FarmerTec Holzfforma G660 Purple Monster

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I had a couple orders during the members sale and during the black friday sales and shipping was always delayed during those times compared to 'normal' times. I have a parts order from a week ago not yet shipped, yet one done a few days after that I received a ship notice. I think they are heavy busy. I've noticed lately that the ship notification system is a lot more functional and reliable the last couple months.
 
I know these saws haven't been around that long, but has anybody really put some serious hours on one of these Chinese saws? I don't mean cutting a couple of cords of fire wood, but wearing out several bars and chains. The recommended oil mix of 25-1 seems unusual when most makes are using 50-1. It makes me suspect inferior materials.
 
The kits have been around a couple of years, these are same parts just different color. So yes if it's assembled correctly and some parts switched the saws will cut wood all day long, so yes.

Now the 25:1 would not make an interior product run any longer. Worldwide countries don't care what the EPA has to say and that is why Stih and othersl run them at 50:1

They used to run them at 25:1 here before making the oil better.

Aftermarket can be fine,most cars use aftermarket. So it's more than that. A meteor cylinder is close to a stihl cylinder, FarmerTec cylinders are not close to meteor. So it all depends. Many of us use them but improve them by using critical parts from Stihl and meteor.

If your not interested in learning and willing to take some responsibility buy from Stihl. If you want to learn and build a great saw you can.

On these blue ones they might be throw aways unless you want to take it apart and replace them. I wonder if they are going to offer blue parts for them. The Stihl and orange FarmerTec parts will work on them because it's a 660. I have no idea how long they will last. The kits I built will last as long as a Stihl because I wAs responsible
I know these saws haven't been around that long, but has anybody really put some serious hours on one of these Chinese saws? I don't mean cutting a couple of cords of fire wood, but wearing out several bars and chains. The recommended oil mix of 25-1 seems unusual when most makes are using 50-1. It makes me suspect inferior materials.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
 
I know these saws haven't been around that long, but has anybody really put some serious hours on one of these Chinese saws? I don't mean cutting a couple of cords of fire wood, but wearing out several bars and chains. The recommended oil mix of 25-1 seems unusual when most makes are using 50-1. It makes me suspect inferior materials.

I run all 32:1 using Lucas Semi Synthetic in AM parts saws. Just wanting extra lube in there. All these years running Stihls and using Stihl oil at 50:1, just didn't seem as prudent with the AM saws. Eventually I'm going to switch one over to Stihl oil and see what 50:1 does.

If you want an overall picture of how these saws hold up, check out Walt's Hill Top Sawshop videos. Search through them and see where he has sent out some of his 660 builds for use by loggers to see if they'll keep running under extreme duress. He's been making videos of the 660s for at least 4 years now.

My thoughts are that the quality and reliability on a given kit saw are dependent on your care and finickyness during the build. I have 4 Huztl builds now, a pair of 361s that I am testing and comparing a bunch of porting steps and carburetor modifications to see how they perform, an MS250 that I use almost daily for limbing cleanup and slash pile management, and a MS660 that I'm still assembling. Can't say I have enough time on any one of these to draw a conclusion as to long term wear. From the value standpoint, doesn't seem to matter, as I already have gotten loads of value out of the ones I have running, both in cutting and in the enjoyment from building them. They already well serve the purpose and run as well as the OEM thing.

At first I was skeptical that these saws were ethical to pursue. Looking into the ethics, as I understand it, patent laws protect intellectual property like saw designs for 17 years. After that the designs fall into public domain. Not any different than generic drugs we all enjoy, or Chevy car parts that came from China. I'm a little surprised that they are now selling some of these saws as complete units instead of a box of parts. And as cheaply as the box of parts. My personal take on that is there is no way to separate themselves from any other cheap chinese saw. No liability protections other than thousands of miles of ocean between them and us. No real warranty behind them. You should see how frustrating it can get when trying to get them to send you the 39¢ parts they left out of your kits. They do reply, but they drag feet often enough to make it useful to just go out and get them yourself. I think the US is not the largest part of their market. The third world is HUGE for inexpensive saws with great designs behind them. I do wonder how long it will continue without any real support structure.

The one place that consistently worries me on longevity is stuff like chain tension adjusters, that while they claim is a replacement for OEM, the dimensions of their cases and of the adjuster parts is enough different that they do not cross. You cannot use their adjuster in an OEM Stihl saw and you cannot use a quality AM from Stens or Hyway or the OEM adjuster in the Huztl saw. That is one component that we are dependent on Huztl for long term. I will probably order a few extras just to make sure.

