Echo CS-600P Piston & Cylinder questions

[m21bmr]

I have an Echo CS-600P that has scoring on the Piston, so I was investigating the parts lists and wondered if anyone has a description of what has changed about the CS-600 / CS-590 piston & cylinders over time.

I see that the Piston & Cylinders used vary based on model & serial number ranges

The following use Piston Kit P021015190 & Cylinder A130000911
CS-600 S/N: C03920001001 - C03920999999
CS-600 S/N: C24526001001 - C24526999999
CS-600P S/N: C03603001001 - C03603999999
CS-600P S/N: C03704001001 - C03704999999

Later serial #s of CS-600P, and I believe all CS-590 use Piston Kit P021038790 & Cylinder A130002041
CS-600P S/N: C22312001001 - C22312999999
CS-600P S/N: C22413001001 - C22413999999
CS-590 S/N: 37000001 - 37999999
CS-590 S/N: C25812001001 - C25812999999
CS-590 S/N: C25913001001 - C25913999999
CS-590 S/N: C36626001001 - C36626999999
CS-590 S/N: C69015001001 - C69015999999

Anybody know what changed, and whether the Pistons are interchangeable? My saw is in the CS-600P S/N: C22312001001 - C22312999999 range, so would presumably share the piston with any CS-590.
I was considering different options for replacement. The piston in my saw has a slightly domed top.

I saw a couple of aftermarket pistons (which from pictures look to be flat topped) from HLSupply and Lil-Red Barn. I was also interested in potential used OEM. If I was able to acquire a used OEM would only the 590 and later 600P be appropriate for my application? I may end up just getting a new OEM kit, but had hoped to keep total investment down on the saw.

It looks like an OEM Piston kit P021038790 can be ordered online for around $68 delivered, where the HLSupply aftermarket CS-600 piston is $25 delivered. So, it may just be worth it to go ahead and pony up the $43 extra to insure compatibility. Anyone with experience with swapping pistons between the two parts series?

I think the aluminum transfer from the cylinder cleaned up fine using the Mastermind "without acid" method.

 

[fordf150]

$60 shipped on OEM

 

[Red97]

The aftermarket piston are domed. Ones I have seen are made by golf. Look like a good quality part but have never put one in a saw.

590/600 share the same 1 ring piston. I haven't run into any problems swapping them around.

 

[fordf150]

590/600 share the same 1 ring piston. I haven't run into any problems swapping them around.

they are different part numbers but best i can tell are the exact same measurements. different finish on the piston if that matters

 

[grack]

The aftermarket piston are domed. Ones I have seen are made by golf. Look like a good quality part but have never put one in a saw.

590/600 share the same 1 ring piston. I haven't run into any problems swapping them around.

When i ported mine
I put a golf 600 piston in my 590 i
Had bent a oem circlip and had two 600 pistons.
About 5 gallons through it no problems
The two golfs i have look excellent
And come with a good quality ring
Comps in the 150s without base gasket.
They were 9.00 on sale

 

[m21bmr]

Thanks for the info so far. It is good to know that the aftermarket Golf is domed.

Grack, did you get your Golf from HL Supply? I would certainly try one if I found it available for $9.

 

[grack]

Thanks for the info so far. It is good to know that the aftermarket Golf is domed.

Grack, did you get your Golf from HL Supply? I would certainly try one if I found it available for $9.

Yes last Christmas special
Haven't had to price them lately.
I rebuilt a 920 jonsereds many year's ago with a golf
Many hours on that saw no problems with the piston.

 

[ncfarmboy]

Golf pistons area lot heavier than OEM in my experience.
Shep

 

[Cliff R]

I own an early CS-600P and later CS-590. The IPL shows the early 600P as having different P/C part numbers. The later 600's as you noted share the same P/C. NOT a good idea to mix-match different part numbers as there will often minor differences not visible inspecting them, and the weight could also be different. I do know that my 600P is a little stronger in the cut than the CS-590, so most likely a little less emissions friendly but slightly more power, and it free revs higher so probably doesn't use a limited coil or doesn't have a spark-retard feature like many later model Echo saws do.

Anyhow, scoring on a piston in many cases isn't really a big deal provided you can get the ring off w/o breaking it, and clean up the ring groove so the ring moves freely in it when placed back in service.

The piston skirts simply need to be mostly intact so the piston doesn't "rock" too much in the bores. Scratching and scoring lines down the skirt will not effect operation provided that there is still a decent amount of material still present that is still at the stock dimensions to keep the piston stable in the bore.

Completely different deal for the piston bore. If it is tore up with deep scratches, scoring, that extend very far up/down where the ring(s) travel it's NOT going to provide a good sealing surface for the ring(s) and you will have low compression, down on power, etc once the saw is placed back in service.

You would simply be amazed at the saws I've cleaned up scored pistons on over the years and not bought a single part, placed them back in service, and they live just fine for years afterwards. One of my closed port 55's was like that, at a glance the piston and bore were JUNK, piston ringe seized in the ring groove, considerable material smeared over it, etc. The bore cleaned up fine as they often do and I was able to remove the ring and clean up the piston. Is still had quite a few scratches and some deep lines that extended the full length of the skirts, but there was still enough good material unaffected that it measured at the correct diameter and good fit in the bore. It's got about a zillion hours on it since then, and has been one of my "go to" saws for many years.

My advice on parts replacement, ALWAYS use OEM even if you have to break your piggy bank and crawl around on the floor to pick up enough change for the additional cost over aftermarket!.......Cliff