FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

[TreeJoe]

I've been lurking and reading these threads a lot but now that my build is complete I thought I should document my challenges. Afleetcommand and Matt's bolt-for-bolt videos were very helpful as were these threads. This is my first time working on chainsaw guts.

I ordered my kit in September but only got it running this week (after multiple teardowns and redos, and much frustration). The big breakthrough was figuring out how I have to use the decomp valve. I can't just click it on then pull the cord, since when it fires it almost pulls my arm out of the socket (and doesn't start). But if I hold the button down while pulling, then release it at the end of the pull stroke, there is enough angular velocity for the saw to start when it fires. Maybe that's common knowledge and I should have asked earlier. I'm still on the first tank but it seems to be working great.

I am aware of the bad rep of the Huztl decomp so I'm using an all-metal Forester branded one.

The only part missing was the clutch cover but they sent one no prob (just via china post).

I'm using a 54mm top end from a random china ebay seller since I stripped the decomp valve threads in the Huztl one. The new one is at 0.025" squish with no gasket, just motoseal. Also a random china ebay carb since I was trying to rule that out (the new one says "Walbro"...).

I used a press for the crank install and took the seals out first, and used new china seals both times. I had to redo the crank install since I messed up the gasket the first time and I later decided that a motoseal-only crankcase didn't leave enough internal clearance (< 5 thou or touching on both sides). As a last step I used a mallet on the shaft along with appropriate inside shims to make sure there was no preload on the bearings and get it fully centered. For press tools I just needed a piece of 3/4" iron pipe and a couple identical-length pieces of 5/8" steel rod. I used harbor freight blue loctite on the outer walls of the seals.

My china seals pass vac and pressure tests fine (for now). If you order a MityVac don't get it through eBay. I had an issue with the gauge not showing vac and the manufacturer was no help. Finally fixed it myself by slamming it hard against a table which somehow reset the needle.

My fuel line was leaking so I replaced it with tygon. I also used a utility knife to remove mold ridges on the elbow on top of the tank. The gas cap leaked so I got an OEM, but it doesn't seem any nicer. I still have to use a screwdriver to get it tight enough.

I was so excited to get the saw running that I throttled it a little with the chain brake on and melted the clutch eclip. The Stihl tech at the dealer suggested I get a new washer too and I think it was worth $3 for the washer. The chinese one is thin and stamped but the OEM one is thick and machined. Probably not a common failure point I guess.

I picked up a Huztl 070 preassembled on cyber monday since I wasn't sure if the 660 would ever run and I already had the Huztl 36" mill. I've only cut ten 20" slabs but it's working fine. I may try the 660 out with the mill but the 070 is pretty nice to use. I got a 42" bar to go with the 070. I guess the 660 might cut faster but get hotter. Even just considering the pitch/sound freq of the 070 vs the 660 I might want to stick with the 070 for milling.

I kinda want a 361 kit next...

You brought out something I thought about posting on. I went with the the1chainsawguy. I watched those others guys videos, I tried them they were not my taste. I was looking more for a professional approach and well thought out presentation and his videos provided that. The old guy spends way to much time imparting wisdom I don't need. In fact there are no videos on the 070 that come even close to the1chainsawguy. Tips and tricks not available. The old guy, I saw him take an idea and use it and I can't forgive him for that. His videos are not clear. the1chainsawguy took the time to do it right. If you read he was the guy that found and provided the actual manual and the guy even has a website to give you information. He takes the kits very seriously. Seems like you had a rough go. The help you got was not much help was it? lol I did not even know HF had loctite.

I finally built a 660 and a 070 and I followed kit guys advice and had zero problems because he told you about the problems and how to handle them. It might be true that people are more comformatble listening to people who they think are more like them rather than how good a job they do, I notice he never appears on camera so I am not sure about that. I really like that he has a website, no ads, just info to help total strangers.

to you kit gut don't let this go to your head keep trying to improve, you should show more than your bald head

 

[MG porting]

I've been lurking and reading these threads a lot but now that my build is complete I thought I should document my challenges. Afleetcommand and Matt's bolt-for-bolt videos were very helpful as were these threads. This is my first time working on chainsaw guts.