For the money, I think they are a good deal. I wouldn't trade my Stihls for them though.

Rick
 
I run all 32:1 using Lucas Semi Synthetic in AM parts saws. Just wanting extra lube in there. All these years running Stihls and using Stihl oil at 50:1, just didn't seem as prudent with the AM saws. Eventually I'm going to switch one over to Stihl oil and see what 50:1 does.

If you want an overall picture of how these saws hold up, check out Walt's Hill Top Sawshop videos. Search through them and see where he has sent out some of his 660 builds for use by loggers to see if they'll keep running under extreme duress. He's been making videos of the 660s for at least 4 years now.

My thoughts are that the quality and reliability on a given kit saw are dependent on your care and finickyness during the build. I have 4 Huztl builds now, a pair of 361s that I am testing and comparing a bunch of porting steps and carburetor modifications to see how they perform, an MS250 that I use almost daily for limbing cleanup and slash pile management, and a MS660 that I'm still assembling. Can't say I have enough time on any one of these to draw a conclusion as to long term wear. From the value standpoint, doesn't seem to matter, as I already have gotten loads of value out of the ones I have running, both in cutting and in the enjoyment from building them. They already well serve the purpose and run as well as the OEM thing.

At first I was skeptical that these saws were ethical to pursue. Looking into the ethics, as I understand it, patent laws protect intellectual property like saw designs for 17 years. After that the designs fall into public domain. Not any different than generic drugs we all enjoy, or Chevy car parts that came from China. I'm a little surprised that they are now selling some of these saws as complete units instead of a box of parts. And as cheaply as the box of parts. My personal take on that is there is no way to separate themselves from any other cheap chinese saw. No liability protections other than thousands of miles of ocean between them and us. No real warranty behind them. You should see how frustrating it can get when trying to get them to send you the 39¢ parts they left out of your kits. They do reply, but they drag feet often enough to make it useful to just go out and get them yourself. I think the US is not the largest part of their market. The third world is HUGE for inexpensive saws with great designs behind them. I do wonder how long it will continue without any real support structure.

The one place that consistently worries me on longevity is stuff like chain tension adjusters, that while they claim is a replacement for OEM, the dimensions of their cases and of the adjuster parts is enough different that they do not cross. You cannot use their adjuster in an OEM Stihl saw and you cannot use a quality AM from Stens or Hyway or the OEM adjuster in the Huztl saw. That is one component that we are dependent on Huztl for long term. I will probably order a few extras just to make sure.

For the money, I think they are a good deal. I wouldn't trade my Stihls for them though.

Rick
I got the first kits sold and it's been a couple of years. He actually bought the parts individually and assembled them. The kit cases have improved. The first cases in the kits had a defect that was solved by using some tiny tubing to align the adjuster. People assumed it was a bad adjuster and many of the gears we're crappy. Those have changed many times. In fact after they fixed the cases it happened again for a short while they got hold of the orginial case mold but fixed it after not too long.

Running full synthetic is the best insurance no matter the brand. In fact using av100 fuel gives you a edge because it has a little lead in it. Not an option for 2cycle with a catalytic muffler

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy
 
I got the first kits sold and it's been a couple of years. He actually bought the parts individually and assembled them. The kit cases have improved. The first cases in the kits had a defect that was solved by using some tiny tubing to align the adjuster. People assumed it was a bad adjuster and many of the gears we're crappy. Those have changed many times. In fact after they fixed the cases it happened again for a short while they got hold of the orginial case mold but fixed it after not too long.

Running full synthetic is the best insurance no matter the brand. In fact using av100 fuel gives you a edge because it has a little lead in it. Not an option for 2cycle with a catalytic muffler

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy
My case was the same. Wore the adjuster out. Had to get a new one and use the tubing.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
Every time I think about the guy dav that came up with the fix it always impressed me from the stand point of understanding it was the cases role that was causing us the problems. It really pissed me off when Walt took credit or maybe he did not give him credit while he was doing one of his videos, long enough ago for me to forget the details, only other thing quite like it was who ever thought of wrapping twine around the manifold to pull it in. It's the small things that can be quite helpful.
My case was the same. Wore the adjuster out. Had to get a new one and use the tubing.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
 
My case was the same. Wore the adjuster out. Had to get a new one and use the tubing.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

I'm less worried about the metal quality as I am that the case and gear dimensions are different enough you CAN'T use anyone else's adjuster. And yeah, the metal ain't as good, so they wear out. But worse, the post the ring gear sits on is further away from the adjuster rod than OEM cases. So the Huztl adjuster don't work on an OEM case and vice versa. You have to buy and use the Huztl adjusters. I would dearly love to use a Hyway brand or an OEM adjuster.
 
