damaged piston/cylinder? husqvarna 254xp
- Thread starter MartDalb
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2016
- Messages
- 1,815
- Reaction score
- 2,780
No need for any special tools if you're not replacing bearings. You can pry the seals out with a screwdriver if you are careful.
That case should have been thoroughly cleaned before disassembly. If you don't have a parts cleaning sink, I would put that whole assembly in the kitchen sink and clean it with hot soapy water inside and out, then rinse the inside with mixed fuel, then finish with a few drops of 2 cycle oil in each bearing.
That case should have been thoroughly cleaned before disassembly. If you don't have a parts cleaning sink, I would put that whole assembly in the kitchen sink and clean it with hot soapy water inside and out, then rinse the inside with mixed fuel, then finish with a few drops of 2 cycle oil in each bearing.
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2016
- Messages
- 1,815
- Reaction score
- 2,780
Some guys will fashion a tool like this to make seal removal easier.
Again...someone isn't watching the vids. More study...THEN questions.
The seal in the metal holder pops out with a socket...like ....9/16"
The seal on the pto side pops out with tools as described above. ...if you can get the worm off. Getting the worm off you need a puller. Do it cheap...it's possible.
The seal in the metal holder pops out with a socket...like ....9/16"
The seal on the pto side pops out with tools as described above. ...if you can get the worm off. Getting the worm off you need a puller. Do it cheap...it's possible.
Will try, thx a ton for all the help.
Should i fail, will the missing replacement of the seals most likely cause piston cylinder to fail quickly?
I will try to just replace the piston either way. Unless ofc. its pointless.
Should i fail, will the missing replacement of the seals most likely cause piston cylinder to fail quickly?
I will try to just replace the piston either way. Unless ofc. its pointless.
Again... someone hasn't been watching my vids.
There is a reason that piston failed. Unless you diagnose it, it will undoubtedly fail again. If one of those crank seals is bad, or the case gasket is leaking....it'll cause a brandy new piston and cylinder to fail....again. That leads to piles of frustration and usually ya end up throwing the saw in the river. ...and it isn't the saw's fault. Its yours cause you didn't diagnose the issue properly.
In this case, its possible this saw had straight gas in its history. But, since this is likely an early 1990's chainsaw, the RUBBER seals are 20+years old.... rubber breaks down, so generally good policy to replace the rubber bits on saws (and cars) before its too late. imho, the age of the saw alone constitutes a full teardown. It isn't that hard to do. There are a few extra tools you may need, but compared to buying a new saw its pretty inexpensive.
I hate to sound like a broken record here, but one of the reasons I make the videos (and spend HOURS editing etc) is because there are many questions that are common in sawbuilding.
a question similar to : "Should i fail, will the missing replacement of the seals most likely cause piston cylinder to fail quickly? " comes up all the time because some genius undoubtedly buys a new piston and cylinder to put on an old saw and doesn't actually figure out why the thing failed in the first place. This is a sure fire way to frustration. it happens all the time. its silly for members of such forums to keep answering the same question over and over and over again, when there can be a reference of videos to watch first. i know my vids are quite lengthy, but the idea is that they are packed with information that I have acquired through reading these forums every single day for the last 4 years....and by my own hand as well. Once the basic and common questions are answered, here on the forum we can get down to the nitty gritty and start answering the oddball questions.... which incidentally ... kinda the whole point of such a forum....as opposed to answering common questions over and over again.
I used to get frustrated when teachers sent me to the library to look up something....that didn't exist. used to spent hours researching topics that had no answer. Now we have youtube....there are far more answers than ever, just have to spend a little bit of time. I don't have all the answers, but I've dedicated the last 2 years to answering most of the common questions on my channel. The best way for you to be respectful of me and my time is to spend a little bit...and tiny fraction of the time I've spent and check out the vids. Take notes. THEN come here with questions and anyone here will bend over backwards to help ya.
There is a reason that piston failed. Unless you diagnose it, it will undoubtedly fail again. If one of those crank seals is bad, or the case gasket is leaking....it'll cause a brandy new piston and cylinder to fail....again. That leads to piles of frustration and usually ya end up throwing the saw in the river. ...and it isn't the saw's fault. Its yours cause you didn't diagnose the issue properly.
In this case, its possible this saw had straight gas in its history. But, since this is likely an early 1990's chainsaw, the RUBBER seals are 20+years old.... rubber breaks down, so generally good policy to replace the rubber bits on saws (and cars) before its too late. imho, the age of the saw alone constitutes a full teardown. It isn't that hard to do. There are a few extra tools you may need, but compared to buying a new saw its pretty inexpensive.