I ordered my kit in September but only got it running this week (after multiple teardowns and redos, and much frustration). The big breakthrough was figuring out how I have to use the decomp valve. I can't just click it on then pull the cord, since when it fires it almost pulls my arm out of the socket (and doesn't start). But if I hold the button down while pulling, then release it at the end of the pull stroke, there is enough angular velocity for the saw to start when it fires. Maybe that's common knowledge and I should have asked earlier. I'm still on the first tank but it seems to be working great.

I am aware of the bad rep of the Huztl decomp so I'm using an all-metal Forester branded one.

The only part missing was the clutch cover but they sent one no prob (just via china post).

I'm using a 54mm top end from a random china ebay seller since I stripped the decomp valve threads in the Huztl one. The new one is at 0.025" squish with no gasket, just motoseal. Also a random china ebay carb since I was trying to rule that out (the new one says "Walbro"...).

I used a press for the crank install and took the seals out first, and used new china seals both times. I had to redo the crank install since I messed up the gasket the first time and I later decided that a motoseal-only crankcase didn't leave enough internal clearance (< 5 thou or touching on both sides). As a last step I used a mallet on the shaft along with appropriate inside shims to make sure there was no preload on the bearings and get it fully centered. For press tools I just needed a piece of 3/4" iron pipe and a couple identical-length pieces of 5/8" steel rod. I used harbor freight blue loctite on the outer walls of the seals.

My china seals pass vac and pressure tests fine (for now). If you order a MityVac don't get it through eBay. I had an issue with the gauge not showing vac and the manufacturer was no help. Finally fixed it myself by slamming it hard against a table which somehow reset the needle.

My fuel line was leaking so I replaced it with tygon. I also used a utility knife to remove mold ridges on the elbow on top of the tank. The gas cap leaked so I got an OEM, but it doesn't seem any nicer. I still have to use a screwdriver to get it tight enough.

I was so excited to get the saw running that I throttled it a little with the chain brake on and melted the clutch eclip. The Stihl tech at the dealer suggested I get a new washer too and I think it was worth $3 for the washer. The chinese one is thin and stamped but the OEM one is thick and machined. Probably not a common failure point I guess.

I picked up a Huztl 070 preassembled on cyber monday since I wasn't sure if the 660 would ever run and I already had the Huztl 36" mill. I've only cut ten 20" slabs but it's working fine. I may try the 660 out with the mill but the 070 is pretty nice to use. I got a 42" bar to go with the 070. I guess the 660 might cut faster but get hotter. Even just considering the pitch/sound freq of the 070 vs the 660 I might want to stick with the 070 for milling.

I kinda want a 361 kit next...

If you do plan on working the ms660 in the mill run it as rich as it will let you but not so rich that it becomes a dog and have fun.

 

[MG porting]

A trick I use is to copy and paste the number into Google and it will give you the low down

Well all I can get from the tracking is that its in transit. Uugg

 

[Bedford T]

Not that you need to worry over it but sometimes I use different tools. Like if it is overseas and it gets handed off over here to let's say to ups. I use aftership to get to New York and then call the shipper and get the second tracking number for ups and then I can see it again. Lotta work but I hate waiting. Lol maybe next week for sure.

I got 10 days of rain coming here. I mentioned I hate waiting, same thing while I wait on the sunshine,.....

 

[Bedford T]

Well all I can get from the tracking is that its in transit. Uugg

what are you using to sharpen your chains? i been just re buying chain and recently got more. i am to the point i need to get something and i think i should buy one of those 2n1 pferd cs-x. i would need all four sizes big and small 3/8, .325 and the .404. i dont see another option since i want it to be quick and easy. re buying the chain is quick and easy too, lol

i was at the dealer today. they had their pressure washers out. the rb600 and rb800 are very nice.

 

[MG porting]

what are you using to sharpen your chains? i been just re buying chain and recently got more. i am to the point i need to get something and i think i should buy one of those 2n1 pferd cs-x. i would need all four sizes big and small 3/8, .325 and the .404. i dont see another option since i want it to be quick and easy. re buying the chain is quick and easy too, lol

i was at the dealer today. they had their pressure washers out. the rb600 and rb800 are very nice.

