Finished log lift build (pics)

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sawjo

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I posted here a few weeks ago with my log lift project started. I know you guys like pictures so hopefully I haven't wasted too much bandwith with these. I designed the lift to attatch with quick connects so I can work on it or for transport, although I can disconnect the cylinder and stand it up straight if I want.


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Heres a pic of the underneath workings:


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The quick connect plumbing:


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The valve - I used a Prince valve designed for a splitting ram and another circuit for a lift etc. I also pumbed in some flow control valves to control speed of lift. So far, everything is working as supposed to. i also fabricated the caster wheel setup in front for easy transport, I have a work "leg" shown in the fourth picture. Let me know what you guys think. I busted my B@lls on this baby but figure its cheaper than back surgery.


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Thats an awesome looking splitter. What about a hinged table opposite the lift so the half doesn't fall. Less bending over, faster splitting. Just a thought.
 
Thats an awesome looking splitter. What about a hinged table opposite the lift so the half doesn't fall. Less bending over, faster splitting. Just a thought.

Table is next on the list:msp_biggrin:
 
NICE JOB!!!:clap: Looks like a lot of thought went in to your project. I too built a lift on my splitter last winter, one thing you might want to consider changeing is the overall height of the splitter. The older we get, the less bending over we ant to do do, I am only in my late 40's, but I am getting more aware of the little things to make life a littler easier. A little height makes a world of difference, the lift is a big step though, again, nice job.
 
Nice job, it looks thought out and simple. I would like to build myself a splitter one of these years. Why the quick connects? Do you think you will be taking it on and off much?
 
Nice job, it looks thought out and simple. I would like to build myself a splitter one of these years. Why the quick connects? Do you think you will be taking it on and off much?

I wanted the quick connects so I could fold it up straight without making the hyd lines too long and easy removal if I want fix/change something later. They work fine and made for a good mount and transition point for the plumbing - the splitter doesn't have alot of room for plumbing.
 
I want one. Where do I sign up?

Have you don't a lift test with something really heavy. Just wondering if that would try to
upset the apple cart, so to speak. Looks great though. Heavy duty.
 
Is that splitter Homemade?
What type/kind moter is that????

Thanks
David
 
Is that splitter Homemade?
What type/kind moter is that????

Thanks
David

I got the splitter at a yardsale for $125, it had been outside, uncovered for years and was in tough shape. I cleaned it up and repainted, I was able to salvage the rolling splitter/beam and the cylinder. I re-powered with a 9HP Honda and a new 16gpm pump and valve. The original oil tank between the wheels was too small so I added the 15gal tank you see now. I put roughly a $1000 into it for parts (motor,pump,tank,valve and lines) and did the work myself - I feel its alot more splitter than the stuff available at Lowes/HD. I believe its a "Mighty Murc" splitter originally:hmm3grin2orange:.
 
Only problem I see is the hitch being on the wrong end. Sucks when you have to move the pile first to tow the splitter somewhere. Nice work! When do you add the the adjustable 4-way?
 
I like it. My buddy and I talked about designing a log lift when we built my splitter, but so far I get by pretty good with the tractor bucket. Not to mention, it took 3 months just to get the splitter up and running let alone engineering a lift as well. Having just finished that project I can appreciate all the time that goes into building something like this, and my hat's off to you.

I'm curious - how did you calculate the correct length of the pivot points to raise and lower the table? Or is it as simple as mocking up a mount for the cylinder on the bottom of the lift with the cylinder retracted and the lift gate on the ground? Then the cylinder raises the table as it extends... but how did you know you'd have enough extension to raise it to the proper level? I'm just curious about how you tackled this part of the design.
 
Nice work

hats off to ya! i helped my uncle rebuild his log splitter last winter, alot of work. we changed out the beam and had some R&D on the pusher plate, make sure that it is longer than it is tall, or it could bend and twist. ask me how i know! is that a grease zerk i see on the slide? well done, wish we built a log lift.:clap::clap::rock:
 
I like it. My buddy and I talked about designing a log lift when we built my splitter, but so far I get by pretty good with the tractor bucket. Not to mention, it took 3 months just to get the splitter up and running let alone engineering a lift as well. Having just finished that project I can appreciate all the time that goes into building something like this, and my hat's off to you.

I'm curious - how did you calculate the correct length of the pivot points to raise and lower the table? Or is it as simple as mocking up a mount for the cylinder on the bottom of the lift with the cylinder retracted and the lift gate on the ground? Then the cylinder raises the table as it extends... but how did you know you'd have enough extension to raise it to the proper level? I'm just curious about how you tackled this part of the design.

To calculate the pivot points I first constructed the lift and mounted it on a plywood bracket exactly like the steel one on the beam. I then mocked a plywood plate and mount and clamped it on the lift exactly where the cylinder would land the lift on the floor fully closed (I already had the 2"X 8" cyl). The only playing around was the length and angle of the pivot at the bottom of lift. I had a stick that was marked at 20 and 1/4" (lenghth of closed cyl at clevis centers) and a mark 8" from that. After having my wife raise the lift (about 100 times) I got my pivot point. Fully extended the lift goes above level just a few inches - the flow control valves make the action slow and steady with a very nice touch, even if the lever is fully thrown.
 
I don't get it. Back splitter up to the wood and start splitting and stacking.

Depends on your setup, and how you manage the wood. We might split a cord or more before stacking, just throwing
the splits out behind the machine. Our ram is on the rear, so we just pull the splitter ahead and continue throwing off
the rear. Everyone has their own system. This is a really great looking machine, but we would have to change how we
do things in order to make it work for us.
 
I don't get it. Back splitter up to the wood and start splitting and stacking.

With this set-up the splits will pile up around the pivot wheel and the hitch unless you split and toss all of them out of the way (not a problem if you are splitting and tossing right into the back of a truck).

By the looks of his work, the OP has the ability/tools to either add another hitch to the other side or make the one he has transferable. That way if he wanted to all he has to do his drive away from the pile.
 

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