damaged piston/cylinder? husqvarna 254xp

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Why not do the cylinder first? Thing is, you dont need to order any parts before your cylinder is fixed.
If you sand with power tool, go slow, and be careful, if its your first time you may hand sand around the ports.

Ive seen cylinders far worse then yours who ended up well.

Later parts......
The greek is the cheapest Meteor piston seller.....there is a lad in Latvia who sell clutch drum for 14-15€.....you can check up seal&o ring prices at a Husky dealer in Denmark, etc etc etc

Btw, post up your serial number, it is far easier to know what you're working with.
 
List is long....but not "that" expensive.
The bearings for the piston and oil pump etc. all seem fine, so not replacing them unless i'm told by wiser people.


MUST HAVES:
Piston kit
Seal kit (gaskets and seals for cylinder/etc)
Carburator repair kit (might as well while I am at it)
Spark plug
Fuel filter

MAYBE:
Clutch drum for plastic worm gear (is the worm gear included btw?)
New oil pump?
probleby the cheapest place you find Meteor pistons in Europe:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Piston-Kit-...m-503503701-/400842553370?hash=item5d5413f81a

Call around to a few Husky dealers in Denmark and get price on:
OEM seals: 2 of them # 505 27 57 19
O ring: # 740 48 27 02
Gaskets: # 501 86 25 02, 501 86 21 02, 503 70 48 01
Fuel line (guess you got the old straight type): # 581 75 61 03, if its the pig tail type its # 581 75 62 01
Fuel filter: # 503 44 32 01

Plug, just buy one NGK BPMR7A

There is a Walbro dealer in Denmark, Busk & Svith, their telephone number is: 458631600, the carb kit you want is K22-HDA.
If you're only swapping carb gaskets you may consider oem # 503 54 76 01 who is a kit with gaskets only.

Clutch drum? I wouldnt bother to swap over to the new type if your drum is okey. There is two different type oil pumps to the 254, the old one with a narrow hole and the newer type with a bigger hole for the plastic worm gear, no one know exactly when Husky swapped oil pump but it happen well before the plastic worm gear arriveded.


Been cleaning it by hand.. Hoping that will do it
just make sure there isnt any alu transfer left.
 
holy.....nice work Tor R, I will be looking into every info you gave me here.

Am I to understand that saving money "non original" parts like seals and gaskets aren't worth it?
I am guessing by buying from a Danish Husq dealer I will be paying a lot more than if I bought some aftermarket gasket/seal package, like the ones on Ebay.
 
holy.....nice work Tor R, I will be looking into every info you gave me here.

Am I to understand that saving money "non original" parts like seals and gaskets aren't worth it?
I am guessing by buying from a Danish Husq dealer I will be paying a lot more than if I bought some aftermarket gasket/seal package, like the ones on Ebay.
call to around 3 different dealers, none of them will have the same price, pick the dealer you prefer.
I can give you a ruffly estimate how much you has to pay for buying oem ( if its close to norwegian prices), and its kinda max price also.....
Seal, 90-110dkk each
O ring, 30 dkk
Fuel line, 40-50dkk
Fuel filter, 50dkk
Cylinder gasket, 40-50dkk
The two different gasket for the intake, around 25dkk each

Ngk plug around 40-50dkk, many who sell them ;)
Gasket kit from your Walbro dealer, around 80-100dkk
If you go for the oem kit number I gave you it's around 100-120dkk.

Another thing I swap on those 254's is the clutch spring when I'm there, its one of the first thing I do on 242 also, # 501 45 61 01, its a 30-40dkk spring, if yours are old and worn a new spring will give you 3-400rpm better idle.

I buy AM parts now and then, there is nothing wrong with saving money, but DKK and NKR is weak nowadays and Euros, dollars and pound is high, right now it isnt such a bad deal to buy stuff from our own countries ;)

Tor R has done just a smidgen more of these than me ;)

Good stuff gents
thanks Matt for your kind words.
Hey, I pick up quite a bit learning from you also.
 
update...
succes, as pictures will show, the wormgear came off.
I will however keep the tool used for it a secret, mostly because it wasn't pretty! :ices_rofl:, but off it came, in the end.