Lol. Sorry for the late reply just took a little nap well it's coming from Texas so I think it will most likely get here Monday. And what I use for filling my chains is by hand for the most part but when i have the time I use a Husqvarna jig to help make the all the teeth more uniform. And a standard depth gage to set the guides where I like them. But I would like to get a electric chain grinder some day because I do have some silvi ground chains and those babies throw the chips when sharps

 

[MG porting]

what are you using to sharpen your chains? i been just re buying chain and recently got more. i am to the point i need to get something and i think i should buy one of those 2n1 pferd cs-x. i would need all four sizes big and small 3/8, .325 and the .404. i dont see another option since i want it to be quick and easy. re buying the chain is quick and easy too, lol

i was at the dealer today. they had their pressure washers out. the rb600 and rb800 are very nice.

And FYI to bad you live so far away because i could teach you how to sharpen up those chains at first it can be a bit tasking but one's you get used to it it go's faster for you .

 

[geekamole]

You brought out something I thought about posting on. I went with the the1chainsawguy. I watched those others guys videos, I tried them they were not my taste. I was looking more for a professional approach and well thought out presentation and his videos provided that. The old guy spends way to much time imparting wisdom I don't need. In fact there are no videos on the 070 that come even close to the1chainsawguy. Tips and tricks not available. The old guy, I saw him take an idea and use it and I can't forgive him for that. His videos are not clear. the1chainsawguy took the time to do it right. If you read he was the guy that found and provided the actual manual and the guy even has a website to give you information. He takes the kits very seriously. Seems like you had a rough go. The help you got was not much help was it? lol I did not even know HF had loctite.

I finally built a 660 and a 070 and I followed kit guys advice and had zero problems because he told you about the problems and how to handle them. It might be true that people are more comformatble listening to people who they think are more like them rather than how good a job they do, I notice he never appears on camera so I am not sure about that. I really like that he has a website, no ads, just info to help total strangers.

to you kit gut don't let this go to your head keep trying to improve, you should show more than your bald head

No intention of knocking Bedford T's video series or really endorsing anything else; I haven't watched most of Bedford's, but I think they came out after my initial assembly. Afleetcommand is long-winded but I find him a little interesting since he's built so many kits and has done some crude statistics on them. Main point of watching the bolt-for-bolt was to distinguish what the parts were. Most of the other stuff I used came from threads/googling. Maybe somebody could have suggested my final decomp solution but for me, for some reason it was more of a personal challenge to discover it on my own (or at least without spamming every chainsaw forum); also the behavior of my saw seems different from any other build I've read about (my main reason for posting here). Using the 070 actually gave me a hint since its decomp button is so different.

It was a rough go, but I think it was worth it because I learned a lot in the process of debugging the issues. Definitely a rewarding experience.

No ads on my personal website either (my username .com)

 

[Bedford T]

No intention of knocking Bedford T's video series or really endorsing anything else; I haven't watched most of Bedford's, but I think they came out after my initial assembly. Afleetcommand is long-winded but I find him a little interesting since he's built so many kits and has done some crude statistics on them. Main point of watching the bolt-for-bolt was to distinguish what the parts were. Most of the other stuff I used came from threads/googling. Maybe somebody could have suggested my final decomp solution but for me, for some reason it was more of a personal challenge to discover it on my own (or at least without spamming every chainsaw forum); also the behavior of my saw seems different from any other build I've read about (my main reason for posting here). Using the 070 actually gave me a hint since its decomp button is so different.

It was a rough go, but I think it was worth it because I learned a lot in the process of debugging the issues. Definitely a rewarding experience.

No ads on my personal website either (my username .com)

I did not feel knocked. I even missed your post. Phone screen and me have troubles. Great you are running. That fella at some point said this place was a soap opera. For your clarity I was in the group of first builders. Before the other guys you like. I was actually the guy that got huztl to sell the kits in the US. I am happy other people joined in. That was my desire from the start. So people like you could learn if they wanted. Walt's videos were terrible. You could see he did it. But not how. That's when I started making video, his likely improved but I never needed to watch another so unsure. I am not a video star and never wanted to be. Just wanted other guys and girls to build their kits and talk about them. I guess I was successful. Problem is they don't try hard anymore to provide everything in the kits and good guailty. That decomp valve sux. I paid for a Stihl one and will every time. So welcome

 

[gchamber]

Welp. Got the saw back together. Had it running well. Cutting well for about 15 minutes. Then shut off on me. Pull the cord and can feel little compression. Cylinder head bolts are on and tight still. Looking in the muffler port, the cylinder seems pretty dry. Which is surprising to me running 40:1.

