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huskycandoit

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Hey Guys,
I recently purchased and 93' F350 with 460 5 spd. The passenger side manifold if missing 3 bolt do to the header is rusted and rusted the bolts out. So can you tap deeper holes into the header or do you need a new header.

Thanks Dan
 
Do you mean where the header bolts to your downpipe? Or do you mean the header bolting to the head? If the head bolts are stripped, you can bottom tap them, or drill and tap to the next largest size. If its the downpipe clamp. Same thing. Or drill though and run bolts through it, and put nuts and washers on to clamp it together. The header itself shouldn't have any tapped holes at all, except some had the collector flange tapped to attach the exhaust tubing to it.
 
I am not sure if my phases are correct, but I am talking about where the exhaust manifold mounts to the engine. I have pictures that I will put on. They have little yellow circles where the problem is.

Thanks Dan
 
I hate to tell you this but unless you know a really good welder the head is junk. I have fixed them when they were like this before by pulling the head and having the area filled with weld and machined back to spec. The old 460s were notorious for having the side of the hole snap off. I'll have to look around in my barn to see if I still have to old cutaway I made in vo-tech to see if it has enough meat that it can be drilled and tapped deeper.
 
Ya my mechanic said the heads junk too... He told me to live with the noise or get new heads...

Thanks Dan
 
Tough call how noisy is it? If its not too bad and you want a cheep fix, IF you can tell where it is leaking from ( this is not correct but might work to cut the noise) run a bead of extreme high temp rtv across the leaking area. use a wire brush if you can get to it to remove loose rust and help the rtv to adhere better. Not correct but cheaper than having the head welded or replaced. Worth a shot before making an expensive repair. Good luck with this one.
 
RTV won't hold. Your talking about having it exposed to high temp exhaust gasses, not just steel. Probably somewhere around 1600* temps right out of the exhaust port under the right conditions.
 
If your repair is going to be expensive, look for a used engine and just replace it. Then, you can put in something just a little smaller, that will get more than 5 or 6 miles/gallon. One of my old Fords had a 460 and it was the worst gashog I have ever owned. I would never own another 460-powered truck, especially with the gas prices now.
Jeff
 
If your repair is going to be expensive, look for a used engine and just replace it. Then, you can put in something just a little smaller, that will get more than 5 or 6 miles/gallon. One of my old Fords had a 460 and it was the worst gashog I have ever owned. I would never own another 460-powered truck, especially with the gas prices now.
Jeff

Yeah, I have a F-250 with the 460 and pulling the stump grinder (about 6,000 lbs with trailer and tools, gas) I get 7.5 MPG. It's eating my lunch in gas money.
 
RTV won't hold. Your talking about having it exposed to high temp exhaust gasses, not just steel. Probably somewhere around 1600* temps right out of the exhaust port under the right conditions.

Guess you know best! :angry: guess they quite making high temp rtv. If he is willing to live with the noise. He might not replace a head, motor, or want the expense of having his head repaired. So I suggested the cheapest solution. Pack the area with a high temp sealant or exhaust repair filler, If the leak was not to bad and depending on where all it was leaking. Never said it would fix the problem but might help to cut the noise. The 5 bucks and 15 minuets spent trying to make it better are better then doing nothing. Oh well good luck.
 
:taped: Well woodchuck, Safety is kind of a big deal to me. Extreme High Temp RTV is good to about 800*, and I've seen the stuff ignite much over that. Tell him what you want, but somebody has to be the voice of reason. Deal with the noise? Try to fix it and risk burning up the truck? Which would I choose... Well I guess that depends on how good your insurance is! :laugh:
 
Guess that Permatex thinks its Safe to use also? I would not recommend ANYTHING that is unsafe or might damage his truck.




Permatex® Ultra Copper® Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker
OEM specified. Highest operating temperatures for 4-cylinder, turbocharged or high-performance engines. The most advanced, high temp RTV silicone gasket available. Sensor-safe, low odor, noncorrosive. Superior adhesion. Three times more oil resistant than conventional silicones; eight times more flexible than cut gaskets. Temperature range -75°F to 700°F (-59°C to 371°C) intermittent; resists auto and shop fluids and vibration.

Suggested Applications: Exhaust manifolds/ headers, valve covers, oil pans, timing covers, water pumps, thermostat housing

Look I respect your opinion that it might not work. When my statement is called completely wrong as you did I feel the need to defend my position. I feel that it will work and I have seen leaks such as this repaired. Rather than continue this back and forth I will agree to disagree.
 
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Now now boys.... lol

Anyways my dad talked to his mechanic buddy and he said he will do it for about 400-500$ So woohoo cheap fix for new heads!

Dan
 

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