Skier44
ArboristSite Lurker
Water Loop for D.H.W. 2B or not 2B???
I would put it as near to the top of the inside of the firebox as possible. I would go with the 24" single loop that they make. Here are some of my concerns. I need to have a way to dump the extra heated anti-freeze after the waterheater is to temp. I would consider using a fancoil type setup and let it blow off into the basement. I have a 35 gallon indirect water heater that I picked up on CL. I've tested it at pressures up to 150 psi, it's a champ. I'll use this as a pre-heater or tempering tank placed before the water heater. I'll need to circulate between the two tanks. The other heat circuit going thru the stove will be of a food safe anti-freeze and back into the exchanger of the tempering tank. Both circuits will require expansion tanks, pumps and I havn't decided on a controlling system as of yet. I'd like to put one of my old PCs to use by connecting thermistors and be able to control flow rates in the pumps. Because dreaming doesn't get it done... I'll probably go with aquastats or something like that. I really believe this has to be a dynamic setup to adapt to the amount of heat being produced in the Englander. Smoldering would require slow pump speeds and a blasting fire, the opposite. Heating a liquid is a whole other game and if not played correctly, could end in a violent explosion. For me, I have to see it all on paper before I start drilling... I want to eventually use a few flatplate solar collectors for heating the tempering tank in the summer. This can get really, really complicated but I know there is a way through the chaos...
Another point I did not reveal: I know that many have stated their cord usage around 7 to 10 and that mine being at 4-5, seems very low... I built my house using 2x6 walls with the cavities filled with closed cell foam from Corbond. The house is amazingly air tight but also very well insulated. I have my windows covered with dual core shades and this makes a huge difference...
Back to the Hilkoil thing... If anybody else out there has any experience using these in the same application, I would like to read about it.
Thanks...
Skier, If and when you put that hilcoil where would you mount it? above or below the smoke shelf? been thinking bout putting one on.. have one of these stoves for five years and love it heat a big rancher with it 7 cords a year
I would put it as near to the top of the inside of the firebox as possible. I would go with the 24" single loop that they make. Here are some of my concerns. I need to have a way to dump the extra heated anti-freeze after the waterheater is to temp. I would consider using a fancoil type setup and let it blow off into the basement. I have a 35 gallon indirect water heater that I picked up on CL. I've tested it at pressures up to 150 psi, it's a champ. I'll use this as a pre-heater or tempering tank placed before the water heater. I'll need to circulate between the two tanks. The other heat circuit going thru the stove will be of a food safe anti-freeze and back into the exchanger of the tempering tank. Both circuits will require expansion tanks, pumps and I havn't decided on a controlling system as of yet. I'd like to put one of my old PCs to use by connecting thermistors and be able to control flow rates in the pumps. Because dreaming doesn't get it done... I'll probably go with aquastats or something like that. I really believe this has to be a dynamic setup to adapt to the amount of heat being produced in the Englander. Smoldering would require slow pump speeds and a blasting fire, the opposite. Heating a liquid is a whole other game and if not played correctly, could end in a violent explosion. For me, I have to see it all on paper before I start drilling... I want to eventually use a few flatplate solar collectors for heating the tempering tank in the summer. This can get really, really complicated but I know there is a way through the chaos...
Another point I did not reveal: I know that many have stated their cord usage around 7 to 10 and that mine being at 4-5, seems very low... I built my house using 2x6 walls with the cavities filled with closed cell foam from Corbond. The house is amazingly air tight but also very well insulated. I have my windows covered with dual core shades and this makes a huge difference...
Back to the Hilkoil thing... If anybody else out there has any experience using these in the same application, I would like to read about it.
Thanks...