Engine Temperature?

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Ron660

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What is the normal operating temperature of a chainsaw engine? Will the temperature be the same in a larger saw, like my 660, as in a small saw?
 
I don't know about chainsaws, but air cooled 2 stroke snowmobiles and aircraft usually run about 430F cylinder head temps (max) and 1080 exhaust gas temps (max)
 
Thanks AKDoug. I'm curious because 2-cycle oils have different viscosity results and flash points. I was wondering in the higher flash point oils, like Motul 800 or Belray H1R, would a chainsaw's temperature be high enough to properly burn/use it without having any residual in the exhaust or excess carbon buildup. I know those oils were designed for racing motors, like motocross, but not sure if engine temperature plays a role in choosing a 2-cycle oil.
 
Thanks AKDoug. I'm curious because 2-cycle oils have different viscosity results and flash points. I was wondering in the higher flash point oils, like Motul 800 or Belray H1R, would a chainsaw's temperature be high enough to properly burn/use it without having any residual in the exhaust. I know those oils were designed for racing motors, like motocross, but not sure if engine temperature plays a role in chosing a 2-cycle oil.

I keep coming back to this thread, now more so to bump it up. Not trying to change the subject, but felt it fit.

I just picked up a good used 395xp. Pulled muff. It had a new piston in it. I been running 50:1 for quite some time now. Using the husky syn, gray bottle stuff. I run 6 or 8 tanks thru it the other day, w/hot starts each time.

After talking to a fella a while back, he was telling me he runs everything 32:1......never had a problem. I told him I've never had a problem w/my ratio either.....Just got me to thinkin, running my saw's that hard, why not drop it down, to 40:1....or no more then 45:1.......

Don't you think it would have to lube better, meaning it should run a bit cooler? Will I lose any noticeable power? Will it gum thing's up? This time of yr. I'm not sure it's a big deal, but I cut all summer also.

I mix 5 gal. at a time, and going 40:1 will cost me a gal. of fuel.....Thinking, a small price to pay, keeping them in the wood longer.......Any input from you saw mechanic's?..........I would appreciate it.

P.S. I have no problem going thru fuel before it gets stale. ;)
 
Why not just mix the correct ratio of oil to 5 gals?
 
Why not just mix the correct ratio of oil to 5 gals?

Truth is, I don't want to screw around measuring it out each time.

12.8 oz. bottle for 5 gal. mix (50:1).......the same bottle will do (40:1) thus only providing 4 gal. of mix......

going this way takes the guess work out of it. + I really dont want to use multiple bottles. After the 12.8, you can only buy it by the gal. if you can find it. I've never seen it here locally....
 
You may want to check in the milling section. Those guys are always tracking saw temps and trying to figure out how to keep a saw cool during long milling sesions
 
I used an infared thermometer to check the temps on my 359 one time. Right after cutting through an 18" diameter pine log, the top of the cylinder was around 300 deg F. In about 5 seconds, it dropped to 250 or so. I was very surprised because it was a hot day 85 deg or better and very humid. But keep in mind I was only able to measure the outside temp of the cylinder, and it wasn't during the cut while the saw was wide open lugging away.
 
There was a Australian member that milled alot and had an electronic probe rigged up to a saw. Showed how it heated up after shutting off from heat sink. Really informative. I cant remember his handle though. Ill look. :)
 
I used an infared thermometer to check the temps on my 359 one time. Right after cutting through an 18" diameter pine log, the top of the cylinder was around 300 deg F. In about 5 seconds, it dropped to 250 or so. I was very surprised because it was a hot day 85 deg or better and very humid. But keep in mind I was only able to measure the outside temp of the cylinder, and it wasn't during the cut while the saw was wide open lugging away.
Humidity would help to cool the saw, unlike a human that relies on perspiration.

There was a Australian member that milled alot and had an electronic probe rigged up to a saw. Showed how it heated up after shutting off from heat sink. Really informative. I cant remember his handle though. Ill look. :)
That would make sense - as soon as the blower stops the outer surfaces will heat up. It would be neat to have a simple non-electronic thermometer monitoring cylinder temperature. Maybe something that screwed into the decomp fitting.
 

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