Do You Prefer: "Full Wrap vs. Half Wrap Handlebars"

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Full Wrap vs. Half Wrap Handlebars for Tree Falling

  • Full Wrap

    Votes: 51 47.7%
  • Half Wrap

    Votes: 56 52.3%

  • Total voters
    107
PDR_0650.jpg
 
Ok

I'll admit that for an arborist a half wrap makes a lot of sense. Sorter stumps.

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For me every time I buy a used saw with a half wrap its just a hassle to change out.

I wish to identify myself as a typical American.

Half wraps need to be discontinued to make my life easier.
 
hm... well i use a 3/4 wrap...when you fall trees in the pnw (or anywhere i would guess) the full wrap handle is essential. anyone who thinks differently just isnt a faller and doesnt understand. oh and my main falling saw is a 044
 
3/4 wrap: yes. Full wrap: sometimes. Half wrap: sure. They all have their advantages. Being able to cut everything from the safe side of the tree is a major bonus, but smaller and narrower is nice too. My main work saw has a 3/4 wrap, so I guess you can sort of see where my loyalties lie. I am a fireline faller rather than a commercial faller, so I'm mainly concerned with safety rather than saving cash on the stump, which means that my 3/4 is for speed and safety.

3/4 saved my bacon the other day when a rotten, burning snag sat down on my face cut -- I just powered through, watching the top, 'til the bar was free again, then, without moving, I flipped the saw over and dropped the beast. That would have been uncomfortable, at the least, with a 1/2 wrap handle. If I'd had to walk around to the other side, it may well have fallen on me. It was not a normal tree, so normal falling rules didn't apply. I was glad of the extra safety margin I had due to my 3/4 wrap handle when the rotten hulk fell about 15 degrees off of my planned line.

how do you become a fireline faller i want to do that bad
 
I work as a forestry technician year-round, which puts me on the fireline during the fire season. Chainsaws are as important a tool as pulaskis, and often cutting line it goes sawyer, swamper, pulaski, adze hoe, shovel. "S-212 Power Saws" is one of the qualifications you can get as you work through the ranks in wildfire.

Cutting on the fireline is way different than cutting commercially. Fast is more important than accurate. Often there will be big dead branches in the top of the tree that want to break off and fall as you're cutting; all movements are amplified from the bottom to the top of the bole. The important thing is to not brain yourself or your crew. Passing over-hazardous trees is good sense. If they fall later and spot across the line, so be it. Deal with it once that happens.

Anyway, if you're interested in fire work, there are agencies that hire every season. Start out as a type 2 and work your way up from there.
 
For what I do, which is cut firewood and fall the occasional small tree, the half wrap is a better fit. My 757 has the full wrap handle and I've yet to find a tree that needs cut from the other side.
 
Half wrap, top of the bar does a lot of the cutting. I almost never use any bar over 36" and typical is 20". As of late mostly thinning hardwood stands of the less desirable and taking down the standing dead. There have been many instances on the steeper slopes that a full wrap would have been the better choice in terms of safety. This fall and winter I will include one saw with full wrap on the truck for that reason. Most of the saws with full wraps that I have are not saws that I want to use in the woods.

Most times, flush to the ground stumps are required to get invited back so that is important. On the slopes not so much, easement areas usually want a tall stump for the doz er, etc.. I guess that other than for the occasional safety judgment I would never really need a full wrap.
 
hm... well i use a 3/4 wrap...when you fall trees in the pnw (or anywhere i would guess) the full wrap handle is essential. anyone who thinks differently just isnt a faller and doesnt understand. oh and my main falling saw is a 044

I have fell timber in the PNW and would not consider using any thing other than a long bar/ full wrap in that area, because of terrain, timber size and technique. When in Rome....

But, I have also fell timber here for skidders and my mules. It took awhile, but eventually I learned that some of the equipment I brought here from Alaska was'nt needed and there was a better way (for this area)

On the west co. you have steep or at least broken up ground. This makes caulk boots a necessity and the easiest way to work a tree up is to walk the log while limbing, so a long bar with full wrap makes this easier too.
I moved here and started falling timber. Right away I went from an 066/36 to a 044/28.
I kept using the long bar/full wrap/walk the log technique because I was used to it and the long bar would be easier on my back...Right??
I realized that the Humboldt had to go (stump height) The full wrap was also just in the way when using a shorter bar and walking beside the log while working it up which is easier yet on my back and faster too. With a half wrap you can get a lower stump.

How is backbaring any different than bucking? You are still using the top of the bar.
There is no one size fits all for chainsaws or chainsaw bling.
 
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