FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

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I don't expect it to be as good as a Stihl, just had to try them to see how good they are.
I am not blowing my horn just want to know what the problems were. I know they don't make as much power as the real deal unless you do some work on the cylinder The 440 had .045 clearance without a gasket
 
I know guys in the business that have, can and do. Stihl has a great program you should be in every school and be the best in the class. It's a art. Troubleshooting, the correct way. With the correct tools.

Guys like you think you have done it, but you seldom work with pro cases and that is something guys that work in it full time benefit with the kits, that experience of working with the cases and seeing it all come together. Most Stihl guys replace carbs all day.

Make it an art.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
 
dmb2613 said:
I can get oem at a good price lol but that is not the point the kit parts should work
Click to expand...
I agree the kit parts should work but all of them don't. The cylinders are inconsistent from kit to kit. My squish was .035 with no gasket, some guys have gotten .020 with gasket. Most of the parts are usable but a few are junk. All in all the kits are good. You can have a running saw with just a couple extra parts. But if you want a really good running saw like Bedford said, you will have to put alot more money in parts. The only OEM part in mine so far is a Husqvarna decomp. I have used a couple after market parts from other sources. I haven't used mine much because it's just too hot here. But it does run pretty good, it could be better but it does run and I enjoyed building it and learned a lot.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
I wonder if the guys with squish around .020 are the better ones.
I built 3 with all around .022 squish that was late 2016 models. I have one more kit that was shipped from china around February-April 2017 to HL then to me. I may built the case and see.
 
X 66 Stang347 X said:
I wonder if the guys with squish around .020 are the better ones.
I built 3 with all around .022 squish that was late 2016 models. I have one more kit that was shipped from china around February-April 2017 to HL then to me. I may built the case and see.
Click to expand...
I got mine in may and one other got his a couple weeks ago and his was good. Mine shipped from NJ.

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It seems people have different routes they want to take their kit saws. If you want oem "like" longevity then go with a good nikasil cylinder and appropriate upgrades. If your a once a year firewood cutter then the chrome cylinder will out last you. Most important is A good fresh fuel with good oil "at the appropriate ratio for it's end use" and a tune that holds every time you run it. Pick your build then see how many years it last. The chrome cylinders break in and wears better with the cheaper rings.

Same with the top handles.
The one it comes with will work if you run it on the bench all day.
The 3/4 wrap will last the firewood cutter. None is as good as the oem.
 
My boys just finished up a 066 huztl with the Farmertec big bore kit, yesterday. First I was amazed the chain tensioner in the kit worked, but still no nuts for mounting the dawgs.

The big bore was a tough pulling saw, so the decompression valve was needed, no stihl dealer near me to get an oem part so...

We blew the top, (plastic cap) off two am compression releases. Then we welded a nut on one to replace the plastic cap, problem solved! As stated before: the kit decomp valves are crap!

Made some quick cookies, impressive so far!

Going to huztl up some firewood today!:chainsaw:

Edit;The cylinder had some sharp and rough edges on the ports, we hand sanded them with 400 wet dry until they felt rounded and smooth. Our foredom needs a new handpiece, so hence the hand sanding.
 
X 66 Stang347 X said:
It seems people have different routes they want to take their kit saws. If you want oem "like" longevity then go with a good nikasil cylinder and appropriate upgrades. If your a once a year firewood cutter then the chrome cylinder will out last you. Most important is A good fresh fuel with good oil "at the appropriate ratio for it's end use" and a tune that holds every time you run it. Pick your build then see how many years it last. The chrome cylinders break in and wears better with the cheaper rings.

Same with the top handles.
The one it comes with will work if you run it on the bench all day.
The 3/4 wrap will last the firewood cutter. None is as good as the oem.
Click to expand...
(This got too long, first & last paragraph is the meat and potatoes)

Your participation in the thread has waned. There has been considerable trouble with the cylinders of late and the posts have detailed that issue, from my own experience and others. We have shared our stories and photos. So I would appreciate you considering that when you say they are ok. I know that people who don't have a great deal of experience run up on the problem need to be mindful and saying they are ok works against that. They may be ok again. The problem lies in QC and we know there is none.

A poor cylinder kit can damage your saw, a rough cylinder can snag a ring, the caviets go on., How about when it puts your rod in a bind and damages the main bearing. Not just FarmerTec, even cross. You get a bad one you need to admit it, if only to one's self. I have only seen two manufacturer that don't share a iffy track record, Stihl and meteor

We bring in this info to be helpful.

If you have access to a lathe then you can make a bad cylinder better. These warnings have nothing to do with the coating, all though if you are building to get the most out of your investment a good coating will improve it. I don't regret my purchase.

A good chrome cylinder with matched rings are very good. I will definie a good chrome cylinder as one that has been finished so not to catch rings and the geometry is correct. The kits have not contained that in some time, maybe the finish in forever. I never expected a ported cylinder in the kit. I have said this from day one it would take them several minutes to smooth it before selling it. Never could get them to do that much.

