Falling pics 11/25/09

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I posted this video to question why those who insist on routine bore cuts don't use this method to eliminate the trigger. Maybe a bore cutter will pipe up and say a trigger release would have given the stem more initial velocity thus lessening the chance of hanging.

Maybe this tree hung-up due to the angle cut creating a longer hinge on the left side which slowed the fall. Or intentionally hung for the purpose of making the video.

I'm sure with practice one could become proficient at this "split level" falling but why? And how could it ever be as productive as the method Gologit described. It also looks like it would delay any intentional turning of the tree to the side of the final angle cut as the angle piece would seem to prevent the stem from turning in that direction until it cleared the stump or broke off. Maybe the longer hinge on that side would counterbalance the delay - who knows. The only real merit I saw with this cut was the ability to get your wedge in a small tree and protect it from a saw strike.

I know the Euro videos seen to always feature small trees but nonetheless the men must be a lot stronger than me if they are able to roll these trees with those short pry bars. Hanging up small trees is almost second nature to me. If I knew a quicker heavy machine-less method than fence posting to get them un-hung I would be all over it.

Personally I like Gologit's approach in his falling video - he just walks over and cuts the tree down - no dinking around.

Ron

PS Did anyone else note the buttress paring was stated to be for a clear escape path not because they like to run short bars? Look to me that the tripping hazard remained and was less obvious after the pruning.
 
Nope. Hadn't seen this one before. But it is the same MO.

Why didn't you nip and cut, walk around the tree 3 times and then stab it?

Also why's that guide bar more than twice as long as the euro?

And where's your pry bar?

Maybe this helps explain your longevity in a dangerous profession.

Ron
 
I guess I could have done all that but I was taught differently. The idea was to always put as much wood on the ground...safely...as you could in a day. The old timers that I learned from were like pool players, always thinking several shots ahead and setting things up accordingly. They planned their work and they were very efficient. I was lucky to have people like that schooling me when I started out.
Most of them are long gone now but I sure wish I could show them a video like the one you posted. They always enjoyed a good laugh.
The bar was a 36" because that was all I usually ran unless I put on something longer. The day the video was taken I was into mostly small timber so a 36 did the job. Saves a lot of monkey-motion.
A pry bar? I have a couple around somewhere. They're handy for putting a track back on a Cat or maybe fixing a jammed cable on a skidding winch.
 
I guess I could have done all that but I was taught differently. The idea was to always put as much wood on the ground...safely...as you could in a day. The old timers that I learned from were like pool players, always thinking several shots ahead and setting things up accordingly. They planned their work and they were very efficient. I was lucky to have people like that schooling me when I started out.
Most of them are long gone now but I sure wish I could show them a video like the one you posted. They always enjoyed a good laugh.
The bar was a 36" because that was all I usually ran unless I put on something longer. The day the video was taken I was into mostly small timber so a 36 did the job. Saves a lot of monkey-motion.
A pry bar? I have a couple around somewhere. They're handy for putting a track back on a Cat or maybe fixing a jammed cable on a skidding winch.
I was taught the same as well as to save the wood out unlike what you see now. I will say I run a 32" bar as much as possible so there's lots of times I don't see the tip but I was taught to always start from where you started your face and walk a kerf over to the far side and then come back. Now the pry bar I agree it's a mechanics tool with its place but no place in a tree, could imagine trying to bar over a 5' butt by 36' or 40' long you'd blow your balls out. Sorry Bob most of this is at Ron.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
Nope. Hadn't seen this one before. But it is the same MO.

Why didn't you nip and cut, walk around the tree 3 times and then stab it?

Also why's that guide bar more than twice as long as the euro?

And where's your pry bar?

Maybe this helps explain your longevity in a dangerous profession.

Ron
Ron look above most of this is answered, only one I didn't answer is the bar length the less moving you have to do from one side to the other the less dangerous and monkeying around you have to do. Also remember we have larger wood out here as well as our lengths are longer then hardwood areas.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
Here's some of the bigger wood not some of the biggest we can do with this machine or the head.
vsctg7.jpg

This is a chain catcher for these heads that had 20 years of derails and had been grooved out pretty well with many beads on ac and almost smoking my tig torch with tons of heat into the block it's built up again.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 

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Skeans, that machine head is all wrong. It needs a shorter bar, a plunge and tilt mechanism and a stem rotator. It seems awful noisy to be solar powered - is it out of adjustment? I will say that it does seem to hover well.

The 21st century where PC rules and common sense doesn't.

Ron
 
Here's some of the bigger wood not some of the biggest we can do with this machine or the head.
vsctg7.jpg

This is a chain catcher for these heads that had 20 years of derails and had been grooved out pretty well with many beads on ac and almost smoking my tig torch with tons of heat into the block it's built up again.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

Good work skeans on both projects
 
Skeans, that machine head is all wrong. It needs a shorter bar, a plunge and tilt mechanism and a stem rotator. It seems awful noisy to be solar powered - is it out of adjustment? I will say that it does seem to hover well.

The 21st century where PC rules and common sense doesn't.

Ron
Lol its a nice simple machine and easy to run as well as keep going so no solar here especially with PNW weather.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
That guy would **** himself if he came to cut with
Me for a morning.
...

Come on, Bitzer, you wouldn't make room for an artist? With his saw and deft cuts, he is poetry in slow motion.

Seriously, the first thoughts that came to me while watching that video were the industry for our euro brothers must be so regulated and boring (no pun intended) that folks come up with these cuts for a little relief. Of course, I was just speculating and really have no idea what their work life is like beyond the distortions of YouTube.

Ron
 
Come on, Bitzer, you wouldn't make room for an artist? With his saw and deft cuts, he is poetry in slow motion.

Seriously, the first thoughts that came to me while watching that video were the industry for our euro brothers must be so regulated and boring (no pun intended) that folks come up with these cuts for a little relief. Of course, I was just speculating and really have no idea what their work life is like beyond the distortions of YouTube.

Ron

They keep trying to re-invent the wheel. Maybe they get paid by the hour.
 
That was cute and all, but why didn't you just jump up and down on it?

Because he's trying to show some professionalism, set a good example, show the rookies how things are 'sposed to be done...that sort of thing.

In real life, without the video going, he probably would've picked the damn thing up off the ground, thrown it over his shoulder, and walked to the landing with it. :laugh:
 

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