The seal has been removed as well, it seemed VERY old and crisp (if that's the right term?)

Next step.
Ordering items!


Again, I can't thank all of you in the thread enough! awesome help!

WP_20170530_21_00_30_Pro.jpg WP_20170530_20_59_53_Pro.jpg
 
This msg, is mainly for Tor R, but check out how close his numbers hit vs. what the parts ends up costing me from Huskqwarna dealer here in DK.
/respect

Navn Stk Pris Pris
1 501 79 94 01 SKÆRMPLADE 154 61.00 61.00 kr.
2 505 27 57 19 TÆTNINGSRING 101.00 202.00 kr.
1 740 48 27 02 O-RING T/TÆTN.PLADE154 27.00 27.00 kr.
1 501 86 25 02 KARBURATORPAKNING 19.00 19.00 kr.
1 501 86 21 02 PAKNING MELLEMSTYKKE 33.00 33.00 kr.
1 503 70 48 01 PAKNING 50.00 50.00 kr.
1 581 75 61 03 BENZINSLANGE 41.00 41.00 kr.
1 503 44 32 01 BENZINFILTER 54.00 54.00 kr.
1 503 54 76 01 MEMBRANSATS 158.00 158.00 kr.
1 501 45 61 01 KOBLINGSFJEDER B370/440 34.00 34.00 kr.
1 cj7y TÆNDRØR 45.00 45.00 kr.

I alt DKK 779 kr.
 
This msg, is mainly for Tor R, but check out how close his numbers hit vs. what the parts ends up costing me from Huskqwarna dealer here in DK.
/respect

Navn Stk Pris Pris
1 501 79 94 01 SKÆRMPLADE 154 61.00 61.00 kr.
2 505 27 57 19 TÆTNINGSRING 101.00 202.00 kr.
1 740 48 27 02 O-RING T/TÆTN.PLADE154 27.00 27.00 kr.
1 501 86 25 02 KARBURATORPAKNING 19.00 19.00 kr.
1 501 86 21 02 PAKNING MELLEMSTYKKE 33.00 33.00 kr.
1 503 70 48 01 PAKNING 50.00 50.00 kr.
1 581 75 61 03 BENZINSLANGE 41.00 41.00 kr.
1 503 44 32 01 BENZINFILTER 54.00 54.00 kr.
1 503 54 76 01 MEMBRANSATS 158.00 158.00 kr.
1 501 45 61 01 KOBLINGSFJEDER B370/440 34.00 34.00 kr.
1 cj7y TÆNDRØR 45.00 45.00 kr.

I alt DKK 779 kr.
was not so bad ;) maybe a tad over what I expected since your currency is higher then ours, but Husky Denmark may be a tad more greedy.

That pricey OEM carb kit is better then Walbros K22 HDA kit, for those who wonder this is the gasket where OEM is better:
thumb.png
 
now...about equipment from this point on.

The carburator, will need a cleaning. I don't have compressed air available, I can get some carb. cleaner.
Will I need to swing by someone with a compressor for the air cleaning of the carburator?
Or simply buy one.... :blob2:

by the way, I did NOT order a piston bearing (seeing as this was not listed, should I have?), it's not too late for it :)
 
The seal has been removed as well, it seemed VERY old and crisp (if that's the right term?)
those old 254/262 and 242 seals is awful, its the first I swap out.
The new style seals you get is a far better design.

Clutch side seal, remember that its not mounted flush with crankcase, its 1.5mm before its flush
 
now...about equipment from this point on.

The carburator, will need a cleaning. I don't have compressed air available, I can get some carb. cleaner.
Will I need to swing by someone with a compressor for the air cleaning of the carburator?
Or simply buy one.... :blob2:

by the way, I did NOT order a piston bearing (seeing as this was not listed, should I have?), it's not too late for it :)
break cleaner will also do the job on your carb, if you also blast it with compressor remember that little screen filter, I've blasted many of them away lol

No need to purchase that piston bearing, not often there is a reason to swap them.
I've only seen one broken piston bearing out of 20 project saws, but then, there wasnt much left of that saw lol
50-100dkk bearing I guess
 

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