Dremel Tool for Sharpening?

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I use an air powered pencil die grinder with Oregon stones. It turns very high RPMs and is the shizzle for quick touch-ups. I usually go over them before I take the saw out, cause I am mostly doing fence rows and occasionally stumpin'.
 
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I use an air powered pencil die grinder with Oregon stones. I turns very high RPMs and is the shizzle for quick touch-ups. I usually go over them before I take the saw out, cause I am mostly doing fence rows and occasionally stumpin'.

Running a dremmel at high RPM's scares me, it is very easy to get the teeth to hot and ruin a good chain.
 
3/8"
Found this on stihl's website

3/8” STIHL Rapid™ Micro™ or
STIHL Rapid™ Super

13/64” Round File
(5.2 mm)

Do you sharpen while the chain is on the bar?
 
I have the Oregon grinder. It works pretty good. I like to file my chains by hand, but occasionally will use the grinder. I have wondered about the diamond bits, may try them. I only spend a second or 2 on a tooth. They must be set to accommodate wear on the stone and keep even strokes on the grinder. They can cause uneven wear if not used properly.
 
As you may guess from my next statement, I'm a total noob but since moving out in the sticks cutting firewood has become a passion for me. Here's the noob statement: I decided to just hit it with the file only and I noticed that the top of each tooth has a 30° demarcation or etching which to me would seem to make filing by hand almost idiot proof (even for an idiot like me) at least in terms of getting the correct angle. I guess the only other issue which isn't addressed by hand filing would be the rakers. What do you hand filers do about the rakers?
 
Get a flat raker file,you will know when they need a few strokes,no matter how sharp the cutters are you have to coax it to cut.
 
I have a flat metal file and also one that came with the Husky filing guide. Do the rakers have to be filed at an angle?
 
Dremel

I have a Dremel with the sharpening attachement, but the only thing I use it for is to give a quick lick to the rakers every once in a while.
 
I use a dremel sometimes, if you'll use the diamond stones (I got them on eBay) they don't heat the cutters up like a regular stone does
 
I have a flat metal file and also one that came with the Husky filing guide. Do the rakers have to be filed at an angle?

Don't "have" to be but it makes for a smoother cutting chain if they are.
 
I use an air powered pencil die grinder with Oregon stones. It turns very high RPMs and is the shizzle for quick touch-ups. I usually go over them before I take the saw out, cause I am mostly doing fence rows and occasionally stumpin'.

And a fine job he does!
 
My fear with using a dremel is two fold. I first would think the speed of the turning stone could cause the cutter to over-heat and loose its temper.
Secondly I would think that for a normal sharpening you would remove an unnecessary amount of material from each cutter.

Like others have said, to reshape a rocked tooth or regrind an abused chain would be one thing, but for regular sharpening, im not a fan.
 
I don't understand how it saves anything, even on a rocked tooth. First off, how bad can it get that a file can't fix it? Second, if you are fixing a very bad tooth with a grinder, or dremel, it would take quite a bit of grinding. Which you would have to do very slowly to prevent overheating. So, if you can hand file, why would you ever go back to a grinder? For cutters or rakers?
 
Dremel for the depth gauge

I use a dremel to lower my depth gauges. I use the guide to get an idea if they need reducing. I put the guide away and have at it. I use the round stone shown in the picture. If I have too much time on my hand, I might use the brown rubber abrasives to polish after I use the stone (rarely do that). For me this works well.


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As you may guess from my next statement, I'm a total noob but since moving out in the sticks cutting firewood has become a passion for me. Here's the noob statement: I decided to just hit it with the file only and I noticed that the top of each tooth has a 30° demarcation or etching which to me would seem to make filing by hand almost idiot proof (even for an idiot like me) at least in terms of getting the correct angle. I guess the only other issue which isn't addressed by hand filing would be the rakers. What do you hand filers do about the rakers?

You think you're a noob? I had no idea what the hell rakers were until I did a google search.....depth gauges.:dunno:
 
I bought one of those and I am not impressed with it. It cuts really slow, slower than hand filing, and the guide it comes with sucks and only has markings on it for 30°, so I have to freehand it most of the time. My corded Dremel spins at 30K and the cordless one is only 15K, so it would cut a low slower. For me I will stick with my buddy's 511AX, it does a good job and if you know how to use it you won't take off any more metal than you need to.
 
i use a small 12v oregon dremel on my longer chains that's when it makes a diffrence but 25" plus is when i use a dremel but any shorter just hand and even then i go over it by hand for fine tunning.
 
Try Granberg Kool-Grind with your Dremel.

When cutting dirty wood out in the field, I use a 12 volt Dremel tool with a chainsaw adapter on it. If you sharpen your chains with a Dremel, try dressing your sharpening stone with Granberg G-440 Kool-Grind. To avoid overheating the cutters, I just barely touch or kiss each cutter with the rotating Dremel stone. My chains cut better when I use Kool-Grind.
 
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Anyone use a Dremel Tool for sharpening? I was wondering if there is some type of accessory which would give me the correct 30° angle. I see Bailey's sells a battery-operated sharpener but I assume an A/C powered tool would have more oomph.

those dremels have the ooomph in them thats for sure if it cuts thru metal with the small cutter wheel on it it should work on other items

i have a dremel just dont have alot of the bits for it but im getting ready to go into wood working and that is going to be used alot
 
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