So I suspect Bedford is correct and I will need to order a new case, crank and seal kit. I'll do a post mortem this week to see if I can find anything else that might have gone wrong.

 

[gchamber]

This doesn't look promising.

 

[Bedford T]

Welp. Got the saw back together. Had it running well. Cutting well for about 15 minutes. Then shut off on me. Pull the cord and can feel little compression. Cylinder head bolts are on and tight still. Looking in the muffler port, the cylinder seems pretty dry. Which is surprising to me running 40:1.

So I suspect Bedford is correct and I will need to order a new case, crank and seal kit. I'll do a post mortem this week to see if I can find anything else that might have gone wrong.

Dude I am so sorry it worked out like that. Did you see the fault analysis post that was made. Helps you understand what you discover.

Don't shoot me but you should invest in the equipment to test it. You have proof it's necessary. Am telling ya you got a 40% chance of a repeat without it.

What State do you live, maybe you are close to someone who could test it for you. You could ship it to me and I would test it for you but you would likely cost the same in shipping as the three items you need to buy. Buy it means you are in control here forward.

If you need help we are here

 

[MG porting]

This doesn't look promising. View attachment 632142

You were running way to lean by the looks of that ouch did you tack it to see what you were running at wide open??

 

[MG porting]

Dude I am so sorry it worked out like that. Did you see the fault analysis post that was made. Helps you understand what you discover.

Don't shoot me but you should invest in the equipment to test it. You have proof it's necessary. Am telling ya you got a 40% chance of a repeat without it.

What State do you live, maybe you are close to someone who could test it for you. You could ship it to me and I would test it for you but you would likely cost the same in shipping as the three items you need to buy. Buy it means you are in control here forward.

If you need help we are here

Like Bedford T seed you should invest in a pressure vac tester that will help you from major headaches thats for sure sorry bud I've seen this happen a lot even with oem saw's it's a real bummer when it happens.

 

[Bedford T]

This doesn't look promising. View attachment 632142

Check for a pm. I sent it in a zip to you

 

[MG porting]

And this gets back to the carbs they are jetted why to lean aspeshily if there are no air leeks and people are still running there saw's at oem specks it's a learning curve that's for sure.

 

[gchamber]

I got the zip. Couldn't open it on my phone though. I'll have to check on a computer. I even sealed the cylinder gasket so I'm not sure where I might have been getting an air leak from to run that lean.

I think when I get the new case and crank I'm just going to use the 54mm cylinder. Try to avoid as many issues as possible from having to clearance the new case.

I should be able to reuse just about everything else on the saw right?

 

[Bedford T]

I think, the carbs are time bombs, been changing mine out. You can burn one up with no air leak. Carb not working right, jet to small, air leak. All just fuel related. Then you have the cylinder pitfalls.

I see good people not understanding the importance of those things until it's too late. Guess that needs to be taught in saw builders school that is included in each saw. Or just do what HL does. Don't build a saw with this kit and you can't have problems you can't solve. I don't like that one, but it works lol

 

[Bedford T]

I got the zip. Couldn't open it on my phone though. I'll have to check on a computer. I even sealed the cylinder gasket so I'm not sure where I might have been getting an air leak from to run that lean.

I think when I get the new case and crank I'm just going to use the 54mm cylinder. Try to avoid as many issues as possible from having to clearance the new case.

I should be able to reuse just about everything else on the saw right?

Yes sir, that's a plan. Consider the fuel circuit as well

 

[gchamber]

Is there a way to test the carb for not flowing enough? It didn't seem that dry when it broke cylinder bolts. So I am really curious as to where my air leak was coming from. I had the jets set at 1 turn out, per stihl spec.

I'll go down to the local stihl dealer and order a new gasket kit tomorrow. And order a new crank and case from huztl. Does anyone know if HL supply has shorter shipping times? Or anywhere else to get those parts without waiting 3 weeks for shipping?

I'll have to look at testing options for a leak down and pressure test. Not looking to break the bank but also not looking to build this saw a fourth time lol