Running bowline up, or lace down backside to clove etc. Perhaps lacing thru the head to place diffrent pulls against the hinge as line is tensioned.
We generally pull with ropes, install cables for support for saving trees (therefore would not whear any type of 'spurs') on 'cabling'.
Also would lean away from any metal spurs, cable around power lines, personally.
Sometimes i feel it is better not to tighten line till after the face is cut on any forward lean..... Then, might tense to secure, no real pull, till she starts to 'breathe'. In back lean, high leverage, positive pull, easy on face, then tightening up, keep it tighter, but still have to wait till she is ready, and not rush her. Wimmens don't like that!
All you need is overwhelming force nudging it into the right direction, and off setting contrary pulls, not a lot of force, when applied with high leverage and good timing.
i believe in forcing a hinge to fold earlier than it wants (with slow cutting, strong pulling)to a meatier hinge.
i also beleive in offsetting pulls perpendicular to the folding of the hinge with hinge fibre as much as possible for correction. This is species and condition dependant as to what can be yielded here. Mike's favaorite highline of leverage to adjust C.o.B. directly works, and is best in compromised wood. But unless on a long slow draw ushering the spar down by flexing it on the hinge quite some arc, i find that in good wood, the taapered hinge ot give a wider range of control (with wide face and good wood). For as soon as the tension is off the pull line, it's adjustment contribution is over.
The hinge provides adjustment for as long as it is tensed too, usually longer. This would make tapeered hinge better for controlling fall through other trees, as the hinge could maintain pressure pushing into tree that is pusshing it away, for balance of force, and truer felling accuracy. The tapered hinge is also self adjusting.
Or something like that!
:alien:
