dissecting an earthquake chainsaw

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I got sniped on one of them. Now I only have one on the way. I think I'll take a break from buying them for a bit until he brings the prices down again.





Ahhhh, who am I kidding? I'll bid on another one before morning...:bang::bang:
 
Stephen C. said:
yes that dropped the cylinder down on the piston retarding the port timimg causing the exhaust port to open later. When you widened the port did you also raise it the thickness of the gasket to maintain the origional port timing:msp_confused:
Click to expand...

never really understood why you would raise the exhaust the base gasket is thin on these anyway, but if you was intending on getting more compression from leaving the gasket out wouldnt you leave the exhuast port height the same or retarded.
 
Got mine in the mail today. Missing the oil, and scrench. Bar and chain never saw wood, and got me excited, until I took off the top part of cardboard and saw the saw. The saw is covered in oil, gas, and sawdust, with a few of the stickers torn off. They even left gas in it for me :bang:

Will check over the weekend, and make sure the P+C still look good. Fingers crossed.
 
Gushh said:
clogged impulse port/line or hi-jet on the craftsman for sure, it usually happens when they sit for a long time.
Click to expand...
thanks, will tear it down again tonight and see what's what. Today was spent modding the muff on the EQ...turned out great! will post pics, etc later. I still have to pull the carb and slot the L and H screws to re-tune after the mod...don't have any brake or fuel line to make a tool out of.
 
stinkbait said:
After

[video=youtube_share;dp7kmMJAE5g]http://youtu.be/dp7kmMJAE5g[/video]
Click to expand...

good job,, yours woke up too,,, btw,, your 1 ugly sob :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
i did not raise the exhaust port,, i just widen the port,,,
i just got done with the other 2 i got today and they really woke up too,, takes me about an hour to do each one,,the only problem i seen on the used one was there was a bit of scuffing on the exhaust side of the piston,, it had been used,, both where blowing 150 when i got them done
ohhhhhh you moochers,, i did get the other 3 today,, they should be delivered sometime next week
 
o8f150 said:
good job,, yours woke up too,,, btw,, your 1 ugly sob :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
i did not raise the exhaust port,, i just widen the port,,,
i just got done with the other 2 i got today and they really woke up too,, takes me about an hour to do each one,,the only problem i seen on the used one was there was a bit of scuffing on the exhaust side of the piston,, it had been used,, both where blowing 150 when i got them done
ohhhhhh you moochers,, i did get the other 3 today,, they should be delivered sometime next week
Click to expand...

I didn't raise my exhaust either. The main reason is because mine had crappy compression out of the box. I think I'm going back in. I am going to turn the cylinder base this time and get more compression. I am also going for a bigger carb.

I got around 29% gain in cut speed, but I want more.
 
Last edited:
Wow, those are completely different animal when ported!!

I'd have to send mine off though to have it done.


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk
 
naturelover said:
Wow, those are completely different animal when ported!!

I'd have to send mine off though to have it done.


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I could hook you up. Nothing crazy though. Just widening the ports, removing the base gasket, and gutting the muffler. By the time you pay to ship it to me and back to you it will cost more than you have in the saw though.
 
Yea, that be true.

I am mainly using it for a trail saw, should work okay for that. Will use one for small stuff around the house, or shortening up firewood for the garage stove.

Also have the two 2000's that I need to fix up for a trail saw.

Appreciate the offer though! :)

Idk, might get brave and tear into one if I keep buying these things.


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk
 
how's the cat?

I'm wondering if it's necessary when doing a MM to disassemble the muffler to take the cat plate out? Is the cat restrictive?

I wanted to do a before and after comparo with my first Earthquake, but it wouldn't cut at full throttle straight from the box. I needed to adjust the carb, so I took the carb off to cut slots in the needles.

Since I had it on the bench, I cut a 1 inch by 1/2 inch window in the front of the muffler. I need to get some oxygen for my torch to heat up the crimp so I can peel the muffler apart, but then I started thinking I may not even need to remove the cat if it's not restricting flow.
 
rmihalek said:
I'm wondering if it's necessary when doing a MM to disassemble the muffler to take the cat plate out? Is the cat restrictive?

I wanted to do a before and after comparo with my first Earthquake, but it wouldn't cut at full throttle straight from the box. I needed to adjust the carb, so I took the carb off to cut slots in the needles.

Since I had it on the bench, I cut a 1 inch by 1/2 inch window in the front of the muffler. I need to get some oxygen for my torch to heat up the crimp so I can peel the muffler apart, but then I started thinking I may not even need to remove the cat if it's not restricting flow.
Click to expand...

Look at the baffling system in the pictures of the muffler taken apart. I don't see how just cutting into the front cover would help much without getting into the "guts".

You know, all I did was set up my drill press and drill 1/2" holes (2 of them) through the baffles of the muffler from the engine side of the muffler (though the muffler "in" window). Paid attention to not go all the way through, and kept drillling until I could see daylight coming in from the "gills" on the front of the muffler. Pretty crude, but it worked like a charm, and you can't see the carnage inside the muffler once what's left of the muffler has been re-installed.

Hillbilly muff mod? Yep. Whatever works!!
 
today's MM

Pt 1

Got the muffler done today alone with slotting the adjustment screws

Rather than heat up and futz with bending the crimp I just ground off the edge and separated the 3 sections. The center section is discarded leaving just two pcs to weld back together.
View attachment 271320
View attachment 271321
View attachment 271322

The baffle behind the screen was also cut off and the original hole broadened to something approaching that of the exhaust port.
View attachment 271323

Open up the hole in the support bracket/screen holder
View attachment 271324
 
MM pt 2

I peaned the screen cover to better push down on the screen. Then drilled a small hole for a sheet metal screw to better secure the screen.
View attachment 271326
View attachment 271327

Hole is a little larger than the exhaust port. I'll eventually port the cylinder and then widen the muffler in/out holes at a later date.
View attachment 271328

tacking in the inner piece and bolt sleeves. I used some 10-32 screws to keep the sleeves in line. After welding they were pretty darn close but still had to tweek them a tad to line up with the front cover.
View attachment 271329
View attachment 271330
 
singinwoodwackr said:
slotting the adjustment screws with a small carbide burr (was the only way I could figure out how to do it :p) I would rather have gotten a thinner slot but this at least works]
Click to expand...

You need the discs. Might have to remove the screw first, but will get a nice slot.

Thanks for the step-by-step photos.

Philbert
 
i use a dremel with a thin cut disk,, i don't even take the mixture screws out,, i just cut the slot which also cuts into the carb housing but that doesn't hurt a thing
 

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