I'm not too worried about the little things like an adjuster that you can gerry rig. I am more concerned the bearing and seals are gonna make me have to take the thing apart and rebuild it within months anyways. But the price is nearly the same as a parts kit. So I wonder if anyone has had bearing issues with their complete saws.
 
Something just occurred to me. What OEM parts do not fit in the adjuster?

Stihl does not offer a kit. There are 5 separate part #'s that make up the oem system. One part has the gears and oring. Other parts make up the rest of the system.

So are you saying that you bought all 5 of them and it does not work? Or you using some Stihl and some FarmerTec parts and find that combination does not work?

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
 
Every time I think about the guy dav that came up with the fix it always impressed me from the stand point of understanding it was the cases role that was causing us the problems. It really pissed me off when Walt took credit or maybe he did not give him credit while he was doing one of his videos, long enough ago for me to forget the details, only other thing quite like it was who ever thought of wrapping twine around the manifold to pull it in. It's the small things that can be quite helpful.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
I saw the tubing fix on Walt's video. I don't recall him giving any one credit for it. I assumed it was his idea. Thanks for clearing that up.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
I have had or seen zero issues with the seals, a few times people have found debris in the bearings. Do you plan on testing them when you get one? Chances of seals/ bearings failing are slim then

Things that could be an issue because you have no option to improve are:
1. Any failure of the carb that causes a lean condition down the road?
2. Circlip tails causing cylinder/piston faliure
3. Cylinder/piston failing / main bearing overheat
4. Worm gear not working damaging bar chain
5. Decomp coming apart and causing failures
Not to mention having to reset it each pop
6. Oil hose leaking
7. Fuel hose pulling out of fuel causing leans after
1/2 tank
I'm not too worried about the little things like an adjuster that you can gerry rig. I am more concerned the bearing and seals are gonna make me have to take the thing apart and rebuild it within months anyways. But the price is nearly the same as a parts kit. So I wonder if anyone has had bearing issues with their complete saws.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
 
When I get my 200t like I want it, in a few weeks, I will go over the g660. I would like to run it a little. I will take top off and we can look at that and other aspects. I will test it too

I do find it is way easier to pull than any past kit, any brand cylinder and I think I have used 4 brands.

For anyone that can build a kit they sure can fix this one if it breaks.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
 
Something just occurred to me. What OEM parts do not fit in the adjuster?

Stihl does not offer a kit. There are 5 separate part #'s that make up the oem system. One part has the gears and oring. Other parts make up the rest of the system.

So are you saying that you bought all 5 of them and it does not work? Or you using some Stihl and some FarmerTec parts and find that combination does not work?

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy

I have on hand a Stens and a HyWay kit. I have a few OEM parts as well as a couple OEM saws to make comparisons with. So far, for me anyway, the Huztl adjusters for the 361s and the 660 kits I have (same Huztl part) the big adjuster gear is significantly larger than the other manufacturer's product. The OEM, Sten and HyWay are between 14.60 mm and 14.85 mm diameter. The Huztl is 15.9 mm. The post cast into the Huztl case that it sits on, on both the 361 and the 660 cases, are a millimeter further from the adjuster screw than in an OEM case. I haven't figured out any fix for this, you just have to use Huztl adjusters. I did swap in an OEM tensioner slide, the part with the pin that sticks out into the bar. See if that helps any long term.

Rick

adjuster.jpg
 
I have had or seen zero issues with the seals, a few times people have found debris in the bearings. Do you plan on testing them when you get one? Chances of seals/ bearings failing are slim then

Things that could be an issue because you have no option to improve are:
1. Any failure of the carb that causes a lean condition down the road?
2. Circlip tails causing cylinder/piston faliure
3. Cylinder/piston failing / main bearing overheat
4. Worm gear not working damaging bar chain
5. Decomp coming apart and causing failures
Not to mention having to reset it each pop
6. Oil hose leaking
7. Fuel hose pulling out of fuel causing leans after
1/2 tank

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
Dunno what you mean about testing them. I only really test stuff dealers I know in the UK send me to test since I do deal some of their items. For me, it's more about whether it is worth it to give it a try without it grenading so much as to destroy itself and be a total loss. I think you've answered that question. It's not really worth it even at the price, is it? I mean, unless it's a toy. I don't need a toy. I'll look more towards a used 660. Which of course, is also a gamble as well...
 
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