Do You Prefer: "Full Wrap vs. Half Wrap Handlebars"

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Full Wrap vs. Half Wrap Handlebars for Tree Falling

  • Full Wrap

    Votes: 51 47.7%
  • Half Wrap

    Votes: 56 52.3%

  • Total voters
    107

ProMac1K

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Do you prefer full wrap or half wrap handlebars for your tree falling operations? And what saw do you prefer for falling operations?

List your where you cut, and your preferences and experiences with each style if you desire.

Thanks
 
Last edited:
Full wrap-you are not allowed to fall trees (logging that is) in this province without a full wrap handle-fact.
 
Never used a full wrap much untill lately. Now I keep a full on the 390 and a flush cut for finishing stumps on residences on the 372.
 
Whats the reason for the full wrap BC law? To ensure that someone can use whichever side presents the safest cut? And I would assume by full wrap law they really mean 3/4 right?
 
Whats the reason for the full wrap BC law? To ensure that someone can use whichever side presents the safest cut? And I would assume by full wrap law they really mean 3/4 right?

By 3/4 I figure you mean like on a 066 Stihl? Thats ok. The reason is so that you can put in a humbolt undercut while standing on the safe side of the tree. You are also not allowed to backbar the saw. So, unless you were more limp wristed than Liberace, its impossible to do it without a wrap handle. Also makes it easier to limb and buck in unfavorable positions.
 
Ya I know but do you really like the full wrap, if you didn't have to have it?

Have it on all my saws, 'cept for the 200T. Its great when some homeowner says "Can't you cut the stump a bit lower?" I show them it cannot be done, if my saws had half a handle I would be cutting on the ground, no thanks.
 
3/4 wrap: yes. Full wrap: sometimes. Half wrap: sure. They all have their advantages. Being able to cut everything from the safe side of the tree is a major bonus, but smaller and narrower is nice too. My main work saw has a 3/4 wrap, so I guess you can sort of see where my loyalties lie. I am a fireline faller rather than a commercial faller, so I'm mainly concerned with safety rather than saving cash on the stump, which means that my 3/4 is for speed and safety.

3/4 saved my bacon the other day when a rotten, burning snag sat down on my face cut -- I just powered through, watching the top, 'til the bar was free again, then, without moving, I flipped the saw over and dropped the beast. That would have been uncomfortable, at the least, with a 1/2 wrap handle. If I'd had to walk around to the other side, it may well have fallen on me. It was not a normal tree, so normal falling rules didn't apply. I was glad of the extra safety margin I had due to my 3/4 wrap handle when the rotten hulk fell about 15 degrees off of my planned line.
 
On the 088 the full wrap is needed with the bigger trees.

I hate it most of the time. But when it is needed.....
 
I like them both but I don't like the full wrap for bar changing. I cut the end off my scrench, I do bring out the full if the customer is not paying for stump removal. I had not used a full for over 20 years I do like their sturdy characteristics though.
 
None of this wrap handle stuff makes any sense to me, what can a wrap handle saw do that a normal saw can't do?? Cutting on the 'safe' side of the tree, WTF does that mean? As far as 'not being allowed to backbar' I assume that means cutting with the lower side of the bar only, well I've never heard such a crock of B.S. in all my life
 
None of this wrap handle stuff makes any sense to me, what can a wrap handle saw do that a normal saw can't do?? Cutting on the 'safe' side of the tree, WTF does that mean? As far as 'not being allowed to backbar' I assume that means cutting with the lower side of the bar only, well I've never heard such a crock of B.S. in all my life

Safe side would usually be the uphill side, but not always. Back bar is the top of the bar, like if you are holding the saw looking down, thats the top, where the chain hangs if its loose, thats the bottom.

Safe side, thats a no brainer. No back barring, I don't agree.

What can a wrap handle do that a half can't-read the #6 post.
 
clearance ol' buddy... you can explain it all day and they just won't get it. Whether he thinks it a "crock" :laugh: or not... I wouldn't go any further explainin' it.

I use 3/4 wraps myself...

Gary
 
nothing but full wraps for me, well, i guess 3/4 wraps on the stihls, and full wrap on the husky....wouldnt know what to do without em'
 
None of this wrap handle stuff makes any sense to me, what can a wrap handle saw do that a normal saw can't do?? Cutting on the 'safe' side of the tree, WTF does that mean? As far as 'not being allowed to backbar' I assume that means cutting with the lower side of the bar only, well I've never heard such a crock of B.S. in all my life

pgg i think there trying to explain away there seriously FU*KED UP health and safety regs, i reacon you are bang on the money there mate, i hope there daft back barring rule dont end up here in nz, i can honestly say i would do 40-50% of my cutting with the top of the bar.
 
I don't have a full or 3/4, have thought about one for one of the 361s. I am hunting for a full wrap for the 38 super, so I can't say I prefer one over the other.
 
i hope there daft back barring rule dont end up here in nz, i can honestly say i would do 40-50% of my cutting with the top of the bar.

Thats all fine and dandy on smaller tree's you start getting into bigger stuff and it becomes very labor intensive, it makes it much easier to cut with the bottom of the bar and let the saw do the work.
 
Like the others, on my bigger saws if I'm not cutting stumps as low as possible I use 3/4 or full wrap. I can certainly do the work with a halfwrap/flush-cut handlebar, but I find the maneuverability of the saw to be much better with the 3/4 or full wrap.
 
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