use this same setup when suspecting or encountering metal in trunk/log/stump.

MOST IMPORTANT: Do not use your expensive pro saw - it is a great idea to keep a low end $$$ saw for this purpose.

 

[Marine5068]

Create mulch beds over the roots and plant flowers/shrubs.

You can add an inch or two of inches of loose soil over the roots without causing significant damage.

Set the mower a lot higher over the root area.

I would have done that when trees were living and not deal with cutting over roots at all.
Think ahead and outside the box.

 

[kenmbz]

I used a sawzall with an agressive I think 5 TPI wood blade for oak and cherry roots.
Most were in the 4-8" range and went through about three blades over a few hours work.
Used small backhoe to expose the roots and rip out the smaller ones.
Roots had dirt squeezed between them that even a spike and hammer could not force out.
So chain on CS would not have lasted long.

 

[Robes]

Carbide Blade in your Sawzall.

Great Idea!

 

[ray benson]

Sawzall with 12" bi-metal blades 2-3 teeth per inch. Resharpen them with a grinder and hand file. They dull pretty fast plunging in the dirt. Keep 3 or 4 backup blades in the case.