I hate to sound like a broken record here, but one of the reasons I make the videos (and spend HOURS editing etc) is because there are many questions that are common in sawbuilding.
a question similar to : "Should i fail, will the missing replacement of the seals most likely cause piston cylinder to fail quickly? " comes up all the time because some genius undoubtedly buys a new piston and cylinder to put on an old saw and doesn't actually figure out why the thing failed in the first place. This is a sure fire way to frustration. it happens all the time. its silly for members of such forums to keep answering the same question over and over and over again, when there can be a reference of videos to watch first. i know my vids are quite lengthy, but the idea is that they are packed with information that I have acquired through reading these forums every single day for the last 4 years....and by my own hand as well. Once the basic and common questions are answered, here on the forum we can get down to the nitty gritty and start answering the oddball questions.... which incidentally ... kinda the whole point of such a forum....as opposed to answering common questions over and over again.
I used to get frustrated when teachers sent me to the library to look up something....that didn't exist. used to spent hours researching topics that had no answer. Now we have youtube....there are far more answers than ever, just have to spend a little bit of time. I don't have all the answers, but I've dedicated the last 2 years to answering most of the common questions on my channel. The best way for you to be respectful of me and my time is to spend a little bit...and tiny fraction of the time I've spent and check out the vids. Take notes. THEN come here with questions and anyone here will bend over backwards to help ya.
oh, and a common reasons for bad seals (other than age)..... bad bearings. visually your bearing on the flywheel side looks fine... but who knows.
installing a pto crank seal on a 262xp / 254xp will be similar to this 394xp ....ideally good to use the coke can trick
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2016
- Messages
- 1,815
- Reaction score
- 2,780
Great info and advice Mattyo. The reason I flagged your name here in the first place was because I knew if the OP just spent a couple hours watching certain videos you have posted on youtube, he would soon have a very good understanding of where he is and where he needs to go, and how he needs to do it. Your channel is a superb learning resource for the uninitiated.
Thanks for the kind words CJ ... I'm trying...I really am. I'm no pro either, just a guy thats learning and wants to share.
To the OP, i'm really trying to not be condescending here, but you've had a recommendation from another member to bring me here for advice, and I've given advice (ie, watch the vids) and ya haven't taken it. Research first, THEN questions. If I've missed something in my vids, I usually do a vid to fill the gap. In fact, the 262xp worm gear removal was just such a vid... one of the guys wanted a more thorough vid on it (Landmark I think?) ... so I did it. So if you find my vids lacking in some way, please let me know.
To the OP, i'm really trying to not be condescending here, but you've had a recommendation from another member to bring me here for advice, and I've given advice (ie, watch the vids) and ya haven't taken it. Research first, THEN questions. If I've missed something in my vids, I usually do a vid to fill the gap. In fact, the 262xp worm gear removal was just such a vid... one of the guys wanted a more thorough vid on it (Landmark I think?) ... so I did it. So if you find my vids lacking in some way, please let me know.
Take your time. You'll get it. Always get into trouble when I rush
dswensen
ArboristSite Guru
List of things to replace so far.
Fuel filter
Spark Plug (just because)
Oil pump (most likely)
Piston + bearing
Gaskets? (haven't seen any gaskets that has been damaged or worn to a point that it's obvisouly broken)
Sealing Colar (plastic piece between carburator and cylinder is broken)
anything I forgot?
All this seal and bearing work makes me wonder. I'm not a Husky guy, but I see above that OP had replaced a broken sealing collar between Carb and Cylinder. Isn't that a likely source for air leaks?
no, thats just more of an air guide/block .... so air from the carb box leak towards the fins on the cylinder. not an air leak in the intake tract
I've seen a lot of sealing collars broken though, it seems like a part that fatigues over time and its really a pain because its just one other thing to replace during a rebuild. a nice touch if its replaced though
good question.....
good question.....
So I am to understand that the broken sealing colar, while broken, and needs replacement, does not cause engine stall and piston/cylinder damage .
And yes, Mattyo, progress will be slower from here on, wife agro, she wants the chicken coop done, apprerently I have been slacking.....now construction, that I DO know something about..
.And yes, Mattyo, progress will be slower from here on, wife agro, she wants the chicken coop done, apprerently I have been slacking.....now construction, that I DO know something about..
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2016
- Messages
- 1,815
- Reaction score
- 2,780
Post up a pic of the broken collar if you can.So I am to understand that the broken sealing colar, while broken, and needs replacement, does not cause engine stall and piston/cylinder damage
And yes, Mattyo, progress will be slower from here on, wife agro, she wants the chicken coop done, apprerently I have been slacking.....now construction, that I DO know something about..
Similar threads
