Dealing With CAT (KAT) Mufflers?

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SteveSr

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I have a small cheap Poulan with a CAT muffler. It is crimp sealed so not easy to open and remove the CAT. So what will happen if I richen the mixture enough lower the cylinder temperature for improve longevity? Will the excess fuel now make the CAT run even hotter? Possibly negating the effect of enriching the mixture in the first place?
 
What is the best way to open one of these up? Heat the seam with a propane torch and pry it open? I don't have access to a welder to put it back together again.
I use a regular oxy/acc torch with a tiny tip and pry open 3 sides with a screwdriver. Then, reassemble using a pair of plyers to re-crimp Using a little less heat. No welding needed.
a MAP torch should work with the right tip.
 
Some little poulans before they went to the 1 piece mufflers that you have to cut open. They came in a 2 piece muffler.

Depending on model you might be able to find the older muffler and save yourself some work.


View attachment 1100556
Yes, I am familiar with the muffler in the photo. Unfortunately, the one that I would need is for a 25cc leaf blower. This basic design was likely used for many other brands. I don't know when they started using CAT mufflers or where to begin to look for non-CAT versions.
 
Yes, I am familiar with the muffler in the photo. Unfortunately, the one that I would need is for a 25cc leaf blower. This basic design was likely used for many other brands. I don't know when they started using CAT mufflers or where to begin to look for non-CAT versions.
Which model leaf blower?

Early square models or the normal round later models?

If blocked up I would just try and see if I could make a exit that could bypass it or go right through it as others do. Not something I would put alot of time in myself. GL

pblower.jpg
 
Which model leaf blower?

Early square models or the normal round later models?

If blocked up I would just try and see if I could make a exit that could bypass it or go right through it as others do. Not something I would put alot of time in myself. GL

View attachment 1100774
That looks like it but mine is yellow with a model number of BVM200VS.

Yea, I was hoping to fix the fuel system with a carb kit and move on. Then I found the loose cylinder problem and I can't get the problematic bolt out to put loctite on it without removing the muffler. Muffler bolt interference... Now I need longer Torx bits...
 
Here is a photo of the existing muffler. Do any of you recognize if there is a non-CAT version of this muffler? Note that it is asymmetrical with little clearance on the right side.

20230730_191352.jpg
 
Take a screw driver and peal the crimp open, pop it apart and gut it then use a channel lock to crimp it back together. If it's not crimped, get in there and bust out the cat. It breaks apart pretty easy. Just have to make sure you have the muffler cleaned out very well afterwards.
 
Take a screw driver and peal the crimp open, pop it apart and gut it then use a channel lock to crimp it back together. If it's not crimped, get in there and bust out the cat. It breaks apart pretty easy. Just have to make sure you have the muffler cleaned out very well afterwards.
I tried prying with a screwdriver but the crimp didn't budge. The screwdriver slipped off before the crimp budged. May need to sharpen an old screwdriver and get out the torch.
 
I have a real heavy flat head I use, it's a no name job. I put the one side of the crimp in the vice then get the other end started with the screw driver. I have a real small channel lock I use to keep prying it up from the first section if I have the room to grab it. If not I just keep going with the screw driver. It can be a Rea pain to get the first part lifted up. I think they use king Kong to crimp some of these mufflers lol.
 
I have a real heavy flat head I use, it's a no name job. I put the one side of the crimp in the vice then get the other end started with the screw driver. I have a real small channel lock I use to keep prying it up from the first section if I have the room to grab it. If not I just keep going with the screw driver. It can be a Rea pain to get the first part lifted up. I think they use king Kong to crimp some of these mufflers lol.
Yes, these are really crimped solid. Once I get my long Torx bits and remove the muffler I may evaluate breaking the cat out from the back side. Only about a 5/16" hole on the front.
 
Well, I found the root cause of the cylinder bolts loosening. The bolts were just a smidge too long and bottomed in the crankcase before cylinder was fully tightened down. The cheap o-ring gasket held for a while before it started leaking and the bolt backed out. Game Over.

It is going back together with Dirko.
 
I finally got my long Torx driver set and removed the muffler. It appears that the CAT is not the usual ceramic honeycomb but what looks like VERY coarse steel wool covered with the catalyst. Here is a photo:

20230816_200224.jpg

Based on the fact that it is so coarse and doesn't look to be very restrictive I am contemplating leaving it as-is rather than wrestle with disassembling the muffler.

Your thoughts?
 
Problem with the catalytic substrate is, it raises the exhaust temperature, sometimes so much, it will cause the outer shroud to melt which is what happens on the Echo CS top handle saws. There are numerous customer complaints on the net about that. Removal of the cat on them eliminates the issue. Even complaints on the Echo manufacturers website. Just like you car with a catalytic converter. That to increases the exhaust temperature and really increases it if your fuel trim is wonky. Why car manufacturers caution about parking over dry grass. The cat will set it in fire. Same applies to a saw with a catalytic converter.

Instead of fiddling with the muffler on my Echo CS, I bought an aftermarket muffler (Forrester) but I found out later that Echo also offers a non cat muffler in the website as a replacement, or at least did a year ago.. 23 bucks was an easy solution and I tossed the cat one in the scrap metal bin.

The heat level the cat raises the exhaust temp to, entirely depends on the fuel to air ratio, so if you set the saw to run rich, the cat will raise the temp of the exhaust more. One reason why there are limiter caps in new saws.

With Echo, only the 'homeowner' saws have cat's. The 'professional' saws don't, or at leas they didn't. That may have changed. I know my CS590 don't as I have removed and modified it for easier breathing.
 
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