So back to the best advice to anyone that wants your crank to last, your saw to last, depend on a good cylinder kit. If money is a problem ask a local to spin it for you. Then as long as your clear do as you wish.

I got about 500 in mine and a dealer would charge 1200 around here. What a deal. My only regret was all that time I wasted with bad cylinderS in this last kit. 2 bad FarmerTec, 1 bad Cross when I could have just spent $119 for the meteor and been done with it



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
The
 
A little give away, If 5 people tell their story of what they had to do or change or correct their KIT cylinder kit on their FARMERTEC ms660 kit to make it work or make it safer. Include things like squish how rough it was, any broken pieces, issues

I will write the folks names down on a piece of paper and i will draw one name from my hat on Saturday 28th 8pm est. Free with free shipping to lower 48 sent to winner on Monday 30th

Once you get used to tuning with these disks you will see how accurate you will become adjusting needles. The settings document Stihl has uses this scale, for example telling you to tune H, 1 turn out, on the scale that's 0-0, 1 full turn. But L 1.5 turns to 20 (14+6) makes your adjustment accurate. I use mine Everytime (photo is showing both sides of one disk.

Good luck if got anything to share
8841687c94fa6f25ef59d2b1c35765fa.jpg
8dbc2c6e5ee681cca38a116b0604af78.jpg
27efc6976fca360ca63eb8942f212809.jpg


chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
 
Bedford T said:
(This got too long, first & last paragraph is the meat and potatoes)

Your participation in the thread has waned. There has been considerable trouble with the cylinders of late and the posts have detailed that issue, from my own experience and others. We have shared our stories and photos. So I would appreciate you considering that when you say they are ok. I know that people who don't have a great deal of experience run up on the problem need to be mindful and saying they are ok works against that. They may be ok again. The problem lies in QC and we know there is none.

A poor cylinder kit can damage your saw, a rough cylinder can snag a ring, the caviets go on., How about when it puts your rod in a bind and damages the main bearing. Not just FarmerTec, even cross. You get a bad one you need to admit it, if only to one's self. I have only seen two manufacturer that don't share a iffy track record, Stihl and meteor

We bring in this info to be helpful.

If you have access to a lathe then you can make a bad cylinder better. These warnings have nothing to do with the coating, all though if you are building to get the most out of your investment a good coating will improve it. I don't regret my purchase.

A good chrome cylinder with matched rings are very good. I will definie a good chrome cylinder as one that has been finished so not to catch rings and the geometry is correct. The kits have not contained that in some time, maybe the finish in forever. I never expected a ported cylinder in the kit. I have said this from day one it would take them several minutes to smooth it before selling it. Never could get them to do that much.

So back to the best advice to anyone that wants your crank to last, your saw to last, depend on a good cylinder kit. If money is a problem ask a local to spin it for you. Then as long as your clear do as you wish.

I got about 500 in mine and a dealer would charge 1200 around here. What a deal. My only regret was all that time I wasted with bad cylinderS in this last kit. 2 bad FarmerTec, 1 bad Cross when I could have just spent $119 for the meteor and been done with it



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
The
Click to expand...

Lol Sorry, I can't say it was easy reading that long post either. And it took 4 days for you to reply.

You really don't know what I've followed! I have read every post as it's happened. The only thing I was looking at is when the cylinders supposedly went bad.
The 2 first ones I use are still ok, They have been with everyday tree cutters and have no idea how much they ran, but it's beat up and looks like it's been abused.
I'll see if I can get some pics, that may be more interesting.

Edit: I don't want this thread from you! Please don't run everyone off. Don't post til your meds wane.
 
Ok, here's my story. I bought this for the challenge and satisfaction of building it. I like to build things. I have built 6 AR-15 rifles. It's just something I enjoy. I have sold some of them because I don't need them all and it gets expensive. Same deal with this saw kit. I didn't need it at all. I wanted to see how well it would work with all AM parts. That's why I have not bought any Stihl parts. I want it to be totally AM. I have replaced a couple parts with different AM parts that are better than farmertec. Since I have this saw and it's runs, I bought a mill for it and will use it for occasional milling since I like woodworking as well.
My cylinder wasn't that great, chrome plating is not uniform, some of the ports we're sharp, used sandpaper to smooth them out. The squish was .035 with NO gasket. That's what irritated me the most. It has 155 psi compression so far. May go up a little with use. I don't know. I have like $310 in it including huztl 25" bar and chain.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
Nice. Palmetto State Armory isn't far from you ammoaddict. I've built several with their parts. My last was a 10.5"
 
Hello everyone from Australia, first post but have been lurking a while.
Just ordered a 660 kit for the experience and light firewood cutting maybe 5 times a year.
Not very experienced with saws but like tinkering with stuff so should be a nice challenge.
Is there any parts that I should buy before building this ? Also what size bar and chain should I be buying for this ?
Any brands I should be looking at or is the farmertec bars and chains good enough ?
Thanks for looking !
 

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