Dealing With CAT (KAT) Mufflers?

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Problem with the catalytic substrate is, it raises the exhaust temperature, sometimes so much, it will cause the outer shroud to melt which is what happens on the Echo CS top handle saws. There are numerous customer complaints on the net about that. Removal of the cat on them eliminates the issue. Even complaints on the Echo manufacturers website. Just like you car with a catalytic converter. That to increases the exhaust temperature and really increases it if your fuel trim is wonky. Why car manufacturers caution about parking over dry grass. The cat will set it in fire. Same applies to a saw with a catalytic converter.

Instead of fiddling with the muffler on my Echo CS, I bought an aftermarket muffler (Forrester) but I found out later that Echo also offers a non cat muffler in the website as a replacement, or at least did a year ago.. 23 bucks was an easy solution and I tossed the cat one in the scrap metal bin.

The heat level the cat raises the exhaust temp to, entirely depends on the fuel to air ratio, so if you set the saw to run rich, the cat will raise the temp of the exhaust more. One reason why there are limiter caps in new saws.

With Echo, only the 'homeowner' saws have cat's. The 'professional' saws don't, or at leas they didn't. That may have changed. I know my CS590 don't as I have removed and modified it for easier breathing.
Unfortunately, I don't believe that there is a non-CAT muffler option for this engine. At least I haven't been able to find it.

The muffler appears to have been designed with a large "runner" to equalize flow to the CAT. The CAT itself is located below the cylinder and behind a heat shield to try to keep heat from getting back to the cylinder. This seems to be better designed than some other CAT mufflers that I have see pictures of on this site.
 
It's not coarse steel wool, it's stainless steel 'wool' I think I'd take a pair of long needle nose pliers and pull it out myself.
Nice thought. Looks in the photo are deceiving. Needle nose pliers won't reach. I tried hooking it with a wire but that mesh is pretty stout. It is also a bigger piece behind a smaller "window" which also complicates trying to pull it through.

Far as opening up any muf with a crimped edge, I'd grind off the crimped part, separate the halves and then just weld it back together with a MIG welder.
I don't have or have access to a MIG welder.
 
It's not coarse steel wool, it's stainless steel 'wool' I think I'd take a pair of long needle nose pliers and pull it out myself.

Far as opening up any muf with a crimped edge, I'd grind off the crimped part, separate the halves and then just weld it back together with a MIG welder.
Done a bunch like that.
 
Done a few with brazing the seam, never had a problem with warping. The heat is applied to the rod first, and you keep the flame just close enough to the work to match temperatures. The discoloration you see on the muffler is actually the result of acid, you have to dip the surfaces to be joined on this particular muffler to remove the coating. Be sure to do this outside, you get nasty fumes off of it.
 
Here is an update... I used an old screwdriver and a propane torch to open up the muffler. It was time consuming but not overly difficult. It would have been a much better project on a winter day instead of one with a heat index of 104! 🥵

Here are the photos of the innards...

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Here are the modifications:

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I opened the outlet hole behind the spark screen significantly to 3/8". I didn't want to mess with the size/shape of the final outlet as I didn't want to take a chance of melting the plastic muffler guard.

Now... do any of you have any thoughts on how to tune a non-strato 2-stroke that is always under constant/heavy/working load at WOT as is this blower? I can set the "H" to 4-stroke but once you are past that (lean) it is hard to tell where you are at.
 
Do you have a tachometer and the rpm that is given from Poulan? Ok without the CAT it may turn higher now. Use the basic setting as baseline. I would have a look for the highest possible rpm under full throttle and would richen the carburetor from there a 1/4 turn. Carburetor should be a Walbro WT on it.
 
Do you have a tachometer and the rpm that is given from Poulan?
All that I could find based on the model number (BVM200VS) is a somewhat correct IPL and an Owners Manual. No service manual.

Ok without the CAT it may turn higher now. Use the basic setting as baseline.
No baseline settings available.

I would have a look for the highest possible rpm under full throttle and would richen the carburetor from there a 1/4 turn.
My thoughts as well. Only question is how much RPM drop is sufficient protection at WOT. Same question at idle setting "L" screw.

Carburetor should be a Walbro WT on it.
Carb is a Walbro WT-875 which isn't listed on either IPL so must have been a running production change. Similar issues with gasket kit which included some wrong gaskets.
 
I couldn`t find information either about rpm`s. I would also tune the L mixture searching the drop off point and richen it up that it drops 500 rpms. (Same procedure that STIHL uses on their machines, should work for Poulan too.) I think you should be save if you richen the carb that the rpm`s drop around 500-600rpm`s. You don`t want to have it to rich because of the power output and maybe carbon build up inside.
 
I couldn`t find information either about rpm`s. I would also tune the L mixture searching the drop off point and richen it up that it drops 500 rpms. (Same procedure that STIHL uses on their machines, should work for Poulan too.) I think you should be save if you richen the carb that the rpm`s drop around 500-600rpm`s. You don`t want to have it to rich because of the power output and maybe carbon build up inside.
Thanks, I'll give it a try.
 
Thanks, I'll give it a try.
I set the L for the 500 RPM drop and that seemed to work. Decent throttle response.

I then started tuning WOT (full load). If I set it rich of the max power (RPM) point it 4-stroked noticeably. I then took it up to max RPM and noticed that it had a pretty wide range of screw position at the max RPM speed. So I decided to leave it at the "rich" side of the max RPM "flat". I ran it long enough at WOT to blow off my driveway with no ill effect. When it cooled off I checked the plug and didn't notice anything alarming.

I think I'll leave it for now but will eventually re-tune it when the weather eventually gets below our recent 95-100+ degree heat.
 
Did removing the cat material help enough that no increase in muffler outlet is necessary ?
Muffler is opened internally (no KAT) and larger screen exit hole (see photos). I left the main exit alone as I don't want to risk melting the plastic engine/muffler cover.
 

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