ECHO CS 352 is a dog right this minute

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GeeVee

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I went to use it, thinking sitting in the trailer for a year or so, would teach it a lesson after the last time I wanted to use it, it ran weak, never really developed a whole of of RPM/power.

I do remember throwing the spark arrestor out a while ago.....

But no, wants to be petulant and not run WOT. Idles fine, starts right up, has good compression according to the feel of the rope pull, and its really a low hours saw. I just want to be able to buck limbs with it, and its rear handle is better for my DIL to use, all 105 pounds of herself, when she needs some saw therapy like me.

I suspect the stock carby WT 992 is not a very user adjustable carby, I could be wrong.

Just asking you colleagues if I ought be sourcing a compatible Carby that is well adjustable, or what I should dip into first?

FYI- I am not qualified to port it, or even muff mod it, but can take the muff off and make sure I dont have a crudded up port, and can eyeball the piston and side of cylinder.

I use good mix, keep the air filter clean, and it really hasn't seen much hours, though it is a couple years old. I have a MS 440, CS 590, cs 340 TH,
 
Carry it to a saw shop and have them adjust the carb or check the fuel system.
I would tell you to just pull the limiter caps an adjust the carb but I think a saw shop would be best right now. They can check if there is a restriction in the fuel system which could be a problem also.
 
Carry it to a saw shop and have them adjust the carb or check the fuel system.
I would tell you to just pull the limiter caps an adjust the carb but I think a saw shop would be best right now. They can check if there is a restriction in the fuel system which could be a problem also.
Hey AT, thanks, but, there aint no such thing here. My local OPE dealer is a good guy and he can prolly tune it, but with spring around the corner, he's backed up with mower repairs, year round actually because of where I live. No logging for 150 miles, no real OPE shops, just John Deere who couldn't give a crap about service, and Big Box stores who dont service, and only care about sellingn you anohter throwaway.
 
A Echo cs352 NEEDS a muff mod, big gains in power. Steve
Ok Steve, now I gotta ask, how do I do THAT? Any help would be appreciated. Like, removing the limiter caps Too? I'm not an idiot, but most of the time I prefer Stock/OEM for longevity and such- My days of hopping up a Sportster (Sportsturd) or a 2-stroke YZ 250 or Honda Odysee 350 are behind me. I can prolly figure out turning a jet and getting to idle and ru full song on a saw by ear.

The saw has never seen any work to it other than cleaning the air filter and cleaning the plug, so its not like a hammer mechainc has built it.

I did kind of have a laugh over it, I checked the specs, and its 34 cc, 38x30 bore and stroke and my favorite Top Handle CS 340 is 33.4 cc at 39x28. I have a 16 inch bar on the 352 and a 14 on the TH. The little one rips, but the TH is not as useful for bucking or firewooding small stuff unless you want to one hand and not bend over. My diminutive DIL needs to put the spikes into it and leverage it through the cut.

Speaking of which, are there any metal bucking spikes that would fit? I *think* it only has some lame plastic teeth. I gott go check.

Dang, Steve, now you got me thinking I need to send this off to a pro who will port and polish, bump up the timing, and muff mod it for my favorite DIL. The other DIL is a nice girl too, but she's even tiny-er, and wont go near a saw....
 
My 352 came with the carb adjusted to the richest allowed by the limiters. It was still lean but ran ok. I'd make sure it's set as rich as it will go on the high screw and then adjust the low screw for best idle.

I bought a second used muffer (in case I ever bring it back to the dealer) and removed the cat. Then removed the limiters, trimmed off the tabs and put them back in. Makes them look stock and they help the screwdriver find the slot.

It ran a little better but it was not a huge difference. It's 34cc. It's never going to make big power. It is however light and easy to start which makes it a good brush cutting saw.
 
Sounds like it just needs to be tuned. Got any friends that could help you out? Perhaps watch a few YouTube videos so you get a decent understanding and it should be able to get you close enough. 352 has a cat muffler I think? If so mod it first then tune.
 
Ok Steve, now I gotta ask, how do I do THAT? Any help would be appreciated. Like, removing the limiter caps Too? I'm not an idiot, but most of the time I prefer Stock/OEM for longevity and such- My days of hopping up a Sportster (Sportsturd) or a 2-stroke YZ 250 or Honda Odysee 350 are behind me. I can prolly figure out turning a jet and getting to idle and ru full song on a saw by ear.

The saw has never seen any work to it other than cleaning the air filter and cleaning the plug, so its not like a hammer mechainc has built it.

I did kind of have a laugh over it, I checked the specs, and its 34 cc, 38x30 bore and stroke and my favorite Top Handle CS 340 is 33.4 cc at 39x28. I have a 16 inch bar on the 352 and a 14 on the TH. The little one rips, but the TH is not as useful for bucking or firewooding small stuff unless you want to one hand and not bend over. My diminutive DIL needs to put the spikes into it and leverage it through the cut.

Speaking of which, are there any metal bucking spikes that would fit? I *think* it only has some lame plastic teeth. I gott go check.

Dang, Steve, now you got me thinking I need to send this off to a pro who will port and polish, bump up the timing, and muff mod it for my favorite DIL. The other DIL is a nice girl too, but she's even tiny-er, and wont go near a saw....
I was able to put buying spikes for echo 2511 on my echo 3510, not sure if they would go on a 352 ( 3510's dad)
 
I have seen a lot of bugger jobs on YouTube removing limiter caps but the right way is to take the carb off. On the cs 352 the carb where the limiter caps are has a slot that has to be lined up before the limiter caps can come out. One thing you may have missed is checking the fuel filter in the tank, if they setup they will get hard and restrict fuel flow and that could be your problem
 
You can use a drywall screw to pull the H limiter on the carb and turn it out till it 4 strokes out of the cut and cleans up in the wood.
If you use the drywall screw make sure you line up the tab that's on the limiter cap with the slot in the cover that's over the adjusting screws otherwise you will pull the cover off and will have to pull the carb to put it back in or monkey around to get everything back in. You want to grind the tabs off the limiter caps and put them back on the screws so vibration doesn't affect settings when the saw runs.
Here is a video where a fellow pulled the cover off using the drywall screws not a cs 352 but it is the same as the cs 352.

 
What is offensive about ***? Outdoor Power Equipment Dealer, I have no idea why it would be censored to three asterisks?
Its another similar site OPEforum. There was a time when a bunch of guys left here and had bad attitudes and went there, before that they would put it in their signatures and ever post they made, hence the ***.
 
Its another similar site OPEforum. There was a time when a bunch of guys left here and had bad attitudes and went there, before that they would put it in their signatures and ever post they made, hence the ***.
Of course, I'm not surprised, seen it on a few forums. Somebody gets butthurt- thinks they are so popular they are going to drag traffic and RUIN this place, just run them into the ground..... That will show them.

Good riddence.....
 

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