My issues with most tool-less chain adjusters:
- more complex: more parts to break, harder to clean, etc.;
- harder to flip the bar for maintenance/even wear with some models that attach to the bar;
- I can't adjust tension the chain as accurately as I can with a screwdriver;
- thumb wheel on the STIHL models are especially hard for me to turn when they have oil/sawdust on them. I can't turn these while wearing gloves. Some newer versions have larger, outside wheels that I can grasp and turn. Some claim to 'auto adjust' ? Must have some type of spring in them?
I guess that it is like an automatic transmission in cars. Some people will not buy a car without an automatic transmission, and some people claim they get better control with a manual.
Philbert
You sir are exactly correct on every point.
I can't understand how the knob is considered an improvement.
Even the Side Tension screw and plastic clutch covers do not improve a saw IF you came up in the days when REAL chainsaws were built.
My very old Sthil 024 has a metal clutch cover and the tension screw in front of the saw. It's NEVER FAILED. The old Sthil 029 has a decent side adjustment and has been replaced once. Compare the two saws. The newer saw aint built as strong and the farm boss isn't professional. My Sthil 026 has plastic clutch cover and side tension but professionally it's not as well built as the old 024. Then there are the Echoes. Plastic covers side tension. IF a man isn't careful it's possible to break those side covers BECAUSE the tension is attached to the cover and must be properly lined up when servicing the bar and chain. I've had Years of experience so it's a snap but I've seen guys crack clutch covers. I find the adjustment that's not built onto the clutch cover more sturdy.
Then one fine day I purchased an electric Worx pole saw and the bigger 14 or maybe 15 amp rated Electric Worx.
Because we had grid power I choose Electric chainsaws to use when possible while building the Pole Barn.
Both of those saws have the Knob to tighten the chain.
There is a plate attached to the bar (both saws) and there is a tiny screw holding that plate to the bar. Flipping the bar becomes a hassel. I'm always concerned about the possibility of loosing that screw. So far so good but I don't like the situation.
The bar plate also limits the bar slot movement there effecting chain adjustment potential.
The side plate has to be attached with caution more cautiously than any other saws I posess.
I'd not say the saws are trash but id say they are definitely not professional equipment. They were cheap, somewhere in the neighborhood of 100 bucks. Both DO automatically oil the chain. They aren't the Steak but they aren't the napkin either. They are ok. Serve a purpose. I'm not angry. Wallyworld sells something around a 9 amp Worx Electric Chainsaw that looks like the Worx pole saw BUT it DOES NOT automatically oil the chain. Around 50 bucks. If you read the description it states it has an oiler but when I saw it last no mention that its a MANUEL thumb pump oiler. The kind I'm not fond of. Because the pole saw oils automatically I paid almost double. It served the purpose used in a limited fashion.
The knob chain adjustment on both of my Worx actually work BUT look to be dangerous because there is ONLY ONE bar bolt supporting the bar. It's a scary thought to imagine how he bar flipping up during operation.
I saw an older Electric Chainsaw with two bar nuts and liked that better. I'm thinking it was a Black and Decker. 12 amp saw.
I've carried a Scrench for about 50 years. Adjusting a chain takes me about a minute. I check my chain with every oil and gas fill up.
But I can imagine a lot of homer owner types may find the Knob more to their liking.
My opinion is I want to keep both of my Nuts. I want to feel safe.
I don't mind two bar nuts and using a scrench.
If I were buying a gas powered chainsaw, 60cc or up, or small 30cc up, I'd not purchase a new saw of any brand without Two bar nuts. Also I'm reluctant to buy flip top Gas and Oil caps.
I came up in the day when we snugged caps with the Scrench.
To prove my point, once I was running an 029 Sthil bucking a big oak tree. I'd just filled the saw oil and gas tanks. After about 3 minutes the bar announced it needed oil (you learn to listen and catch that before the chain gets hot). Thinking that's impossible I reluctantly stopped the saw to check oil. Danged if that oil cap hadn't loosened and was hanging.
Because the cap slot was wearing I'd decided hand tight would get me by. Boy was I wrong.
Speaking of caps. This new Echo 490 gas cap looks cheap and brittle. I hand tighten because I'm afraid it'll break using a scrench. Danged if that gas cap don't tighten its self. There is a raised rail molded on the cap with a slot. The scrench fits it but any day now I'm expecting to break the gas cap. I saw a guy break one. It flung a big chip right off.
The bottom line is: God made Plumbs and Apples. Eat Plumbs if you like but no need to throw them at the Guys eating apples or whatever.
Blessings.
